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Everything posted by stu_le_brew

  1. I would first check the bed is leveled correctly, you need to provide more info, what is your printer, nozzle size, temperatures, does it stick in some parts to the bed but not for the whole model ??? A picture could help a lot with diagnosis too S
  2. Well it printed fine on my trusty old UM2 So I would encourage checking all of the fans at the hot end good luck S
  3. It would help to know some of the slicer settings and what the material is, I assume from the file name that you are using an UM2 ? it would be worth checking the fan at the back of the print head is working As you attached the model, I have downloaded it and on my system it seems Ok when sliced, so I am printing it , will get back to you with any comments.
  4. Some thing I learned of a long time ago was to pull up the white part of tube clip while pushing down the tube, I use a pair of tweezers to do this - it ensures the tube is securely fixed to the tube, then I put the blue clip under the white part I have not had the tube come out on my UM2 for years good luck
  5. This can often be improved by dropping the print temperature a few degrees, hard to say how many as it will vary by materiel and sometimes even different colors of the same materiel type
  6. It would be helpful to know what setting you are using, does the printer work OK with other prints i.e. less than 100% infill ? looks like gross under extrusion to me
  7. you need to pay attention to the nozzle tip in particular, I bought from Solex 3D a range of ruby tipped nozzles ( I have an UM2 ++) that work well for abrasive materiel, that would include metals (like bronze fill) and even woodfil, you need to increase the feed rate and temperature and maybe reduce retraction - that is to say keep the flow moving or the nozzle can get blocked good luck
  8. you could also search for the assembly manual exact title of the version I have is "um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf" its 14.5Mbytes so probably too big to be emailed. I searched on google and it found it on Github, also attached to this msg It is a very handy reference to have around, its helped me out on several occasions. um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf
  9. you could try the option in Cura (under Shell coomand) of "Enable Ironing"
  10. Question for you - where are you located in the world I bought (very long lead time) from China a big quantity of grub screws if you are in Europe I could maybe post some to you ? to get you running if its urgent ???
  11. I am pretty sure they are M3 grub-screws, there are several types the ones you want have a flat top not a pointed top Recommend to look all over inside the printer to see if they have dropped out but they are very small
  12. my pleasure good printing S
  13. The movement shown in your second video is absolutely NOT correct there should be no movement at all you need to loosen the pulley an move outwards to prevent this movement
  14. If the belt is rubbing on the wires then they need to be pushed back out of the way, but the rubbing would surely effect all of the print. Its very simple to remove the limit switch (just two screws on the side) and push the wires back looking at the print it would seem to me to be a problem that starts at a height as the first third of the big print looks OK my first thought to solve the print problem would be to check all of the rods are correctly lubricated, then check none of the rods are loose and can move side to side or back to front good luck
  15. I am sure you will buy what you choose to but the original feeder is not (in my opinion) your best choice, the performance of the Bondtech is much superior
  16. no doubt in my mind the correct nozzle is an Ruby tipped one from 3DSolex its called an "Everlast Ruby" available in a range of sizes Not sure where you are located but it is distribute widely (all over the world) You may need to increase the flow rate and temperature to get best performance
  17. It would be worth taking the Bowden tube off and trying with a piece of filament if the tube feels rough. In the five years I have had my UM2 I have changed the tube at least once, some times in a desperate attempt to solve an extrusion problem. You have changed all of the other elements in the materiel feed chain good luck
  18. It may be worth trying a smaller nozzle like a 0.25 for instance, sure it will take longer but it could make the difference
  19. I would not worry too much if you can't get it out, I lost one for a long time and replaced it only to rediscover it (inside the print head assembly) months later when I had to disassemble the print head. I do not think there is any risk of it melting
  20. Question are the materials from the same manufacturer ? The blue on is showing under extrusion, maybe try increase the print temperature
  21. I would very much recommend that you contact Carl at 3DSolex directly, his reputation is very high and has always given me excellent service with any problems.
  22. It could be that one of the pulleys that the belts are attached to is able to slip slightly on the metal rods, worth checking that they are all super tight good luck
  23. My pleasure by the way I am also big fan of the Bondtech feeder (I have the QR version), its great to concentrate on design and not printer maintenance
  24. you could try cutting say a centimetre from the end of the bowden tube which should give the white plastic part a better grip
  25. +1 for positive comments on 3dsolex, I have not used a nozzle from Ultimaker for years, especially useful are the ruby/sapphire tipped nozzles for abrasive materials
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