daveholbrook

Looks like it's sorted (some how). I've updated the firmware to the latest version and problem has gone. Thanks for your help. Dave

Thanks reibuehl. I've got into where the temp sensor is seated and made sure everything is in properly. When i go to "heatup nozzle" i get a reading of 26°C/0°C. If i then click on this and increase the desired temperature the measured value steadily builds up, goes beyond the desired temp by around 10% and then settles back down. This works with no issues. Even at temperatures above 230°C. The error message comes when i select "Insert Material". The machine will go through the process of heating the nozzle and then invites you to insert the material as the feeder kicks in. This lasts for about 10 seconds and then i get the 'ERROR - STOPPED Temp Sensor' message.

Hi, Was hoping someone could help with this one. After about a minute of the nozzle heating i get this message. I've checked all connections and everything seems fine. I've swapped the two temperature cables around but the issue still remains when heating the nozzle. Online guidelines state this would indicate a problem with the main board. Anybody know where i go from here? Thanks, Dave

Thanks everyone. I've now managed to print a successful bronzefill model (taken from thingiverse). I reduced the infill to 20% and put the speed up. I gave the nozzle a very good clean out before printing and everything went fine. Pics below. Once print was finished i sanded back with wet and dry, then used a wire brush, then scotch brite, then final polish with wire wool and brasso. Once dried i then treated the model with gilders paste before giving it a final polish. Thanks again everyone for the help. Dave

I wasn't aware of different extruded feeders? Is this the wheel which feeds the material yes? If so then I'm just u sing the standard one that was on my UM2 when I purchased it.

I'm still not sure what it is I'm doing wrong. I've done all of the settings as mentioned but am still getting under extrusion, with the annoying clicking sound as the material is failing to feed.

I'm currently trying to open a dxf pointcloud file (taken from a 3d camera, used for glass sub surface etching) and converting it into a mesh and then a printable model. I've tried lots in mesh lab and solid works but keep hitting a brick wall. Any suggestions welcome. I can also send the file if anyone's willing to have a go for me. Cheers, Dave

Thanks chaps, I know what you're saying about no need to print 100% . My only reason being was to achieve a heavy feeling model. Cheers, Dave

Sorry, I didn't give much detail on my settings (screenshot below). also forgot to mention that i'm attempting a 100% infill model. I have cleaned the nozzle after clogging, but what is the "atomic method"? Thanks, Dave

I'm still attempting to get a decent print with bronzefill, and after a couple of really frustrating weeks I thought I was there. Im printing on an UM2 at a temp of 220, with flowrate of 104%, fans of full. Everything goes fine for start of the print and then I get under extrusion for the final 25%. anyone have any ideas? very welcome. Below is an example of this. Cheers, Dave.

Wow, certainly one with talent. Looks amazingly detailed.

Looks amazing! What were all of the settings you used? I've got an UM2 and am having real problems with a successful print. I'm also trying to print similar type face scans as yours. Also, how did you get your scan? It's really high quality? Dave

Blockage gone! Didn't need to break down the head in the end, used the wire and manually feeding material repeatedly. Eventually material started flowing. Thanks everybody for your help. Dave

Yes I have tried this a few times and all I'm getting is a little bubbling comin out of the nozzle, but it's not clearing. I think I'm going to remove the whole print head as you say. Any things too watch out for or be aware of when breaking the head down? Thanks, Dave

It's an UM2. Yes I've put in pin in when hot, but it just seems the bronzefill has built up and won't shift from the nozzle. Do I need to replace the nozzle?

I've just purchased some bronzefill and had one successfully print, then my nozzle got blocked. I've tried heating too 260 but not working. Any suggestions very welcome? Thanks. Dave

Not sure if this has already been mentioned but I am having big problems with the final layer of my print (especially when the print ends at a point or peak). The printer seems to over extrude at this point resulting in a lump of unwanted material. My prints have got so much better after advice on this forum so any suggestions very welcome! Thanks

The research I've done on the "sense" doesn't seem to get too many positive reviews. If I was to go down the route of a Kinect, exactly what would I need to buy? I don't have any games consoles so am a little lost when it comes to that field. could you someone give a "shopping list" for a budget Kinect scanner? Thanks, Dave

Has anybody had any experience with any of these, or has anyone got one? I've seen results of prints that have come from 3D cameras and they are great, but these are from cameras costing into the thousands of £'s. Can the small hand held and home 3D scanners on the market, which range up to about £1000, actually produce decent results? Cheers, Dave

Thanks everyone, I will be printing a few over the next week. I'll upload photos if successful. Again, thank you all! David

Hi, I've had my Ultimaker 2 for around 3 months now and have only really printed small high quality models. I'm about to print some floor plans (as shown in the image) and wondered if anyone had any experience in similar sort of prints and/or suggestions on what would be the best sort of settings for such a print. I just wanted some advice as to what may be good settings for large thin/tall walled prints, to get me started on a first print and then I can adjust and tweak from there. Thanks, David

Also, the elephants foot problem has completely gone by setting the build plate temp to 50 - 60.

Thanks Robert and gr5. my fans seem to be on when the print is going but if I go into tune I can then turn them upto 100% which has a noticeable increase. Should I leave them at 100% for the entire print? If not then is there anyway of setting them to come on when I require them at certain layers? Thanks, Dave

Hi, I'm trying to print the best quality test print I can (for my dissertation) on my Ultimaker 2. Below shows images of current best effort along with the settings im using. Any suggestions of how to make this print better would be much appreciated. Main issues I can see are: bubbling on the top face, and the bottom has a noticeable ridge on it and then dips in before coming back square along the sides. Thanks

I've successfully printed M10, M8 and even M4. However the M4 holes did require an M4 plug tap run down them but after that they were fine, and the tap located perfect.These were all done on an ultimaker 2 using just the high quality settings on Cura.