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stu_le_brew

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Everything posted by stu_le_brew

  1. I have made a lot of use of FormFutura and Colorfab for PLA, both produce good results.
  2. My suggestion is to check the fan connector which is inside the print head block, IMO its a design flaw - the wires are only crimped on to the connector. On my printer this has become detached several times, the same applies to the two side fans. In my case I have soldered the connectors which has improved reliability for me good luck
  3. On an UM2+ I think the "hot end fan" come on at 40 degrees, on older models they are on all the time
  4. it should be salvageable, put it back into the machine and heat to 180 degrees (no need to load any filament though), let it soften for a few mins and then remove bit by bit the mess, using what ever tools you have to hand - even a long tooth pick should do keep an eye on the temperature as if say the temp sensor is trashed then it could heat to destruction Hard to say what caused this good luck
  5. I have used super glue to stick the magnets in place as suggested on the Mark 2 website I and am about to do the installation - when I get time
  6. it looks like a problem with the micro switch at the back left (its fixed to the top of the printer by two screws) Have you recently dis assembled the machine,maybe its become disconnected from the mother board ? Its not to difficult to replace, you can test its function with a simple electrical meter you should be able to hear it click when you move the head manually to the left side of the machine
  7. Hi Sander, I assume the new Cura 3 will work with the older machines - UMO and UM2... ?
  8. OK I can only give my opinions:- The V2 steel coupler is in my opinion better made and stronger than the UM part The TFN coupler is a replacement for the UM part not really sure if its better or not but I haven't changed it for about 500+hrs or printing, I think the price is better than an UM part. Lastly the Y2K provides protection for the bottom of the PTFE coupler (particularly important at high temperatures) last time I disassembled the print head the coupler was in perfect condition, so for me it does a great job. I have a matchless nano installed - work just fine If you need more info I would suggest contacting 3DSolex @swordriff (his real name is Carl) he is very frienly and helpful
  9. I only use Race nozzles they just work extremely well for me, I have not used an old RSB Jet for maybe six months. The list of abrasive materials is longer than you might think, it includes Bronzefil (any metals I think) also Woodfil and 'glow in the dark' too. I have several stainless nozzles but the Sapphire or Ruby is much better IMO
  10. Yes you just select the file (as if you were going to print it) and the printer executes the GCode commands. Can you do damage if you tighten the screw to much - well yes you could damage the sensor and or the heater - it just needs to be tight enough to securely hold in place the heater and sensor. If its to tight you may not be able to remove them in the future.
  11. the 35W heater will be OK with the original print head, you problem is more likely to be (IMO) the sensor not fully inserted home to the end of the hole or maybe not secured with the screw. If its in correctly it shouldn't be possible to move it, temp variation is usually only a few degrees once target temp has been reached.
  12. II can't believe that price, a quick search on Ali Express comes up with same product at half the price - delivered cick for link BUT you would have wait a few weeks
  13. I do not think the heater connections matter (ie no positive or negative) you may want to take a look at the UM2 assembly manual click here for reassurance - page 64
  14. I am no expert on github, but you need the UM2+ firmware which is different from the UM2, as the UM2+ has a different feeder
  15. I agree with @Legendary_zotar that your speeds are ambitious but my speed recommendation would be 45-50mm/s print speed, infill speed 55mm/s or less, travel speed I use 150mm/s Most of these parameters can be machine specific, for example I have an Olson block, use matchless nozzles and have a BondTec feeder, all of these improve print speed
  16. In my opinion the Matchless nozzles are a useful improvement to printing they allow you to print cooler and faster, my current favourite is a 0.6mm which allow me to print (using HDglass from Form Futura) at 50mm/s with layer height 0.25 at a temp of 208-210 With the older brass nozzles I was printing at a temp of 218) the results are of a very impressive quality. Its far better that the original UM 0.4 nozzle printing at half the speed. I have not used the old brass nozzles since buying the Matchless nozzles So Yes I would recommend them, I am less enthusiastic about the Stainless nozzles as heat transfer is slower so you have to slow down the print speed. The only reason to use a Stainless nozzle is with hard materials but the Sapphire and Ruby nozzles achieve the same result without significant reduction in print speed. I should say I have no financial relation ship with @swordriff at 3DSolex, except I am a fan of his products
  17. what are the printer parameters, temperature, speed, and what is the materiel you are using the first layer looks fine, you could try moving the print to a different place on the print bed, also change the orientation
  18. I would recommend you try a search on aliexpress.com for "Ultimaker 2 knurled wheel" shipping is usually free - it just takes a while to arrive. I have bought from there before, quality seemed OK but I can not remember the seller's name good luck
  19. A thought from me for AMA, I remember a discussion some considerable time ago about scanners, and the conclusion was that the technology was not that hot unless you spend tons of money. but clearly someone at Ultimaker was looking at the market and was knowledgeable on the subject can't remember who - maybe Daid or Nallath ?
  20. my experience is that you can (and should) print with a lower temperature using this nozzle It just works really well
  21. The PTFE coupler does not look too bad, I would try a 3mm drill to clean up the exit point (to be done by hand not using an elecrtic drill). I would also recommend an I2K insulator which protects the end of the coupler, I have had one in my printer for probably 500hr of printing "It serves as an insulator between the PTFE coupler and the hot end" available from http://3dsolex.com/product/i2k/ and maybe other places Last time I dis-assembled the print head the PTFE coupler was still like brand new
  22. I wonder if the problem is caused by a small deformation at the bottom of the PTFE coupler, next time you dis-assemble you could try to push some filament through the coupler it should pass through quite easily.
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