xisle

Did you put the plugin's .py file in the /Contents/Resources/plugins folder contained in /Applications/.../Cura 15.04.app? If so, a restart of Cura is enough to make it usable. I'm on OS X 10.9.5 with Cura 15.04.3.

@LePaul My current UMO settings: Control->Motion->Accel: 2000 Control->Motion->Vxy-jerk: 12

The plug-in takes some time to process. I tried it on last week's contest model with starting and ending Z values of 1 and 10 respectively and it added just shy of 30 seconds (with MY current Cura settings). I never saw the "RetractWC..." text in Cura though.

There is a single jumper labeled "CARD_PWR" located close to the electronics cooling fan output. The jumper needs to be present for both boards to share power.

Same here on an iPhone and Chrome for Mac

link You might check out some of his other Research projects while there.

Go to Preferences then Settings. There is a TON of settings there

Which version of Cura are you using? You can increase the "Bottom/Top Thickness" to a multiple of "Layer Height" that works out to more printed layers when closing the top. For example, to get 6 layers on top with a layer height of 0.2, use bottom/top thickness of 1.2. If your layer height was 0.12 with the same bottom/top thickness of 1.2, you'd get 10 layers closing the top surface.

I recently found that applying a small amount of water first, then using the glue stick all over the bed followed by a clean cloth yields more consistent results.

I get that when the nozzle is a bit too close for a given first layer height. I regularly use 0.12 for first layer height on my UMO with no HBK. Makes for a smoother bottom when using Kapton tape and a thin layer of glue.

http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/15.10/

Correct.

Are you referring to the room temperature of "20-something"? The hotend and bed are not actually on at that time.

The first layer or two of the bottom of a bridge won't have a smooth connection between each x/y pass since they droop and won't stick together. I often cut a few of the strings off to clean up the bottom if the span is great enough to warrant it.

The support broke off very easily with a 0.2mm gap..

The settings you used should work. Is there a gap in the layer view? Does it actually print the gap? Maybe there's another reason it's sticking. I model critical sections with 0.1mm or 0.2mm z-axis resolution from the base depending on the layer height I plan to print at. If you use 0.2mm resolution that allows for 0.1 or 0.2mm layers with proper alignment. So, I personally would not leave a 0.25mm gap, but rather 0.2mm. Imagine a feature in your model starting at 1.0mm. If you use a first layer height of 0.3 and a layer height of 0.2 that feature will not begin where you modeled it. I keep this in mind while modeling and changing settings in Cura.

What gap did you leave between the custom support and model? That is the gap you will likely want to use in Cura. I just did something similar recently and built a slightly slanted plane from bed to bridge bottom and left a 0.2mm gap. It spanned 160mm and was quite thin.

Mini ITX case - 193 x 196 x 116mm Had some printer issues during the print but since it took 20 hours and it's a first computer for an 8 year old, it will suffice

I check the Z height of the sphere in Cura and "Cut-off Bottom" in Advanced settings to sink half the sphere into the bed, then rotate 180 degrees to print the other half (unless the sphere is identical on both hemispheres). Sometimes I cut off an extra 0.1mm or so to account for the glue. I also strategically cut off the bottom of parts that don't have a planar bottom surface or that were modeled with a slight rotation. Off the top of my head, Raptor and Baryonyx claws were the last objects I split and glued. I much prefer that method to supports or raft.

I thought his start.gcode looked ok..? I did question the E values we can't see after the M117 though.

Scaling is one thing Cura <=15.04.2 didn't handle nicely IMO. The new Cura does not have the same eternal delay as @cloakfiend describes.

I also make a lot of one-off parts that can't be bought, mostly mechanical - spacers, hangers, brackets, clips. I don't open a toolbox or dig through scraps looking for solutions any more, but rather 3D model and print what I want (and occasionally need). I do the same for friends and customers whose eyes light up when they see a 3D printer in action - they are the ones who "get it"

Are you using the Volumetric or Marlin version of RepRap GCode? I don't have a UM2 so I couldn't do any testing.

I recently tried Atomic Filament with good results. They have free shipping in the US.

I printed a few items at 0.02 when I first got my UMO and didn't know what I was doing. It worked fine but is unnecessary and too time consuming.