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meduza last won the day on May 15 2018

meduza had the most liked content!

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  1. I've been using Sorbothane viscoelastic rubber half-spheres as dampening for my Ultimakers for years, and it really does reduce the noise quite a bit, with my own designed feets: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dampening-feets-for-ultimaker-2-3
  2. The 2Go is a awesome printer, one of the best printers i have ever tried, since it is extremely rigid and prints beautifully. Unfortunately the market shifted to prioritize size highly, and the 2Go's low price-to-size ratio ment that it probably sold quite low numbers compared to the other printers.
  3. You won't find many materials that molten PLA sticks to as little as PTFE (TFM is a modified PTFE), since it is one of the most non-stick materials known to man, and it also has some of the best high-temperature properties. The reason for hunting other materials is mostly about not having the wear problems that PTFE experiences. To be honest though, as long as you are printing sub-250C materials, the TFM + rigid spacer that was introduced with the UM2+ lasts so long that i honestly don't see this as a problem anymore. The old PTFE + spring could deteriorate in just a few hundred hours, but
  4. The I2K is made out of Tecasint 2000 series material (guess where the 2k in the name origins), and that material is rated for 280-300C long-term usage (depending on exact version) and up to 350C short-term. Tecasint 2000 is a Polymide and other materials in the same family is for example Vespel. It is about as expensive as PBI, but quite a bit easier to machine. PBI is a higher performance plastic, that can be used at 345C long-term and up to over 500C short-term, but it is harder to machine. I have a early generation I2K somewhere, i took it out because of too many feeding problems w
  5. @drayson Currently we just use a UMO+ profile where we change the build height, since this is the easiest way to do it and we have lots of different people using the printer.
  6. Yes, the 2+ feeder is way better than the old black UM2 feeder.
  7. The Ultimaker TPU95A does work very well for me, and it is more flexible than pp.
  8. If you want to coat PLA, avoid laquers or paints that use ethyl acetate as the solvent, since this will react a bit with the PLA, this is possibly the source of the white "fog" you are seeing. Acetone can also cause a similar reaction, and Dichloromethane actually melts PLA. It seems like the Krylon UV Resistant Clear coat spray is 41% acetone, and Crystal Kote is 10-30% Dichloromethane, so these are not really good alternatives. You can try the Krylon Low-Odour or the Krylon Kamar Varnish, from the MSDS it seems like these could work. Or first coat the PLA
  9. Yay, i can actually log in again, i have not been able to browse the forum logged in at all since the move to Amazon earlier this year... :/
  10. @mariuszem: The sound level was actually one of the main reasons for me to design this with a belt drive instead of spur gears :-) And yes, the UMO feeder is really noisy on retracts.
  11. We were sketching up different concepts, it started with a servo, but after a while we were more talking about putting neodymium magnets in the two bodies and putting a lever-construction it could run against a stop to push the head to either side, and to put it in the middle position it just pushed a shorter distance against the stop. And yes, the three nozzles was for support + small + large nozzle or support + 2 colors It was supposed to go on this modded ultimaker:
  12. @johank and i were discussing a similar concept a bunch of years ago (just realized the pictures are from 2014...) The main difference is that we did plan for the cold end to be water cooled to remove the heatsinks and fans and allow it to work inside a heated chamber.
  13. Yes, CF filled nylons are pretty nice and very strong, not nearly as stiff as the XT-CF20 tough, so if @kc-li mostly is hunting for stiffness, the XT-CF20 is the best bet.
  14. @kmanstudios: Yes, the CF means carbon fibre, and it is extremely abrasive, it kills a brass nozzle in just a few hundred grams. This is the difference after 300 grams, the nozzle is just trash by this point. The best solution is to get a ruby tipped nozzle like The Olsson Ruby, but if you only print quite limited amounts and want to spend less you can also go with a hardened steel nozzle.
  15. If it is stiffness (not necessarily the same thing as strength) you have a demand for, you should look at a CF filled like the Colorfabb XT-CF20, it is insanely stiff (6.2GPa in Flexural Modulus) compared to Polycarbonate that "just" is about 2GPa. http://colorfabb.com/files/TDS-carbon-en.pdf
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