stu_le_brew

clearly Labern types faster than me not sure of your location, as the site mentioned by Labern is in US, my EBay purchased fan is from Germany,

from what I understand no its not possible, but on more recent models the fan only comes on at a certain temperature. many others have complained about the fan noise, I have just ordered a replacement fan from EBay which is supposed to be quieter (approx 23 db)

I agree completely, the 0.6 and 0.8 produce amassing speed and the quality is good too

can't see your answer to "Labern" question about the stock filament feeder, so I assume you have the standard one I would suggest opening the feeder and check for filament debris inside, also maybe a drop of thin oil on the bearing inside the feeder If you haven't removed the feeder before a word of caution you would be best advised to take the back left cover plate off first as the feeder stepper will drop down as you remove the last screw holding the feeder in place.

hope your presentation went well, any feedback would be interesting good luck with your work S

just wondered how much filament is there on the reel, as this can sometimes cause a problem - my thinking is that some filaments remember being tightly wound round a reel and this can cause increased friction in the bowden tube I had this problem once and even went to the trouble of heating the last 10+ meters of filament in hot water and straightened it out - the prints returned to normal

great news, glad you tracked it down

Welcome to the dark side of the force!!! - JOKE You have lots of learning ahead but so rewarding Bon chance S

sounds like a power issue, my initial thought would be to check the power block connection

Link? https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

from my understanding that green packet is grease (copper grease I think) primarily intended for between the stainless coupler and the aluminium part of the print head, also maybe for the Z axis screw. Not for the X or Y axis rods at all, that's where you need the light oil for lubrication

one additional thought I would recommend you get grub screws with a flat end (not domes or cone shape) they seem to grip the shaft better

in my opinion I would say that will be OK, in UK there is a very old brand called "3-in-one" which I use, its nothing to special just thin oil you only need very little to oil all the rods say four drops on a cloth or some tissue and your done for a few months (depending on printer usage)

I had the same problem some time ago, so I bought some from AliExpress (like 100 stainless grub screws for very little money - less than 5 euro from memory) so now I don't worry if the screw gets damaged.

Sometimes I use gluestick to get the first layer to stick, after that things work themselves out, even with Pla and a heated bed Worth a try!!!

I most often have travel speed at 200, also your layer height seems low - I don't think I have ever gone that low my minimum is 0.06 which produces very high quality prints. If you are keen to get very high quality you may want to look into the "Olson Block" (http://3dsolex.com) which allows you to change the size of the nozzle, so you could then try a 0.25mm nozzle

no need to worry Cura will take care of any possible collisions, also if there are very tall items it will change to print all pieces at once so preventing the head crashing into your work. You can see the path the head is going to take by looking at Layers (in view mode - top right of Cura window) Also it is often helpful if people know where you are in the world and which printer you have, this could mean a different answer for your problem, so I suggest you update your profile with this info Welcome to the forum

can't answer what the materiel is for the sides but I have been getting some great clarity with HD Glass from formfutura.com. They claim 90% plus clarity, it is less clear with higher temperatures, also its even FDA food and drink contact approved if thats important for your needs

as gr5 said - retraction distance is in the tune menu, that's on the front panel of the printer also retraction speed is there too btw love your name - you just have to be based in Rome ?

just for information the same applies to an UM2, the limit switches are not threaded - I had to replace one on my printer a few months ago

please forgive me if I am asking a dumb question Carl, but is there anything special about the installation of the 35W heater i.e. do I need to make amendments to the firmware or will it just work. For the moment I am only printing in PLA and XT so nothing too exotic

I bought three reels of TGlass (clear, red and blue) and am quite pleased with the results, but is a bit variable for small objects it prints really very clear. But for tall objects it can be less clear - still experimenting with temperature and fan speed My reason for posting is, having just finished a big print run (almost 100 objects and a few 9 hour prints too) in TGlass, I have now switched back to PLA but had lots of problems, which were resolved eventually with four "atomic" cleans the last at 235 degrees. So my conclusion is that its very sticky and must leave some residue in the extruder - working well again now For information I use an Olson block and an I2K spacer from @swordriff at Solex - very pleased with them too

have you ever lubricated the rods, my printer is a little older and have oiled all of the rods maybe five times. do you feel any roughness when moving the print head around manually ?

Hi Swordriff Looks to me like all the rubbish that hides under the print bed, but you only see it when a print is under way and you dare not remove at that time in case you upset the print. Then you forget about it till the next print is under way ! best regards Stu

firstly welcome to the forum It will help with the diagnosis of the problem if you post the parameters settings from CURA, which mode are you using I would guess you are using 'Quick Print' but you may be dabling already with Expert settings ?