Jump to content

stu_le_brew

Member
  • Posts

    302
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by stu_le_brew

  1. Thank you @stu_le_brew

    I also thinking if I should buy a steel coupler v2 and/or Y2K to use with Mathless Nano kit for high temps filaments as 910 alloy Nylon from Taulman. Y2K I know that is important but don't know if it's compatible with Mathless Nano kit. The TFN is on my list by the way.

    And the steel couper v2 I don't know what kind of improvement it will give. In 3dsolex website it described: "Greatly improved spare part! Very handy to have lying around!" Maybe a stupid question but what it means? :)

    OK I can only give my opinions:-

    • The V2 steel coupler is in my opinion better made and stronger than the UM part
       
    • The TFN coupler is a replacement for the UM part not really sure if its better or not but I haven't changed it for about 500+hrs or printing, I think the price is better than an UM part.
       
    • Lastly the Y2K provides protection for the bottom of the PTFE coupler (particularly important at high temperatures) last time I disassembled the print head the coupler was in perfect condition, so for me it does a great job.

    I have a matchless nano installed - work just fine

    If you need more info I would suggest contacting 3DSolex @swordriff (his real name is Carl) he is very frienly and helpful

    • Like 1
  2. Yes you just select the file (as if you were going to print it) and the printer executes the GCode commands.

    Can you do damage if you tighten the screw to much - well yes you could damage the sensor and or the heater - it just needs to be tight enough to securely hold in place the heater and sensor. If its to tight you may not be able to remove them in the future.

  3. the 35W heater will be OK with the original print head, you problem is more likely to be (IMO) the sensor not fully inserted home to the end of the hole or maybe not secured with the screw.

    If its in correctly it shouldn't be possible to move it, temp variation is usually only a few degrees once target temp has been reached.

  4. In my opinion the Matchless nozzles are a useful improvement to printing they allow you to print cooler and faster, my current favourite is a 0.6mm which allow me to print (using HDglass from Form Futura) at 50mm/s with layer height 0.25 at a temp of 208-210 With the older brass nozzles I was printing at a temp of 218) the results are of a very impressive quality. Its far better that the original UM 0.4 nozzle printing at half the speed.

    I have not used the old brass nozzles since buying the Matchless nozzles

    So Yes I would recommend them, I am less enthusiastic about the Stainless nozzles as heat transfer is slower so you have to slow down the print speed. The only reason to use a Stainless nozzle is with hard materials but the Sapphire and Ruby nozzles achieve the same result without significant reduction in print speed.

    I should say I have no financial relation ship with @swordriff at 3DSolex, except I am a fan of his products

    • Like 1
  5. A thought from me for AMA, I remember a discussion some considerable time ago about scanners, and the conclusion was that the technology was not that hot unless you spend tons of money. but clearly someone at Ultimaker was looking at the market and was knowledgeable on the subject can't remember who - maybe Daid or Nallath ?

  6. The PTFE coupler does not look too bad, I would try a 3mm drill to clean up the exit point (to be done by hand not using an elecrtic drill).

    I would also recommend an I2K insulator which protects the end of the coupler, I have had one in my printer for probably 500hr of printing "It serves as an insulator between the PTFE coupler and the hot end" available from http://3dsolex.com/product/i2k/ and maybe other places

    Last time I dis-assembled the print head the PTFE coupler was still like brand new

  7. Conductive filament has a conductive element admixed. Such admixtures (powder, fibres etc.) are quite abrasive. I would indeed recommend a special nozzle but avoid maybe steel or similar and go for a ruby nozzle, e.g. the Olsson Ruby.

    You may also like to take a look at http://3dsolex.com/ specifically the Matchless nozzles which have special internal design to improve materiel flow and there are options with ruby/saphire tips for printing abrasive materiels. I have three different sizes of these hard tip (called 'Everlast') nozzled and am very impressed with them

    good luck

  8. It could be worth checking all of the fans on the print head are working correctly, especially as the problem seemed to start after a head dis-assemble

    I have had many problems in the past with the connectors for the fans which are all in the head area

  9. well to me it looks like too much materiel is being printed, could be due to temperature being too high - you could try lowering by 5-10 degrees

    also check flow rate of the extruder feeder its rare to need other than 100% especially for a standard PLA print

    what nozzle size are you using - looks like a large one but hard to guess

×
×
  • Create New...