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twistx

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Everything posted by twistx

  1. I think others have recommended using a bigger nozzle size for woodfill, otherwise clogging is inevitable.
  2. I didn't even think the glass could be the problem so I never checked it. I'll take a closer look at the glass and axis rods this weekend. All these little gremlins are getting the better of me. Thanks for the feedback.
  3. Bought a flex3drive kit today to fit on my UM2. I'll give Erik's design a try.
  4. Advantage being you turn one less knob? In theory three points work fine, until your plate or spring are not completely square. My bed is not even between the back corners, and rather than spend hours trying to get mediocre calibration I can use four points to fine tune by adjusting each independantly. For example, my original has a four point bed and despite the wood platform being badly warped I never had a problem calibrating it's height.
  5. Has anyone tried this? It looks like it might be a simple job. This is what I'm thinking... remove the whole Z platform/carriage/bed. Remove the heated bed from the Z platform. Remove glass clips from the heated bed. Use the heated bed to mark the Z platform where the two corner screws hold the rear glass clips in place. Drill out the holes, reassemble with some longer screws in the corners and one additional spring. Now you have four point calibration. I can get the flat head socket screws and springs from mcmaster-car, not sure about the round thumb screw/nut thing though. Where could I source one of those? Can anyone poke any holes in this plan before I go ahead and try it?
  6. Brown circles? That is odd. I just took mine apart and I don't see anything like that. Can you tell if your heatsinks are still attached? I had to reattach one of mine with some thermal adhesive. The original UM had a fan for the electronics below but I didn't see any under the UM2 which was surprising so maybe it'll help.
  7. @Dim3nsioneer I do and I tried that too. I've done the atomic cleaning a few times. Recently took the nozzle off and used a torch to burn out anything left on the inside. Brasso'd the inside to a shine and I could see nothing was in there. I'm convinced its not an issue with the nozzle being clogged but too much friction feeding material.
  8. Odd. I have my printer sitting on some packing foam to reduce vibration noise. The Z stepper is in direct contact with it too but I haven't had any issues, and I haven't checked the temp of it either. I can never seem to find a definitive answer about heat and how it affects the steppers. Are there no trim pots on the stepper controllers on the UM2? (I should take my control board off and look but I'm lazy I had no idea you could do this through software until I started sorting out issues with mine. I turned my ultimaker original pots down until the motors ran cool and quiet.
  9. @Dim3nsioneer Manually pushing PLA through is no problem initially but after I stop one of these failed cylinders it its very difficult to move it any further. Which is probably why it fails in the first place. I'm getting the same results now as I was before I replaced the bowden and all of the other parts. I don't think the issue is with the feeder now. @Solid I didn't replace the teflon. Although last time I had it out I measured it with my calipers and the top end is around 3.25mm and the bottom is 3.08mm. PLA moved through it freely but depending on the angle of the bowden the holes dont always line up and I have to mess with the tube to get it feed past that point. Was the one you replaced deformed? I'm working with the idea that the angle of the tube is creating resistance when the print head moves around. Thankfully I can print slowly with only a little underextrusion. I'm hoping Arjan's setup will reduce or eliminate this problem.
  10. After taking the nozzle off, breaking and fixing the sensor, cleaning the nozzle interior with some brasso as someone else had suggested (it was nice and shiny inside), i replaced the bowden with a new one. Nothing has seemed to help so far. I notice three distinct points of resistance when feeding filament, one is at the intake of the bowden where the retaining clip is, second is the second retaining clip on the hot end, third is where the bowden meets the ptfe spacer. Since I've pretty much eliminated the nozzle as the issue, I'm considering printing Arjan's design with the rails. Currently I'm using Robert's design but as you can see from my prints I'm having absolutely no luck.
  11. Hey Solid thanks for documenting this. I ended up pulling the sensor out with a screw so I picked up a dremel and removed the sensor like you showed. Soldiered the leads back on, wrapped the whole thing in a layer of kapton, then aluminum foil to make a good fit in the port, then another a last layer of kapton just in case. Hooked it all back up and its working great. Probably need to PID tune again cause it overshoots a bit but I should be back up and printing tonight.
  12. Nice job. Check this one off the list.
  13. Can you swap the controllers around? Move your Z controller to the X axis and visa versa. Should help to narrow down the issue.
