0235

I'm sure we have all done it, but this is the first time i had to rescue a print, the very tall narrow support fell over, and thankfully a bit of bluetac sorted it right out!

ok ok, so yes i am currently logged in after having to do some workaround by clicking "reply" to a post, and then it prompted me to log in. but from the forum home page, when not logged in, where is the button to log in to the forum? am i missing something here? Many thanks.

Turns out a screw in the top was completely loose. this cause the Black Y shaped assembly to be able to lift, causing a gap between the bowden tube and the teflon coupler, and then soft fillament would flow into that gap. so strange how such a small thing can cuase so many problems. dissasembled the whole top to get that screw back on, and just printed off a very intricate piece (which i have printed many many times) and its probably the best quality one i have ever done!

I replaced the entire nozzel asembly just over a year ago, and have barely run 4 spools of colourfabb material through it. when i first changed it everything seemed ok, printed only a few things (im a very light user) but in the recent 6 months it constantly jams and it happens inthe same way, somewho the plastic finds a way between the bottom of the bowden tube, and inside the hot end isolator coupler. But i will have a closer look at the coupler, and maybe even the brown PEEK part. the bowden tube is also quite worn out near the nozzel end (do to constantly being removed). i have heard that bowden tube accuracy is vital for good prints, do you think this could be another reason for having issues?

Hello All, i have an ultimaker original V1 I keep running into an issue with my printer where it will get part way through a print, and then jam up. i have attached a picture of waht happens to the fillament inside the nozzel, and i have to keep removing the bowden tube from the heated nozzel every single time it jams. im on my 5th attempt today of a piece that should be simple. is there any advice on how to fix this?

so adding to my list of "things taht wil lget you on a government watch list" was this. its for a paintball / airsoft toy gun, which i wanted to be able to attach a 14mm RIS rail to its from a 3D scanned part, i then added in a 14mm picatinny rail, and printed it, with no support!! 0.25mm layer height in colorfabb olive and took about 5 hours! only a tiny bit of post processing, barely any bad overhanging areas! the only issue i ran into was trying to use colourfabb filament kept in bad conditions taht was 3 years old! (that was when they still shipped their fillament in unprinted brown boxes on black spools!!) as a side note, what are the laws / rules regarding taking 3D scanned items, modifying them (but for the most part leaving the main form the same) and then uploading it online for free? I appologies for the bad pictures. a combination of poor lighting, poor photographing area, awful phone, and having very shakey hands leads to me never being able to take good photos! The grey is some car primer, the 3d scanner did not like shiny black palstic and this is the printed part Before and after! and some possible uses

so i notice on quite a few videos of the UM2 (and its variants) it extrudes a nice little pile of fillament before it starts printing, off in one corner. now this looks super useful. with my ultimaker original (with loads of upgrades) i have to do this manually, and sometimes forget to paus a print while its pre-heating. what setting is it in Cura to enable this? and is it a setting that was still present waaaay back in 14.07? many thanks!

well i bit and went ahead with the official heated bed upgrade, and boy do i regret not buying it earlier! wow! prints come out looking lovely, no more getting the pliers out to remove stubborn items from the blue tape (though the option for blue tape when you need somthing not shiny is still there) the bed is so level, and really easy to modify now. just love it!

this is my week so far! "everyone loves a slinky!!" well not really. thats 3 spools of colorfabb all completely knackered right to the core!

I used to use 3M 3434 Scotch tape. its designed for car body spraying. i found my prints werent sticking, so before each print i would use some medical rubbing alcohol on the blue tape, just a quick wipe over about a minute before the print started. this worked a treat, however i found that the print would stick to the tape, but then teh tape would peel off. then i discovered 3434. this sticks well. REALLY well. the actual surface of the tape isnta s good as the normal blue tape to stick to, but with the rubbing alcohol method i rarely had any prints lift off after that, and when they did, it was due to my neglect. have to say, i broke more prints trying to get them off than had currl up!

Hello All! so as i am in the process of giving my ultimaker origonal a serious overhaul (dual fans, heated bed, enclosed build chanmer and multiple new parts) I realise that to print some of these new parts (espcially parts that will be subjected to a lot of heat or strain and pressure) its best to print them in ABS so as someone who has never used ABS, only using PLA, what is the best method to 1) prepare your printer to print ABS, so purging it etc 2) best wat to get ABS parts to print and stick to your heated bed 3) getting my printer back to printing PLA also any advice on characteristics of ABS, i have heard it can smell quite nast. i keep my 3D printer in a cupboard in the middle of my house, could this cause any problems? Many thanks everyone!

so a little bit of a first world problem (a bit like the air con in here is too cold!!!) but the power suply brick that comes with the heated bed is so much bigger, and the actual cable is so so so much shorter, i can no longer get the power to reach to the printer. And when the power brick is on the floor, even then the cable is too short to reach the printer. why such a short cable? do people keep their printers on the floor? im using standard height kitchen counters.

