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  1. I was already on 14.12.1 because I was experiencing the heater error. I just double checked and the sensor and the heater cartage are both fully seated, but the heater cartridge cable looks a little rough and frayed right where the wire stops so that is probably the cause. As for the heated bed the connector looks fine and I can't imagine the cable is loose from the board as the machine hasn't moved in over a year of use. I'm thinking the cable it self might have broken from all the motion
  2. So I started getting a temp sensor error mid prints and they would just stop, so I downgraded to 14.09 and at first the bed platform would still not heat up and when I went to heat up the nozzle then the bed worked. So maybe this is a combination of hardware and software problems? What ever it is it seems to have some connection to the firmware version
  3. Since the latest firmware update my heated bed plate will not change temperature using Ultigcode. I haven't been near the printer to test the maintenance menu or downgrade, but I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the problem?
  4. I'm in the middle of running the u2 extrusion test and am not noticing any banding which might lead me to believe this might a big impact on the artifacts. I'm about to run a few hour long print and will post the results
  5. No your ideas are helpful and they spark thoughts please continue to help. My following question is this. Should I be setting layer heights to be something like .06 vs.05 and.16 vs. 15 I know there was something about setting the height to be a multiple of the thread screw pitch/size but I thought the U2 had a screw that would allow any height?
  6. So you are just thinking we are having extrusion problems because it isn't flowing through the head evenly? Could it have to do with how high the ptfe coupler is?
  7. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5066-u2-z-ribbing/ I don't really have much faith in me bugging ultimaker for a new z nut because you seem to still be having issues. I just lowed my z max speed to 20mm/s but haven't gotten a chance to test if that helped it at all. As you can see this isn't a new issue for me and it seems to boggle everyones mind because I haven't had any replies.
  8. Okay I am resurrecting this thread once again because I am still having issues. I think its time to open op the z assembly and take a look at the z nut, but I don't know the best way to deconstruct the axist. There were times where I would start a print and for what ever reason the machine would run the print bed into the bottom ignoring the z stop. This was with cura gcode and never simplify3d code and that has kinda pissed me off. It hasn't happened in a while but I am starting to feel like the z nut might be broken. I found this thread from the rep rap forums and it seems to explain my prob
  9. So here are some example photos from my recent prints. Both are on the latest 14.07 cura with the latest firmware installed. I am starting to become frustrated with this U2, I am going to send a support ticket out because I would really like to get this fixed. I have tried greasing the z screw.
  10. When 3d printing with these FDM machines, there is a 45 degree rule. The idea is to make sure when a layer is printed on top of another, the edges of the two layers do not create an angle of 45 degrees or larger. Obviously there is room for give and take with the actual angle, but printing things with large overhangs or spheres are very difficult to get the bottom layers looking good. From the image it is hard to tell if there is anything on the back of the print, but if there isn't, print it laying down on the print bed.
  11. I am still plagued by this problem and I plan on posting more photos of new prints that show this artifact. I would like for some other things to look for as fix, but I have run out of ideas. Something I have noticed which might be completely irreverent but could be a problem is my ultimaker 2 isn't stable. In the sense that its base is skewed and needs a shim under the front left corner in order to not shake back and forth. I received the machine like that and thought nothing of it, but now that I am unable to resolve these issues, I am wondering if it has something to do with it. Any other i
  12. I used Simplify3D as my slicer and it has very nice support settings. You have full control over the density, location, and print speed. Its not free but I really love the extra control it gives me.
  13. I lowered the z axis move speed a little. It also might be because I had the setting with layers under x seconds on and it seemed to create a lot of layers of different lengths. It seems to be reduced but that doesn't seem to completely remove the artifact. I'd assume the lack of responses are because its not an obvious fix. I think it all boils down to cooling of PLA as it lays down. If I find anything else to help the situation I will post to help others with a similar issue
  14. http://imgur.com/wePz6VF Another example. The printer is finally creating great prints except for the z issues.
  15. Just having had a few non functional weeks with my U2 I started it back up again and noticed an artifact on the prints. It appears to be some sort of z ribbing but I am not sure. I regreased the z screw with the supplied grease but it didn't seem to fix the problem. The vase is printed at 33mm/s with a temp of 190 and fans are on full after the first 5 layers. And was printed at .25mm layer height. http://i.imgur.com/Jz5MMDD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LMZUr1a.jpg The issue although less apparent on this bust is visible. This is at .1 mm layer height http://i.imgur.com/R1fHvAD.jpg http://i.im
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