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mikey

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Everything posted by mikey

  1. I was already on 14.12.1 because I was experiencing the heater error. I just double checked and the sensor and the heater cartage are both fully seated, but the heater cartridge cable looks a little rough and frayed right where the wire stops so that is probably the cause. As for the heated bed the connector looks fine and I can't imagine the cable is loose from the board as the machine hasn't moved in over a year of use. I'm thinking the cable it self might have broken from all the motion
  2. So I started getting a temp sensor error mid prints and they would just stop, so I downgraded to 14.09 and at first the bed platform would still not heat up and when I went to heat up the nozzle then the bed worked. So maybe this is a combination of hardware and software problems? What ever it is it seems to have some connection to the firmware version
  3. Since the latest firmware update my heated bed plate will not change temperature using Ultigcode. I haven't been near the printer to test the maintenance menu or downgrade, but I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the problem?
  4. I'm in the middle of running the u2 extrusion test and am not noticing any banding which might lead me to believe this might a big impact on the artifacts. I'm about to run a few hour long print and will post the results
  5. No your ideas are helpful and they spark thoughts please continue to help. My following question is this. Should I be setting layer heights to be something like .06 vs.05 and.16 vs. 15 I know there was something about setting the height to be a multiple of the thread screw pitch/size but I thought the U2 had a screw that would allow any height?
  6. So you are just thinking we are having extrusion problems because it isn't flowing through the head evenly? Could it have to do with how high the ptfe coupler is?
  7. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5066-u2-z-ribbing/ I don't really have much faith in me bugging ultimaker for a new z nut because you seem to still be having issues. I just lowed my z max speed to 20mm/s but haven't gotten a chance to test if that helped it at all. As you can see this isn't a new issue for me and it seems to boggle everyones mind because I haven't had any replies.
  8. Okay I am resurrecting this thread once again because I am still having issues. I think its time to open op the z assembly and take a look at the z nut, but I don't know the best way to deconstruct the axist. There were times where I would start a print and for what ever reason the machine would run the print bed into the bottom ignoring the z stop. This was with cura gcode and never simplify3d code and that has kinda pissed me off. It hasn't happened in a while but I am starting to feel like the z nut might be broken. I found this thread from the rep rap forums and it seems to explain my problem and a fix. And after looking at the Ulitamaker 2 files on github the z screw is trapezoidal. Any ideas? I am going to have to go through Ultimaker support but because I have one of the first few batches of machines I'm way out of warranty but I have been plagued by this problem since almost the day I owned the machine so hopefully they help me out. The outer perimeter speed of this print was 15mm/s and the internal was 30mm/s so I do not know if that exemplified the problem but it is very apparent even with the same speed walls. Is it possible that the z speed could be the cause of the issue? It should be between 35-45 mm/s and I will check after the print finishes
  9. So here are some example photos from my recent prints. Both are on the latest 14.07 cura with the latest firmware installed. I am starting to become frustrated with this U2, I am going to send a support ticket out because I would really like to get this fixed. I have tried greasing the z screw.
  10. When 3d printing with these FDM machines, there is a 45 degree rule. The idea is to make sure when a layer is printed on top of another, the edges of the two layers do not create an angle of 45 degrees or larger. Obviously there is room for give and take with the actual angle, but printing things with large overhangs or spheres are very difficult to get the bottom layers looking good. From the image it is hard to tell if there is anything on the back of the print, but if there isn't, print it laying down on the print bed.
  11. I am still plagued by this problem and I plan on posting more photos of new prints that show this artifact. I would like for some other things to look for as fix, but I have run out of ideas. Something I have noticed which might be completely irreverent but could be a problem is my ultimaker 2 isn't stable. In the sense that its base is skewed and needs a shim under the front left corner in order to not shake back and forth. I received the machine like that and thought nothing of it, but now that I am unable to resolve these issues, I am wondering if it has something to do with it. Any other ideas?
  12. I used Simplify3D as my slicer and it has very nice support settings. You have full control over the density, location, and print speed. Its not free but I really love the extra control it gives me.
  13. I lowered the z axis move speed a little. It also might be because I had the setting with layers under x seconds on and it seemed to create a lot of layers of different lengths. It seems to be reduced but that doesn't seem to completely remove the artifact. I'd assume the lack of responses are because its not an obvious fix. I think it all boils down to cooling of PLA as it lays down. If I find anything else to help the situation I will post to help others with a similar issue
  14. http://imgur.com/wePz6VF Another example. The printer is finally creating great prints except for the z issues.
  15. Just having had a few non functional weeks with my U2 I started it back up again and noticed an artifact on the prints. It appears to be some sort of z ribbing but I am not sure. I regreased the z screw with the supplied grease but it didn't seem to fix the problem. The vase is printed at 33mm/s with a temp of 190 and fans are on full after the first 5 layers. And was printed at .25mm layer height. http://i.imgur.com/Jz5MMDD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LMZUr1a.jpg The issue although less apparent on this bust is visible. This is at .1 mm layer height http://i.imgur.com/R1fHvAD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XDiq9wt.jpg Any ideas? These were not sliced with Cura but with simplify3D I don't see how its layer calculation could be off for the U2 but its a thought that I had
  16. Well if I want to have control of the fans and how they ramp up I need to swap the functionality of the pins. It was a simple fix in the firmware.
  17. I got it to compile on my mac with just make. after swapping the pins I finally have fans working. I can live without leds but what is odd is they are on very slightly. something is just broken with that pin ill look into getting it replaced, but im just happy im back up and running after far too long
  18. So just as a quick test I swapped the pins and the fans are working with the cable so there must be something wrong with the board. Now I am currently trying to build the U2Marlin but am getting an error. Should I post here or start a new thread? I just can't seem to get it to compile. http://imgur.com/iKCLaJf http://imgur.com/XVpOCYB
  19. Yes I had to run a whole new bundle of wires for the fans so I did look at the board. I only got a look at the back because even with it unscrewed the wires were mostly holding it in place. I can't see any damage on the back but the front might be another story. I did do the fan test. They just want work. I'm getting a multimeter today. Here is a crazy idea what if I went and swapped the led and fan pwm pins in the firmware. And just ran without leds. Would I be able to reuse that led pin until I can get a new board
  20. So I contacted support and got replacement fans and a new set of cables but I still can't seem to get the fans to work. Is it possible the electronics for the fans have died?
  21. Yep no luck all the wires on the electronics board look fine. Is there another way I can contact support for some new fans and cable bundles?
  22. Haha that photo where the thread is from is where I figured out the wiring. I already did that fan test so I'm gonna check out underneath the printer but seeing as it was functional right before I broke the connectors I somehow think its the fans that are dead
  23. Already tried that, sadly it did not work Is it possible the fans are fried?
  24. While taking apart the head assembly to check for clogs I broke the fan connectors off. I thought I took a photo of the wiring before I removed the cable but I guess I didn't. Here is how I soldered it back up. Yellow(U2) to red(fan1/left), black(fan1/left) to red(fan2/right),black(fan2/right) to green(U2). But it does not seem to be working. I sent an email to support requesting new fans and cables but I did not get any response yet. What is the correct way to wire the cables? If I had a multimeter I would have tested the setup but I don't Please any help is appreciated I can't print well without the side fans
  25. I have actually set the bed size but for some reason it is still offset, but as far as print quality goes I don't have a problem with it. In fact I found it easier to tune my prints with the extra control. Maybe you should post some photos of what your prints look like.
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