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Everything posted by stu_le_brew

  1. You may also like to take a look at http://3dsolex.com/ specifically the Matchless nozzles which have special internal design to improve materiel flow and there are options with ruby/saphire tips for printing abrasive materiels. I have three different sizes of these hard tip (called 'Everlast') nozzled and am very impressed with them good luck
  2. stringing is often cured by lowering the print head temperature, strange that it starts only towards the top (cant see the inside of the front part, but I assume its there too) maybe you could try dropping the temp by say 5 degrees - you could use the 'Tweak at Z plugin' so you don't have to sit and wait to make the change
  3. It could be worth checking all of the fans on the print head are working correctly, especially as the problem seemed to start after a head dis-assemble I have had many problems in the past with the connectors for the fans which are all in the head area
  4. well to me it looks like too much materiel is being printed, could be due to temperature being too high - you could try lowering by 5-10 degrees also check flow rate of the extruder feeder its rare to need other than 100% especially for a standard PLA print what nozzle size are you using - looks like a large one but hard to guess
  5. to help you we will need more information what is :- your printer I assume an Ultimaker ?, materiel, head temperature, speed etc etc
  6. I have experienced this sort of problem before its solved by lowering the print temperature, but I can't explain why this should suddenly appear, have you printed this model before ?
  7. great news it sorted re the BondTech, I periodically open and clean the feeder gears to remove filament debris with a stiff brush (not metal) - seems to help with extrusion when I have problems good luck
  8. I once had something vaguely similar to this which turned out to be the SDCard - it had errors on it (my printer is an UM2 hence SDCard not USB) This was fixed after I re-formatted the card it may be worth checking the USB stick for errors
  9. It look like a problem with the z axis to me maybe you need to clean and lubricated both the Z thread and the vertical shafts One other thought, depending on your feeder (I have a BondTech feeder) sometimes the internal feeder gears benefit from cleaning
  10. be sure that Cura has finished writing the file to the SD card before you remove it from your computer you can also open the Gcode file on the SD card in cura (it will open in layers mode) if this works OK then it must be a problem with your printer good luck and welcome to the forum
  11. just a thought - could it be due to variation in the temperature sensor between the two printers ? It looks like your printing too hot to me interesting design too
  12. Didier's website/shop is http://www.ideato3d.be/ he does sell both of the fans
  13. lots of parameters to be considered here (maybe to many to get to an answer ?) nozzle diameter and type (example brass, stainless steel or even ruby tipped) type of materiel even variety of print head I can think of at least three for the UM2 heat capacity of the head heater (two or three variants for the UM2) the list goes on and on ..... then you will need to consider the build quality/detail resolution you want to achieve, as the absolute best build quality starts with a small nozzle and is better if printed slowly
  14. Thanks for that info Thanks for that info ultiarjan, PM sent
  15. wonder if anyone here knows were to buy the Mark2 pcb ??
  16. I used to have this problem in particular with the last 10-15% of filament on a reel, completely fixed when I changed to a BondTeck extruder feeder, I am also sure the new geared feeder from Ultimaker would solve the problem
  17. I have been using the Everlast nozzles on my UM2 - mainly with wood and bronze materiel with very good results (I have three different sizes 0.25,0.40 and 0.60) The UM2 Everlast nozzles are either ruby or saphire, what also makes them work well is the internal design of the nozzle. I hope everyone is OK with an English reply, translation below just in case it helps J'ai utilisé les bus Everlast sur mon UM2 - principalement avec du matériel en bois et en bronze avec de très bons résultats (j'ai trois tailles différentes 0,25,0.40 et 0.60) Les buses UM2 Everlast sont ruby ou saphire, ce qui les rend également efficaces, c'est la conception interne de la buse. J'espère que tout le monde est bien avec une réponse en anglais, traduction ci-dessous au cas où cela aidera
  18. One thought, have you tried re-connecting the old fan ?
  19. Its hard to say but in my experience (more than three years with UM2) the Teflon coupler I have replaced several times but since I installed an 'I2K' spacer from 3D-Solex I have not had to replace the Teflon piece again, now more than 600hrs since last change. I suppose you may need to replace the Teflon Bowden tube occasionally, in my case I have replaced once. Also the print nozzles can wear out from printing abrasive materiel, like metals filaments
  20. I think posting photos of the print could help people with diagnosis also you could update your profile to indicate where you are in the world - it could be that some one could be very nearby and could help ?
  21. Hi Bob, I just love the Matchless block, its seems like it has a non slip interior (which I know it hasn't) but the need to do Atomic cleans just seems unnecessary, I am very pleased with it. I waited for a while after it was released before ordering it so mine, it seems absolutely fine - just thinking about the original UM print head seems like a piece of history now I am also waiting for the 2nd extruder mod, I have several Olson blocks that I plan to use for that
  22. I just noticed that the new nozzles are now available everlast-um2-nozzles
  23. good luck with your search for help, I am too far away from you (Lot department of France)
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