luisito

In my printer there is no spacer between the pulley and the wall.

This is a picture of my printer: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ib80exwiiub3akc/rod1.jpg

I have found that the guide bar where the Y axis pulleys are mounted (the horizontal bar located at UM bottom) is being displaced to the left each time the Y axis moves. If I leave it alone, it displaces to the left about 6 mm. I can see it protruding on the left side!. Is there any way to stop this happening ?

Some months ago I upgraded my UM2 to UM2+ with the Upgrade Kit. Lately I have found that some parts print with a full displacement on the Y axis direction. Like in this picture: http://support.zortrax.com/problems-with-incomplete-prints-m200/ Please look at the picture number 6. "Layers Displacement on the X or Y Axis" The displacement is clean and across al the entire part, so I can figure out the problem is in the Y motor or the pulley/belt combination that attaches it to the upper Y axis. I have tried to tight the pulleys, which were actually too tight already. Pulleys do no wooble and look clean (apparently). I have noticed the Y motor was very hot while printing, at about 80C, while the X motor was about 65C. Obviously this difference depends on the part being printed but I wonder whether 80C is normal. The problem is random. I can print large parts without any problem and then print smaller parts that have the displacement. It happens more easily on parts that are wider than deeper. Is there any recommended way to fix this problem? Perhaps replacing pulleys or belts or even the motor? Any help is welcome. Luis.

All printers I know, with decent dual-extruder abilities (Zortrax, BCN3D, Tumaker, UM3,..) have the same price target, even higher than UM3. So price may be right. I can figure out UM people have been thinking a lot about, not only technical aspects, but commercial matters as well. BTW, rasputin, David Laserscanner was sold to HP. (and yes, it was/is a great product!).

Availability: November, for preorders made in October.

Is CURA support generation improved for UM3 ?. So far, automatic support in Cura is rather unusable. I usually add support by hand at the desgin stage, but having automatic support is nice when it is done properly (e.g. Zortrax printer).

Are common filament spools compatible with UM3? Is the spool tag mandatory? Besides this, i understand UM3 is not intended to print filaments that require frequent nozzle replacements or have special needs, like bronze, carbon,etc... Does that mean that people buying the UM3 will keep the UM2 just to perform the dirty work?. You guys who already own the UM3, would recommend to keep the 'old' UM2 ?.

It looks a lot like the Voladora-2 printer made in Spain. Two tilting nozzles, Linux controller board, ... Just about the same price. Only about two years later....

EECKHOUT, there *is* such upgrade. It just costs 3K+VAT .

Count on me as your robot hand to test anything you want on UM2+. I use S3D daily, although at 20% of its power .

He visto que es a las 16:30. T3dsland no dice nada más, sólo la hora. Por cierto, vaya sitio más pijo que se han buscado no? ;-) Sorry answer in castellano. A las 4 o 5? No decuerdo :DEs en http://www.theheroesclub.es/la-sede/ Yo estaré por alli. Lo que no se es si es con invitación. Supongo que Tr3sdland pondrá algún aviso pronto.

Where is the launch in Spain and what time ?

Yellowshark, limonene is used to disolve HIPS, which is another kind of support filament. And it takes hours to disolve as well.

Now that UM3 is coming, i have reviewed some videos about PVA. My question is: how much time takes it to remove PVA filament from the printed parts?. I have heard that it takes about 24h, depending on the amount of PVA. Is there any way to speed it up? Have seen some videos where ultrasonic cleaners are used.

Good point. IMO this new printer will not replace the existing UM2+. So you will not see any significant drop on UM2 prices. Probably UM wants to target a more professional audience with UM3, but you will still be able to purchase the UM2 and UMO.

I would say it sounds exactly like Zortrax Inventure printer, which is so expensive it is beyond amateur budgets. The word 'industry' appears on both Ultimaker and Zortrax when talking about this printer. Would bet not less than 4K Euros.

You can order here (although it is not cheap): https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/ Frederiekpascal, where did you order yours?

I did try the Buildtak surface some time ago. The adhesion to the printed parts is so strong that i accidentally broke the surface while removing a part. Theoretically this problem should not happen with the flex base unless the part gets really glued to the base. Buildtak sells flexplate as 'experimental'. Although The promotional video looks really promising. The experiment costs 150 Euros. I am glad there are volunteers to try it! :-) Keep us posted frederiekpascal.

Hi, does anyone have tried the new Builtdtak Flexplate ?. The idea is not new, but I believe is the first commercial solution. It looks promising. It solves two things: adhesion and easy removal all in one piece. However, it is pretty expensive.

Take a look at this project, it is a camera with lenses entirely made on a 3D printer! It has some interesting ideas about how to get a smooth finish on transparent parts. Although the author uses a resin printer, the process he explains to achieve optically clear lenses might be usable on fdm printed parts. http://amosdudley.com/weblog/SLO-Camera

I know brass is not the intended nozzle to print bronze. I printed only about 5 parts and then replaced it with a hardened steel nozzle. However, when I tried to use again the brass nozzle (0.4mm) i have been unable to clean it up. No way. I tried atomic pull several times without success. I can see the hole is closed with some remainings of bronze filament at the nozzle tip. Any recommended way to recover this nozzle ? Perhaps using some higher temps or something ? Luis.

Very nice piece!. It would be great if you have the time, to video-record all the process for us :-D BTW fantastic idea inserting the floating image inside the cube.

The proper way to fix that problem is placing a lock washer on both sides of the gear.

But is the um2+ upgrade compatible with um go ?