stu_le_brew
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Posts posted by stu_le_brew
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It would also be helpful to know the details of your machine does it have the original UM2 black filament feeder, what is the extruder print head - the original 0.4mm or a more modern interchangeable nozzle
what material are you printing with ?
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I would recommend checking the SDCard - and maybe trying a different one
In the past I have had a similar problem
good luck
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I would be interested to know some of the setting you have used - print head temperature and what material you are using
does the image show the first layer ? if not does the first layer print well ?
S
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I can't remember exactly where I bought them but a quick search for "Micro Limit Switch Lever Arm" on Amazon (FR in my case as I live in France) brought up lots of options, but you will need to do some soldering - which is not so difficult !
just a s a mater of interest which country are you in ?
S
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Hi
Its not a very big job to replace the micro limit switch, it is a switch that will over a long period wear as in maybe a poor connection inside. The switches work in one of two modes always open or always closed so if the controller was getting an strange signal it will fail, to protect the machine from damage.
I am not sure if such a part is available from an UM supplier but I have replaced one of the other limit switches and they are very inexpensive to buy, I think I bought a pack of ten online
good luck
S
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Firstly you should know that the fans are both 12 Volt wired in series (i.e. the power goes through one then continues through the second) so they have a 24Volt supply from the motherboard
Above the print hear there is a join which can be subject to a lot of movement and often can cause breaks in one of the connections so double check here first - even moving the cables can make the fans work
most of the problems I have had with my UM2 (much modified) have been problems with those fans
good luck
S
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The first design project I used my UM2 for was a replacement outside swimming pool skimmer flap so exposed to sun wate and pool chemical's, after five years I chose to reprint and replace mainly because of alge build-up inside the print (in the spaces made because of infil during printing).
The material I used is just normal PLA
good luck with your choice of materials
S
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I would check the output from the power supply with a voltmeter to the plug for the printer
S
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a cold pull is usually done with whatever filament you have been using, so briefly you remove the Bowden tube, heat the head to higher than usual temp, hand push filament through the nozzle, set the temperature to a low temp (for PLA about 95degrees), then pull out the filament - it should remove any stuck filament from inside the nozzle.
It can be helpful to use a different color filament for this process as you may then see the removed stuck filament
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I would guess that the nozzle needs cleaning, I would try a cold pull of the nozzle
good luck
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Looks like a bed leveling issue to me, my suggestion would be to try re-leveling the bed
Good luck
You could also try moving the part to a different place on the bed
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I would try copying the files on to your computer and then re formatting the SD card, return the files to the SD and try again, I have had similar problems which the above resolved
Good luck, also for the business too
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an important place to start is to let every one here ( who might be interested in buying your printer) where you are located n the world !!!
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hope it stays fixed
good luck
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just wondered which extruder feeder your UM2 has - is it white or black, black being the older and weaker in terms of torque
The mid position is usually correct for either feeder.
Just for your info I have been using a Bondtech geared extruder feeder form many years with some really good results, It was first available before Ultimaker came out with the upgrade to the white feeder. I would never go back
On 7/10/2022 at 2:22 PM, SlinkySlonkyWoffle said:I did something similar to this yesterday, with a wire thin enough to fit through the nozzle; after removing the bowden tube i could get a big chunk of insanely hard PLA out of there, probably filled with contaminations. Tho it didnt help much in the end...
Ill try the cold pull once today, and see how it goes!in my first reply I did say to use filament to clean the inside of the nozzle, as any contamination inside the nozzle will stick to filament and be pulled out
I would not use any metal inside the nozzle personally
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I think the likely cause is some small blockage or constriction in the print head, so you should try cleaning the nozzle using a length filament and by heating the print head (maybe higher than normal -even up to 230 degrees) then allow the head to drop just below 100 and pull out the filament - this usually removes any constriction, you may want to do this more than once.
good luck
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I would first check the bed is leveled correctly,
you need to provide more info, what is your printer, nozzle size, temperatures, does it stick in some parts to the bed but not for the whole model ???
A picture could help a lot with diagnosis too
S
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Well it printed fine on my trusty old UM2
So I would encourage checking all of the fans at the hot end
good luck
S
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It would help to know some of the slicer settings and what the material is, I assume from the file name that you are using an UM2 ?
it would be worth checking the fan at the back of the print head is working
As you attached the model, I have downloaded it and on my system it seems Ok when sliced, so I am printing it , will get back to you with any comments.
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Some thing I learned of a long time ago was to pull up the white part of tube clip while pushing down the tube, I use a pair of tweezers to do this - it ensures the tube is securely fixed to the tube, then I put the blue clip under the white part
I have not had the tube come out on my UM2 for years
good luck
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This can often be improved by dropping the print temperature a few degrees, hard to say how many as it will vary by materiel and sometimes even different colors of the same materiel type
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It would be helpful to know what setting you are using, does the printer work OK with other prints i.e. less than 100% infill ?
looks like gross under extrusion to me
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you need to pay attention to the nozzle tip in particular, I bought from Solex 3D a range of ruby tipped nozzles ( I have an UM2 ++) that work well for abrasive materiel, that would include metals (like bronze fill) and even woodfil, you need to increase the feed rate and temperature and maybe reduce retraction - that is to say keep the flow moving or the nozzle can get blocked
good luck
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you could also search for the assembly manual exact title of the version I have is "um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf" its 14.5Mbytes so probably too big to be emailed. I searched on google and it found it on Github, also attached to this msg
It is a very handy reference to have around, its helped me out on several occasions.
Layer Problem
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
There is a problem with the materiel getting to the hot end could be caused by many different problems, below in order I would check:-
1. inside the feeder check that the pulley(s) are clean and remove any debris
2. at the hot end do a cold pull to clean the inside of the nozzle - that is manually heat the nozzle to a high temp say 220 degrees and move the filament to see it flowing, then the let it cool to about 95 degrees and manually pull the material out of the nozzle and inspect the removed filament
3. check the sate of the Teflon coupler above the nozzle, the internal hole should be round - you will need to disassemble the whole print head to access this
4. check the bowden tube lets the filament move smoothly through it
good luck
maybe you could post a picture of the filament feeder at the back it could help knowing which one you have a black one (oigional on UM2) or a white one more modern