  14. Korneel, any clicking or chewed up filament while printing? Are you using the stock spool holder? Have you tried the atomic cleaning method mentioned in this thread?
  15. Well I figured out how to get the sensor out. Found a screw about the same size as the port and screwed it in so it was tight and used it for leverage to pull the sensor out with some pliers.
  16. Oh, I imagined it was happening during a z move. I did have a stepper problem on my original and found it had a small slice in one of the wires leading to the controller. It was barely visible but it was causing intermittent problems.
  17. Haven't had this happen myself but have you applied some of the grease that came with your machine to the screw? When the z motor let's go after a print my bed will sit at its last position but if I give it a just a little downward pressure it will slide down to its home position on its own. There should be very little friction. Also could it be some bits of PLA are stuck in the threads? It sounds like a mechanical issue more than a software one to me.
  18. Awesome! I'm interested in seeing what you pick up. I have been looking for a heated bed for my original and nothing I've found is the right size.
  19. Thanks Solid. I can't get the sensor out of the block though. Nothing to grab on to with pliers, and its too wedged in there for tweezers.
  20. Hi Rik, did you upgrade Marlin when prompted by Cura on both machines? If not, try that first. Maybe the machine that has the issue was reversed in software for some reason. If you did do that, but the extruder motor was running in reverse for both extruding and retracting directions, I would download Marlin and set the reverse option for that motor to true in the configuration file. Compile and upload the sketch. Be sure to restore the stepper leads to their original positions if you do that though. This should be the line to edit: https://github.com/daid/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/Configuration.h#L296
  21. Some of your layers look skewed. This indicates there is some slippage from a pulley or belt. Check all of the pulleys' set screws for tightness, each one at the end of the rods for the long and short belts, and the ones attached to the stepper motors. Be sure that the pulley connected directly to the stepper motor has its set screw facing the flat surface on the stepper's spindle. This is to prevent the pulley from slipping under force. After you tighten all of this down, take a sharpie marker and place a mark in each place where the pulley meets the rod. You should have a little black mark on both the pulley and the rod to show they are aligned. This way if it slips you can visually identify the problem.
  22. Pull the glass off and hold a ruler or some other straight rigid edge to the surface. If its flat then Illuminarti is probably right, you have a bowed rod or rods causing the head to rise and fall when the linear bearing is sitting near the middle of that rod. Move the head end to end from the corners on each axis with and pay attention to the middle of the rods that are spinning. Also its probably easier to clean that hair-spray off the glass with a wet paper towel rather than trying to scrape it off. I run my plate under water to clean off the glue stick occasionally. Just make sure the plate is cooled to room temp first so you don't thermally shock it and potentially cause it to crack.
  23. You won't ruin the springs by compressing them. It only really needs to be tight enough for the springs to push up on the acrylic bed. I'm not sure you'll see any deflection of the bed surface from the nozzle pressure. Test it for yourself though, print something 1mm in height around the bed perimeter, do it once with the springs loose and once with them tight. Measure the print height with your calipers. This is how I've been calibrating my bed surface.
  24. Gijs, I just had this same issue and broke my sensor at the leads. The sensor sheath is so far into the block I can't get it out with tweezers or pliers. Now I have a bad nozzle and a bad sensor. Edit: I managed to get my sensor out. Used a screw about the same size as the temp sensor diameter and screwed it in tight then took some pliers and pulled the screw along with the sensor out. So thankfully I can use this nozzle still.
  25. I was just dealing with this bed calibration issue over the weekend. My home position on the bed is lower than the back right position. After pulling the bed apart I determined that my heated aluminum plate is not completely flat for one, maybe from colliding with the print head, and the corners have different degrees of height. The middle seems to be lower than the rest. The biggest culprit though was the rear spring on my UM2. It is badly curved, effectively angling the rear of the bed in whatever direction its sitting in since there is only the one point creating a fulcrum. I rotated my rear spring so it curves on the x axis rather than the y and was able to get the height between the back corners to within 5-10/100ths of a mm. The front is no issue since there are two points to calibrate with. I understand the 3 point system is supposed to be easier but it seems very susceptible to defects especially when the Z platform and aluminum heating bed are so flimsy. The only rigid part is the glass. I didn't have this issue on my ultimaker original which had the 4 points to calibrate the corners with and a thick, rigid piece of acrylic. Even though the wood of my Z platform was extremely warped (off by 5mm on the front right corner) I could still calibrate just fine.
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