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stu_le_brew

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Posts posted by stu_le_brew

  1. Yes its the black part on the back of the machine

    I have three different models of feeder that I have printed, in fact today I installed one I printed some time ago, I am currently printing my first hand from E-Nable which is about 20+ hour of printing. I had on very large part fail so I decided to changed to the new design extruder and its working like a dream http://www.youmagine.com/designs/2904 the belts give that extra push to the filament.

    There are many other designs out there that people swear by too, search youmagine

     

  2. Hi

    I can only give you my opinion, I have six reels of UM and six reels of Colorfabb (plus one box of colour samples from Colorfabb)

    My worst/most problematic is UM clear PLA (it keeps blocking the print head), the rest all print with their own set of specific parameters. My favourites are ColorFabb XT (clear) and Bronzefill, also UM gold, perl-white and silver-grey

    I have not tried Faberdashery, the lack of a reel to me is a waste of my time

    My next filament list is Toulman Nylon when funds allow

    hope that helps

     

  3. your video is a really good piece of work , I am sure it will help many people.

    Some times you just have to take the whole head apart though, my first time was for a blockage inside the Teflon coupler, eventually I had to replace the coupler as it had become very distorted

     

  4. there are a few points to look out for:-

    when you remove the last of the four screw on the top of the print head make sure you support the bottom as it will drop down

    I usually disconnect the back fan, the connector is just inside the flexible black cable cover

    After you open the aluminium blocks you should be able to remove the Teflon coupler, but if it doesn't come out easily you need to undo the stainless part (it has holes all round it) if it's tight then heat the head up you will need some small pliers to hold it

    It may be necessary to clean the inside of the Teflon coupler if its blocked, you could try a small bore drill, but take care its quite soft

    Then onto cleaning the inside of the head, I would heat it first, I have used fine tweezers or even a small drill to remove whatever is in there

    Other users may have additional thoughts, this worked for me yesterday with a blockage of UM clear PLA, I have since done three successful bronzefill prints today

     

    hope this helps

    bon courage/good luck

     

     

  5. have you tried removal of the bowden tube at the printhead end (heat the print head first) then feeding some filament down into the print head - this usually clears any blockage for me.

    If this does not work you will have to strip down the whole head to get access to the print head itself, its more likely in my opinion then the blockage is between the end of the bowden tube and the print head

     

  6. I agree with you Nallath, the 3D printer situation reminds me of the first LaserJet being delivered to our office (circa early 80's) the whole office stopped work to look at it, then the first job was to make a cable to get it to work which took hours.

    and by the way I worked for Hewlett Packard at the time ! so you would thing we could sort it quickly

     

  7. Some initial questions occur to me

     

    • Have you tried printing anything after this failure, the print head may look normal but that may not be so.
    • what filament feeder are you using
    • also what are you using for the filament spool holder
    • are you using any support structure in Cura

    S

     

  8. ......

    I need the strength of ABS so will also try the XT as an alternative. It is most usefull to know what you have experianced. Though the bio degrading property of PLA is often shown as an advantage, it concernes me that I could be supplying PLA products that disintigrate within a couple of years. As well as the strength, this is another reason for me to stay away from PLA.

    Thanks again.

    Nick

     

    Hi Nick,

    one of my first prints with my UM2 was a pool skimmer in clear PLA (from Ultimaker) I have since re printed with clear ColorFabb XT. The first skimmer was in the pool for about three month and I can see no sign of any degradation

    so I do not know how long it takes for it to degrade - hope that helps you a bit

    S

     

  9. That's awesome. Do they have the collet's too?

    I think there should be a pinned topic on parts sources....

    Here's the aliexpress one:

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-D-printer-accessory-Ultimaker-White-bowden-tube-clamp-Blue-horse-shoe-top-quality-free-shipping/1631656234.html

    the same seller has several other Ultimaker parts

     

    I have ordered and received a pack of these collets from China,used one last week, works very well, significantly better than the old (worn) UM original collet

    Illuminarti - McMaster will not ship to Europe so china (with free postage) is a good option

     

  10. Hi Merardo,

    The feeder I use (as uploaded by Daid of Ultimaker) is https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-feeder-printable it is more substantial than the production model, it is not prone to problems that can be caused by tightening the screws too much.

