luisito

He visto que, aparte de que solo se puede comprar en Madrid (o pedir que lo manden a otra tienda de España), sale mas caro que pedirlo directamente a Ultimaker. O sea, si vives en España, es mejor hacer el pedido directamente a Ultimaker. Pero si me sale mas caro que la primera impresora que tuve !. Eso sí, no le veía tantos defectos a mi UM2, hasta que ha salido el upgrade. Dificilmente justificable este upgrade a este precio, en mi humilde opinión. Casi espero a que salga la UM3.

Thanks for your advice. I have found as well that setting extruder to 0.3 on Cura improves things a lot. And printing at 15mm/s. Anyway quality i get with this filament is below my minimum standards.

Yo puse dos tensores para evitar un problema parecido. En mi caso las correas estaban bastante flojas. Y no he vuelto a tener el problema. Tambien puede ocurrir una cosa parecida si usas el cable usb para manejar la impresora a mano, por ejemplo con el pronterface. El cabezal se da de cabeza contra las paredes sin que haya ningun final de carrera que lo pare. Esto me parecio un fallo de diseño bastante gordo. Jamas deberia poder ocurrir esto en un diseño bien hecho.

Si tienes tiempo imprime un par de cilindros de calibracion. Es ese cilindro que va aumentando la extrusion a medida que sube. Compara los dos cilindros impresos. Son iguales? A que nivel empieza a hacer grietas?.

I have tried the Colorfabb XT Clear filament. Until now I am getting disappointing results. :-( Major problem I have found is auto-adherence being very low. First layer sticks fine to the platform, using an adhesive, but any other layer on top does not adhere to the previous layer. I have tried different temperatures, from 200 to 230 (220 is recommended by Colorfabb). have tried with different layer thickness from 0,200 to 0,060. Colorfabb recommends 0,2 layers or above. Speed set from 30 to 40. Tested Infill, from 20% to 80%. All I get is a mess of filament over the first bottom layers as there is no adherence at all. Am I missing any factor ?

Creo que es importante mencionar que esas capas con grietas no solo salen por el tornillo Z sino que tambien salen si imprimes piezas grandes sin ningun medio que conserve la temperatura del entorno de la pieza, especialmente si se imprime con ABS, y sobre todo, si el infill de la pieza es alto, lo que provoca mas tension en la pieza. Si las grietas salen siempre en la misma altura es sin duda alguna el tornillo, bien que está sucio o sin grasa o, en casos mas raros que las guias de los lados tienen alguna muesca. La temperatura de la electronica no tiene por que causar ningún problema mientras esté dentro de los márgenes tolerables y esto está calibrado en fábrica en una UM2 y si no es asi es motivo de reparacion. Una grieta podria tambien producirse por un descenso súbito de la temperatura del nozzle, pero apareceria a cualquier altura. Por ultimo, las grietas aparecen la mayoria de las veces si el filamento no sale todo lo rápido que queremos, bien por una configuracion unadecuada de la velocidad/temperatura/calibre o porque el filamento se queda atascado o patina en el motor de arrastre. Esto se ve facilmente imprimiendo el cilindro de calibrado.

Para piezas como las de exin castillos o lego la gente del medio recomienda ABS frente a PLA porque el ABS es flexible y permite que las piezas encajen unas en otras. El PLA en general es muy poco flexible y se llega a deformar o incluso se casca, si lo doblas. Además, viendo tus piezas dudo que te queden mejor en PLA. Están muy bien. Felicidades!

Si te pasa con cualquier pieza el problema esta en el tornillo que esta en el fondo de la impresora. El que mueve la base en direccion vertical. Prueba a añadirle el lubricante que viene con la impresora. Si no da resultado a lo mejor tienes que limpiarlo y despues ponerle el lubricante.

Pretty nice but i dont like in the cloud storage. Btw, it requires 64bit os (Yes, i still work on 32bit!).

Well, I have read that is not plain water, it is a "water-based-fluid". And takes "several hours" for removal process to complete. Yes, the printing volume 13x13cm is definitely small. Looks like an alternative FDM printer for customers of SLA printers.

Apparently the new Zortrax Inventure printer is able to print abs and support filament from the same extruder!. So it should not have the problem of one extruder smashing on the layers printed by the other extruder, as there is just one of them. Besides this, the support material disolves in plain water. Not much information still on Zortrax site at the moment, athough they are already taking orders. Does anyone know more about this printer ? (other than what is published on their site).

I have used DavidLaserScanner structured scanner software, using a cheap projector beam, and it works very well. Very smooth surfaces and plenty of detail. You can check it for free, although free version does not allow to save scannings. To scan a full body you will need a pretty large setup, a full room. You can try first with small objects and go further if you are satisfied with the results. You can check the DavidLaserScanner site forum to see some amazing results. Be aware that structured scanner does not work very well with color patches.

Is there any expected release date for the kit ?.

Well, the PSU that comes with the UM2 is Made in China.

Very interesting to build power supply enclosures.

Okay. Last offer, 1000 Euros plus shipping.

I am selling my UM2. It is in working state. No faults known. I added the Roberts feeder but i will include the original feeder as well. I would prefer you pick the printer at my place, because i do not have the original box anymore. However, I will try to package it well anyway. wIll sell to any EU country, except Italy. Price: 1500 Euros, plus shipping. Printer will be delivered from Spain.

So, does that news mean Ultimaker is not going to release any new nozzle by themselves ?. As the dual-nozzle head is now out of question I would hope Ultimaker would offer some upgrade. It seems we will never see that upgrade.

Demasiado lejos.

Donde vives exactamente en España?

I am trying to print an object that is a rctangle shaped plate 100mmx15mm. Thickness is 1.5mm. That plate is intended to replace a metalic plate so, it should be stiff. It might bend somewhat but not too much. I have tried pla, abs, hips, xt, ... All of them give a plate that is easily bent, non usable for replacing the metallic part. Which would be in your opinion, the best filament to print a part like this with maximum stiffness?.

I gave up trying to achieve more than 3mm3. I am using Robert's feeder and this is a huge improvement to prevent filament jamming, but does not help with extrusion, no matter what temperatures i use. The speed cylinder test fails above 3mm3. So i print everything very slowly. :-(

He visitado una de estas tiendas y hevisto la Witbox y alguna reprap. No me he fijado en que vendan Ultimaker. Hasta ahora pensaba que estas tiendas eran franquicias de BQ.

This feature is commonly used to set the width account for extruded material being wider than the nozzle itself, wich is common for most printer/filament setups. Setting the filament width lower than the nozzle itself would tight the steps between lines, which would produce the effect you are showing in this picture. I would expect to have some overextruding with this setting but it seems it is not the case. What i cannot understand is why this setting can add any detail to the part. Do you have any more detailed picture ?

1. I am able to press 'Save to SD' many times. All saving tasks launch at the same time!.(up to 9 tasks!). It hangs. 2. When I select 'Center on platform' over a multi-object STL, one of the objects disappears. 3. And I still get the message "overriding settings". (BTW, the firmware version I see on printer is 15.04, April 2015).