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alanoo

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  1. Can confirm it's counter clockwise... but honestly the spring is so strong... I doubt it could make any difference. Also even with the spring at the loosest setting, the bearing is already making contact with the casing There may be some adjustment/play in the 4 bolts themselves and you may sort this out slightly playing with this, but I didn't check that. I dismantled mine for the horrible squeaking noise I had, and can confirm the motor will fall... but was very easy to refit
  2. Ok so not solved... It always comes back soon or later. During a print I can slighlty unbolt the bolts and it will go away for something like an hour, then it comes back, if I rebolt those slightly more... then again it goes away for some time and comes back. I guess it somewhat proves there's some inadequate friction in the extruder...
  3. I removed the 4 bolts from the exturder and rescrewed with slightly more torque, then removed the filament and refitted it... looks gone for now :shock:
  4. Two 10 hours prints done, still there :( Nop, doesn't help... Strangely enough it doesn't do it all the time, only at certain moments... maybe related to the angle of the motor shaft itself ?
  5. I'll make a video, but I have to say... it will be scary :mrgreen:
  6. I have an horrible squeaking noise in my UM2 since my last print, I remembered there was a topic about it on the forum but unfortunately my noise hasn't the same origin, it's the filament feeder that is horribly crying when retracting the filament. A print is in progress now, will dig in to it when it'll be finished.
  7. 6th print ever on my UM2, first longish print (took around 9 hours) Printed quite fast, 0.1mm layers at 70mm/s, infill 25% at 130mm/s, UM PLA blue at 230°C, bed at 40°C
  8. I noticed Daid posted the "printable" version design of it on youmagine ? Should be worth a try to print if it's somewhat spring or tension related in your case ?
  9. Interesting, I now understood it is quite a precise calibration stuff, and the margin is not that big between the "impossible to push through the nozzle" to the "bad quality first layer" level. I'm using a thin piece of paper (like a cash machine receipt of any kind of similar thermal print paper), which seems to do the work fine for me. I doubt I will ever be able to be that precise without it.
  10. As a reference and as a complete 3d printer newbie (even if I have read the entire 13 pages, just for my personal knowledge) : Third print ever on my UM2 received this week (UM PLA blue, 230°C, 50°C bed, filament on the stock reel holder) Almost perfect... just so anyone lurking here could see these printers could definitely be good almost out of the box.
  11. That was indeed my other suspect as I wasn't confident in my bed levelling... but the other way around as I calibrated with quite a bit of resistance on the paper. Will retry it tonight. Thanks for that, and will definitely try the robot tonight
  12. Just got my UM2 yesterday, with the worst issue ever ! I only have the caltest on the SD card and not the ultimaker robot file :( On a more serious note, the X limit switch wasn't activating, so had to rebolt it correctly (quick fix); and I've got issues with first layers which I assume look as underextrusion. The rest of this minicaltest did print well as you can see... but I wasn't able to print anything else, the first layers wouldn't stick to the glass and look the same as the ones on this part, even with the glue (UM blue PLA, auto "PLA" settings). Will try a few more things tonight, but would be grateful if you could confirm that it's typically underextrusion ? It's my first printer, but I found the PLA very stiff and with all the stuff I read here about the UM2 extruder being a bit weak, that could be it... PS : still... would be happy to have the original SD card version of the robot gcode
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