    I changed to this design as I had noticed an occasional problem caused by part of the plastic inside the feeder that can be bent and occasionally touch the bearing and I think cause random under extrusion (see picture below), this is a result of when changing the filament that is to say its the new filament being inserted that can bend this plastic.

    UM Extruder

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ctoc03fntlj80fy/UM%20Extruder.jpg?dl=0

    All of my printing is of a high quality now

    good luck

     

  11. Hi Sander

    mine is a UM2, just updated profile too.

    One other change I made when installing the replacement filament feeder is that I moved the gear on the stepper motor slightly closer to the motor (maybe 3mm) it could be that this was also a factor in my improvements.

    The first time I tried to use flexible I did adjust the tension up high but ended up with a blockage of filament inside the extruder feeder. so slacked off back to normal and all works perfectly.

    EDIT: Just tried this morning with some flexible and now remember the temp is actually 225ºC, anything less and the extrusion is 'bloby'

     

  12. I have just used Flexible PLA (from Ultimaker) without oil and at 210ºC[edit gr: 225C see below], print speed 50mm/s and normal tension on the feeder.

    The only thing that is a bit different is the feeder I am using is one that Daid uploaded recently, it was the last model before the mass production one I think. I find it to be much more rigid. Everything prints well using it even bronze fill from ColorFabb with standard tension too !

     

  13. To complete my story, my order from Ultimaker arrived today, so one day longer than my order from the other side of the world, and four times the price !!!

    I am so impressed with the performance of the bowden tube and also the replacement teflon print head spacer (also from the same site in China) - I have no plans to change them yet with the Ultimaker parts - my machine is performing better than ever

     

  14. I have recently ordered parts from both Ultimaker and a site on AliExpress (which is in China) on the same day 24 July, prices for a bowden tube:-

    from Ultimaker €15,00 + VAT 21.0% + €6,53 + Shipping Order Total €37,62

    from AliExpress (it only comes with one clamp and collet) € 8,58 with free delivery !

    Well the bowden tube arrived from China today and is currently installed and printing VERY well, unfortunately the same thing from Ultimaker has yet to arrive So much for DHL.

    I do know where it is (in Toulouse) thanks to the tracking of DHL- but it is not here !

    To be totally fare, I started the process of ordering parts from Ultimaker on the same day as I ordered from AliExpress but Ultimaker takes so long to process an order it feels like its all done manually !

     

  15. I am very pleased to announce I have just joined the 10mm3/s club - al last !! (only a tiny bit of under extrusion at 10mm3/s - but I am still happy)

    after reading many threads on this forum I got the confidence to disassemble the print head and clean inside, and fix a small deformation in the top of the Teflon spacer

    So big thanks to all people who helped and didn't even know you were helping me

    Stu

     

  16. To bad (for us) that those maximum working temperatures do not account for deformation under stress as we found out (the bad way)

    I have been following this thread for some time and realise my problems are because of deformation in the teflon coupler. I have done some printing with ColorFab XT and now realise that problems started after than, I plan to disassemble the head later today. I have been in contact also with support to buy replacement parts, bowden tube ,coupler and print head.

    Daid I assume that any new shipments of parts will be with the new teflon coupler ?

    Stu

     

  17. Thank you guys for your feedback.

    So, in Markus case he didn't start 3D modeling before he had his UM2.

    Does this go for you as well Blizz? / Stu / Yellowshark?

     

    In my case I studied engineering drawing at school so thought I would easily understand CAD, I have worked with computers all of my life, but school was so long ago that I really had to learn CAD from scratch.

    I find it very gratifying to visualise something on the screen and then print it and have it in your hands a few hours later.

    EDIT - just uploaded the first pool skimmer design, no photo of the real thing because its in the pool !!https://www.youmagine.com/designs/swiming-pool-skimmer

     

  18. Hi Sander

    I have designed many different things- several different swimming pool skimmers, replacement cooker gas knobs and a clip to attach an umbrella to a child's push chair.

    Each improves my CAD knowledge, very glad I stuck with the printer and am now very pleased with the results too

    Stu

     

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