[Is there a way to improve the quality of flat top layers ?]

you could try the option in Cura (under Shell coomand) of "Enable Ironing"

 

 

[Missing Screw UMS5]

Question for you - where are you located in the world I bought  (very long lead time) from China a big quantity of grub screws if you are in Europe I could maybe post some to you ?

 to get you running if its urgent ???

[Missing Screw UMS5]

I am pretty sure they are M3 grub-screws, there are several types the ones you want have a flat top not a pointed top

 

Recommend to look all over inside the printer to see if they have dropped out but they are very small

[UM2+ skipping steps]

my pleasure

 

good printing

S

[UM2+ skipping steps]

The movement shown in your second video is absolutely NOT correct there should be no movement at all you need to loosen the pulley an move outwards to prevent this movement

 

[UM2+ skipping steps]

If the belt is rubbing on the wires then they need to be pushed back out of the way, but the rubbing would surely effect all of the print. Its very simple to remove the limit switch (just two screws on the side) and push the wires back

 

looking at the print it would seem to me to be a problem that starts at a height as the first third of the big print looks OK

 

my first thought to solve the print problem would be to check all of the rods are correctly lubricated, then check none of the rods are loose and can move side to side or back to front

 

good luck

[Where to buy new freeder for UM2+]

I am sure you will buy what you choose to but the original feeder is not (in my opinion) your best choice, the performance of the Bondtech is much superior

[Nozzles for printing from composite materials]

no doubt in my mind the correct nozzle is an Ruby tipped one from 3DSolex  its called an "Everlast Ruby" available in a range of sizes

Not sure where you are located but it is distribute widely (all over the world)

 

You may need to increase the flow rate and temperature to get best performance

[UM2 constant nozzle clogging: Help]

It would be worth taking the Bowden tube off and trying with a piece of filament if the tube feels rough.

In the five years I have had my UM2 I have changed the tube at least once, some times in a desperate attempt to solve an extrusion problem. You have changed all of the other elements in the materiel feed chain

 

good luck

[Details not printed]

It may be worth trying a smaller nozzle like a 0.25 for instance, sure it will take longer but it could make the difference

[Dropped Blue Bowden Clip into the head assembly on UM2+]

I would not worry too much if you can't get it out, I lost one for a long time and replaced it only to rediscover it (inside the print head assembly) months later when I had to disassemble the print head.

 

I do not think there is any risk of it melting

 

[PLA Printing Defect]

Question are the materials from the same manufacturer ?

The blue on is showing under extrusion, maybe try increase the print temperature

[UM3 3dSolex Hardcore Printecore issues / Impressions - TL;DR AVOID]

I would very much recommend that you contact Carl at 3DSolex directly, his reputation is very high and has always given me excellent service with any problems.

[Sporadic layer shifting]

It could be that one of the pulleys that the belts are attached to is able to slip slightly on the metal rods, worth checking that they are all super tight

good luck

[UM2+ bowden tube snatched from bondtech]

My pleasure

 

by the way I am also big fan of the Bondtech feeder (I have the QR version), its great to concentrate on design and not printer maintenance

[UM2+ bowden tube snatched from bondtech]

you could try cutting say a centimetre from the end of the bowden tube which should give the white plastic part a better grip

[Nozzle size request]

+1 for positive comments on 3dsolex, I have not used a nozzle from Ultimaker for years, especially useful are the  ruby/sapphire tipped nozzles for abrasive materials

[Huge PLA leak above heater block UM2+]

its hard to say what has caused your problem, have you recently changed the print nozzle ? it could be that it was maybe not tight enough and leaked ?

 

good luck with the test print

[colorFabb bronzeFill]

nice work - well done - I know what you mean about post processing but your result sets a high bar for bronzefil

[Why is the printer doing this on the first layer? (pic)]

you could try re positioning the part to a different place on the bed (left or right), this would prove @gr5 thinking

[New UM3 Extended]

depending on what you want to achieve with your 3D printing you maybe should start looking into CAD software and try to find one that suits you, I personally am a big fan of Fussion360, but there are many other possibilities

 

good luck and welcome

[Hole through gear]

Hi Curor

I would echo the thoughts of @rowiac I started out trying to use Sketchup but eventually fixed on using Fusion360.
It has many advantages - its free, has a history feature which means you can go back in time and edit the design, plus lots of training on Youtube.
An interesting feature for you is the links to a company called McMaster-Carr where you can download design files for hundreds of items (including many gears) you can edit them to suit your requirements

 

good luck

[Z Axis Issue]

To help you I would like to see the first movements of the print bed from the very beginning of a print, but I would suggest that the z stepper motor may be wired wrongly. When a real UM starts a print it resets the position of both the print head and the bed, with the bed it should move up slightly and then down to the lowest Z stop position (controlled by the limit switch)

 

I also have no info on the controller board or the firmware release level, I assume its a kit from China ?

[Stumbling through the forest of 3D Modelling - what software for newbie?]

On 15/11/2017 at 4:17 PM, DidierKlein said:

I'm surprised no one mentionned Fusion 360 it's also a very nice piece of software, and free for students hobbyists and startups.

One downside maybe is that it's cloud based but for me it has always worked great, and there are a lot of tutorials on youtube

 

I agree with Didier, (now with a very serious hair cut) for me Fusion 360 is my preferred CAD product, also not a big fan of Cloud based solutions but its never let me down. It is especially powerful when you use the history function to edit the past and also using parameters to change designs.

I regularly watch video on youtube by a guy called Lars Christensen (who works for AutoDesk) more than 100 tutorials available

 

 

[Ultimaker Community | Forum migration]

We are currently looking at December 14th, Thursday, to start the migration process. If there are no delays, we should be back open on December 18th in our new home

well - good luck @SandervG to you and all of us, hope it all goes well (I can still remember the last migration, but lets leave history behind us)

S