some go from putting blank 9mm rounds in that go bang, some are more like fireworks, some are like fireworks with dried peas in them that scatter everywhere (for bio degradable-ness) and others are very similar to the 40mm grenade, so filled with gas, and then spray bb's out. of course these cant be thrown at people, being big and heavy, most sites say either drop them through a window or doorway, or roll them across the floor

they are small gas canisters which you put gas in, and then anywhere from 80 - 200 bb's in the front. when the button on the back is hit, it releases the gas shooting all the bb's out. so nothing flies out the end, just LOADS of little plastic pinging everyhwre with a very assertive pop! still, its so far in the early stage, and while individual components work well, it all needs loads of tweaking to get working. i was inspired by someone who made an airsoft China lake grenade launcher, all by hand. i was blown away!

how can we update materials, the "edit" button is greyed out when i have the PLA profile selected in the material preferences many thanks

So becuse i have brought a second identical fan to what i already have it should be ok, iw ill just need to do some tweaks when i upgrade my marlin firmware? I also saw someone on thingiverse that due tothe extra power draw, you may need to add a heatsink to the "12V voltage regulator on the UM motherboard" anyone know where this is? Im at a complete loss when electronics involve more than soldering model railway power conections

Yeah but please explain that they give you quite the week to adjust them. 24V fans can handle better 19V than 12V fans. Also not all 12V fans will work, some when connected to 19V will just die. Personally I would install cut down voltage if you want to plug 12V on a umo. Or just 24V fans Also it's very important than the fans have pwm, not all the sellers list that spec. If I can give you a hand here I am. my point was my ultimaker was already on a single 12V fan, not a 24 v one,and works perfectly fine.

i guess 2 things (one is very functional, the other not quite so much (probaly borderline on some community guidelines, so feel free to remove it!)) just a pump action 4 shot airsoft 40mm grenade launcher, like you do... thats 1.6kg of PLA and 124 hours worth of printing, and that prototype V1 the CAD work, all done in sketchup (and only 2 of the 46 components were "bad" when it came to slicing, with sketchup's famouse holes) Comparison with a Tavor 21 (if you know how big one of them is!) Multiple internal components Multiple internal components and becuse that may be a bit too extreme, lets flip it back round to the more boring, a phone case. was (was) enjoying pokémon GO so made a phone case to reflect that joy. thankfully the phone case is still providing joy!

im still flomoxed by the wiring. after taking my fan off my ultimaker origonal, the fan that came with the ultimaker and that works perfectly fine, it says 12V on it, but everyone is saying you need 24V fans?

Thanks for all the responses everyone, wow! The fact that the z stage is more stable, and bed leveling is easier, is a plus all by itself, i have many problems with having to re-level every few prints, and i suspected the heated bed would be more stable. i also guess the 3 points would be much easier. for too long i adjust the screw at the front right, and the rear left moves! the idea that the base of the print comes out much smoother is very beneficial for model making, and sticking two halves of parts together. wow i have so much stuff to do on my list, heated bed, the double fan upgrade recently posted, a heated enclosure (as my old one is now obsolete due to bigger spools) and soundproof enclosure (i hate being a noisy neighbour!) / want to move into 3D hubs!

So for a few years now i have been printing on blue tape, and using medical alcohol to help prints stay stuck down. I keep eying up the heated bed upgrade, but for the price, i could buy an entire cheap 3D printer from Ebay! so what is the benefit of a heated bed upgrade, i dont use my printer too much, but is a heated bed really enough of a step up to bite. my main reason for wanting it is actually having a better print bed, as my original print bed has slipped a little bit, making leveling it tricky (the screws on the front are as loose as they can go, while at the back they are super tight!) So my question is very vague, and im really trying to get back into 3D printing, so is the heated bed worth it?

Super! i actually came here after some time to see if anyone had a decent dual fan upgrade for the original utimaker, mainly due to the odd fan voltage. many thanks

So probably 5th attempt at this piece (probably bad deisgn, i should check) but witout fail it always gets stuck, and then the filament ends up grinfding, cant go back, cant go forwards. picture of teh fillament when iremove the bowden tube. i cant imagine why there would be a gap, i always push it down as much as possible. other images is another almost identical piece which printed just fine. will do the brim and the first layer, but always get stuck on the second layer.

it worked, a little over schedule (15 hours) but it looks great. shame its a mechanical piece, not aesthetic so will need tweaking. ran into some issues that looked like underextrusion high up, but turnedf out it was just thin bits of the print wobbling as the print head passed over them. the next version will have those bits smaller and lower down.

holy! wow! well they sure ave some strict guidelines for what they sell! so could you say were were all apple product beta testers? haha! congratulatuons UM, thats a pretty monumental achivement