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  1. In the MSDS for Eastman Amphora material it is clearly written that disposal is by... incineration.
  2. I would recommend: - constant speed for any part of the print - slower speed - reduced acceleration - no retraction - greased Bowden The whole idea behind all the above is to have the filament being pushed though the Bowden as constant and soft as possible/acceptable.
  3. Well, if one maintains bed temperature above glass temperature (Tg) after the first layer, then there are great chances that "elephant foot" will enlarge due to lower layers being slightly pressed under the part weight. That's why, if for adhesion reasons bed temperature is set above Tg for the first layer, it should be reduced to something below Tg for the rest.
  4. I used regular/cheapest filament they have for almost 2 years now. 1.75 mm. Neutral, gold, yellow, red, blue, green, silver, pink. There are some behavioral differences depending on color, but this is normal. Pretty consistent diameter, slightly lower: 1.70-1.72 mm. Simple and compact spool of 1 kg (I bought also some 2 kg spools). Works well at 250/110 Celsius (hotend/bed). Don't know where is produced, but I can guess is China. What else?
  5. Well, not really The fact that the plastic will ooze more at higher temperatures is one thing. On the other hand, while the printer is extruding (no matter which layer), the volume of the extruded plastic is controlled by any other parameters but temperature. It's true however that increasing the temperature can allow the plastic to slightly "expand" over expected shape and therefore producing an aspect similar to overextrusion.
  6. You can eventually use the bolt to create the nut in perhaps all 3D design programs (e.g. OpenSCAD, 123D Design, just to mention what I would recommend as an easy approach). It should be not so complicated too subtract the bolt from a hex prism of adequate size, and then scale it a bit on the XY plane, just to provide some play between the resulting nut and the bolt. Well, might not appear to be easy, but it's a way to solve the issue.
  7. Oops, why not? If you can pause the print, who prevents you from issuing adequate G-code commands to retract the existing filament and push a new one? There could be differences for Ulti G-code and "standard" G-code, but I don't think is absolutely impossible
  8. @nux You may also wanna check the knurled barrel that feeds the filament. It might be that it is "loaded" with PLA fragments and hence does not push the filament correctly.
  9. @rcarrier31 Could you please post the link to the file?
  10. Read this and see what's the best fit: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s211/sh/701c36c4-ddd5-4669-a482-953d8924c71d/1ef992988295487c98c268dcdd2d687e
  11. I would dismantle the feeder and have a very attentive look at it. There should be something abnormal there.
  12. How many topics of this kind users will have to open, and some of us to debate around? I think there are already 2-3 months since this issue has been reported. And in all situation it was about new printers. The same mysterious behavior that none of the experienced users could come to a solution. I would normally expect that UM people will post something about, at least something like "we are aware and do our best to come to a resolution, and we'll let you know about the outcome". But... :(
  13. I think there are a two correlated causes for the situation above: 1. a bit of overextrusion. Is not too much, but it is, I can see it on the vertical walls as well. 2. too hot - did you reduce the temperature while decreasing the speed?
  14. I would add: 4) The fan cooling the cold part of the hotend not working or working improperly. 5) Filament has lower/higher and/or not constant diameter.
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