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stu_le_brew

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Everything posted by stu_le_brew

  1. Hi Sander, I assume the new Cura 3 will work with the older machines - UMO and UM2... ?
  2. OK I can only give my opinions:- The V2 steel coupler is in my opinion better made and stronger than the UM part The TFN coupler is a replacement for the UM part not really sure if its better or not but I haven't changed it for about 500+hrs or printing, I think the price is better than an UM part. Lastly the Y2K provides protection for the bottom of the PTFE coupler (particularly important at high temperatures) last time I disassembled the print head the coupler was in perfect condition, so for me it does a great job. I have a matchless nano installed - work just fine If you need more info I would suggest contacting 3DSolex @swordriff (his real name is Carl) he is very frienly and helpful
  3. I only use Race nozzles they just work extremely well for me, I have not used an old RSB Jet for maybe six months. The list of abrasive materials is longer than you might think, it includes Bronzefil (any metals I think) also Woodfil and 'glow in the dark' too. I have several stainless nozzles but the Sapphire or Ruby is much better IMO
  4. Yes you just select the file (as if you were going to print it) and the printer executes the GCode commands. Can you do damage if you tighten the screw to much - well yes you could damage the sensor and or the heater - it just needs to be tight enough to securely hold in place the heater and sensor. If its to tight you may not be able to remove them in the future.
  5. the 35W heater will be OK with the original print head, you problem is more likely to be (IMO) the sensor not fully inserted home to the end of the hole or maybe not secured with the screw. If its in correctly it shouldn't be possible to move it, temp variation is usually only a few degrees once target temp has been reached.
  6. II can't believe that price, a quick search on Ali Express comes up with same product at half the price - delivered cick for link BUT you would have wait a few weeks
  7. I do not think the heater connections matter (ie no positive or negative) you may want to take a look at the UM2 assembly manual click here for reassurance - page 64
  8. I am no expert on github, but you need the UM2+ firmware which is different from the UM2, as the UM2+ has a different feeder
  9. I agree with @Legendary_zotar that your speeds are ambitious but my speed recommendation would be 45-50mm/s print speed, infill speed 55mm/s or less, travel speed I use 150mm/s Most of these parameters can be machine specific, for example I have an Olson block, use matchless nozzles and have a BondTec feeder, all of these improve print speed
  10. In my opinion the Matchless nozzles are a useful improvement to printing they allow you to print cooler and faster, my current favourite is a 0.6mm which allow me to print (using HDglass from Form Futura) at 50mm/s with layer height 0.25 at a temp of 208-210 With the older brass nozzles I was printing at a temp of 218) the results are of a very impressive quality. Its far better that the original UM 0.4 nozzle printing at half the speed. I have not used the old brass nozzles since buying the Matchless nozzles So Yes I would recommend them, I am less enthusiastic about the Stainless nozzles as heat transfer is slower so you have to slow down the print speed. The only reason to use a Stainless nozzle is with hard materials but the Sapphire and Ruby nozzles achieve the same result without significant reduction in print speed. I should say I have no financial relation ship with @swordriff at 3DSolex, except I am a fan of his products
  11. what are the printer parameters, temperature, speed, and what is the materiel you are using the first layer looks fine, you could try moving the print to a different place on the print bed, also change the orientation
  12. I would recommend you try a search on aliexpress.com for "Ultimaker 2 knurled wheel" shipping is usually free - it just takes a while to arrive. I have bought from there before, quality seemed OK but I can not remember the seller's name good luck
  13. A thought from me for AMA, I remember a discussion some considerable time ago about scanners, and the conclusion was that the technology was not that hot unless you spend tons of money. but clearly someone at Ultimaker was looking at the market and was knowledgeable on the subject can't remember who - maybe Daid or Nallath ?
  14. my experience is that you can (and should) print with a lower temperature using this nozzle It just works really well
  15. The PTFE coupler does not look too bad, I would try a 3mm drill to clean up the exit point (to be done by hand not using an elecrtic drill). I would also recommend an I2K insulator which protects the end of the coupler, I have had one in my printer for probably 500hr of printing "It serves as an insulator between the PTFE coupler and the hot end" available from http://3dsolex.com/product/i2k/ and maybe other places Last time I dis-assembled the print head the PTFE coupler was still like brand new
  16. I wonder if the problem is caused by a small deformation at the bottom of the PTFE coupler, next time you dis-assemble you could try to push some filament through the coupler it should pass through quite easily.
  17. You may also like to take a look at http://3dsolex.com/ specifically the Matchless nozzles which have special internal design to improve materiel flow and there are options with ruby/saphire tips for printing abrasive materiels. I have three different sizes of these hard tip (called 'Everlast') nozzled and am very impressed with them good luck
  18. stringing is often cured by lowering the print head temperature, strange that it starts only towards the top (cant see the inside of the front part, but I assume its there too) maybe you could try dropping the temp by say 5 degrees - you could use the 'Tweak at Z plugin' so you don't have to sit and wait to make the change
  19. It could be worth checking all of the fans on the print head are working correctly, especially as the problem seemed to start after a head dis-assemble I have had many problems in the past with the connectors for the fans which are all in the head area
  20. well to me it looks like too much materiel is being printed, could be due to temperature being too high - you could try lowering by 5-10 degrees also check flow rate of the extruder feeder its rare to need other than 100% especially for a standard PLA print what nozzle size are you using - looks like a large one but hard to guess
  21. to help you we will need more information what is :- your printer I assume an Ultimaker ?, materiel, head temperature, speed etc etc
  22. I have experienced this sort of problem before its solved by lowering the print temperature, but I can't explain why this should suddenly appear, have you printed this model before ?
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