dkaygee

I cannot enter my UM2 serial number in the app because it launches the camera app and I don't have a bar code anywhere on my machine or the box it came in. Instead I have a serial number sticker on the bottom with a number that says "made in the Netherlands". On the box I have a shipping label but no serial number. I don't see any options to type the serial number in.

Thanks for the link to the topic. Fixed the error messages by properly seating the temp sensor and heater cartridge when I replaced my hot end. Back on 15.01 with no issues today - so far.

Mine is obviously out of spec based on the photos in the assembly manual. Thanks. I will have to replace this hot end with the new one that fits correctly.

The heater sticks out of the block on my UM2 by several millimeters. It just won't go in any further but the temp sensor is all the way in. Both seem to want to slide right out as well when the machine runs - there is no real friction holding them in. Any suggestions on how to get them to stay in the block - some kind of adhesive maybe ? Is it standard for the heater to stick out of the block a little bit ? I have a new hot end that i just received and if I test fit the heater into this block it still doesn't go in completely. There is metal sticking out and the heater does not appear to be warped or swollen in any way. Suggestions ?

I have a stock machine. Does that mean I really have a 'heater error' of some kind? It would be a shame not to be able to take advantage of newer features. I was running default profile slicing values when this happened with no modification to the PLA profile on the machine. My fans are quite robust and loud when they run.

I'm not sure what's going on with 15.01. I've updated to this version this morning along with the firmware but have experienced issues all day today of one kind or another. The biggest so far is a 'heater error - contact ultimaker support' error message I've received several times which stops the print head cold while the machine endlessly extrudes filament. I was able to print a couple items no problem but had to stop twice and reset on 2 different files because of the same error. The only correlation I noticed was I ran the 'change material' function each time before the error. I've rolled back to my previous version of cura 14.09 along with the firmware and so far no error messages. I'll update if it's just my machine but so far it looks like not. Mac OS X -> Ultimaker 2

Ya I guess the profiles save option is probably for slicing and not for the machines.

Awesome. Thanks! Makes more sense now. I'll play around with it. :cool:

I see some machine profiles if you right click on the cura app (MAC) and choose show package contents. Also I see that you can save the profiles from the main menu bar. Best to have a backup copy of those saved. So at worst you could just restore cura from Time Machine, open it up and save your profiles.

Nothing happened when I clicked the button. I did change the path to my SD card and that seemed to work. The path was pointing to my user folder. So the path is set to a single instance of one of my SD cards. I'll have to try to figure out what this 'replication' means I guess.

I've just installed cura 15.01 on mac os x 10.10.2. I noticed the program recognizes the SD card but the icon that you would normally click to do a quick save to the SD doesn't do anything. Just wondering if it's just me. I can always use the save GCode function so it's not a huge deal. :-)

1. ABS can be printed in high quality on the UM2. I found it a bit more tricky to get the print to stick, but once you get the settings locked in, it does well. I prefer the PLA results. 2. The UM2 does not print flexible filament well. I haven't tried a wide array, but the one's I've tried have failed due to the bowden type extruder setup. Some people have had success printing at very low speeds with this type of filament. 3. The disadvantage of 3mm filament is finding a good filament that actually will fit through the extruder. 2.85mm is the actual size needed and most generic 3mm filament just doesn't cut it. You'll need to stick with the higher quality stuff.

I haven't had much luck myself with the 'spiralize' option. However, you can make the infill 0% and then in the expert settings uncheck the 'solid infill top' and make sure you check 'solid infill bottom'. I haven't printed a vase in a few on my UM, but this is how I've done it in the past when the actual model is a solid object and I want a vase.

You should post your exact printing specs so others can suggest improvements. Temp and speed play an important role along with other settings.

Got a link for the mammoth ?

PLA parts tend to be stickier and they don't shrink as much as ABS. When people design items they can do so with this in mind or not. It just depends on the designer. With PLA screws and nuts you might have to do some post finish work such as light sanding to get your parts to fit.

I think the Rostock has nice features and flexibility that aren't present in the Ultimaker . However, if you like the build and mod of a printer, why not do it with an Ultimaker original? I have an Ultimaker 2 and it has the heated bed and that has proven to be very nice.

This one is nice https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder

The infill at 100% might be causing some warping. You could lower that significantly unless there's a reason it's so thick.

I assume by the temp that you're printing PLA? Myself, I get these thick bands when I try to print too cold. You could try increasing the temp. The temp is different with every brand of plastic and your own printing environment (ambient temp) and for me I have to test different temps whenever I get a new shipment of plastic. Have you tried the default Cura settings on a sample? It's a good base to start with. I think also I would increase your Bottom/Top thickness to like .8 or 1.0 and reduce your layer height to .1 I'm not a guru, but lately these things have been plaguing me as well.

I wasn't able to print ABS in any combination of settings that I tried until I started blocking off the front of the printer and letting it heat up for at least 30 minutes before printing. I use hairspray over ABS goo because it seems to be less messy. I spray it on a cloth and then wipe the glass surface with it. But overall, when printing ABS I definitely have to eliminate as much of the outside air as possible. I would love to have a true heated build chamber.

I had the same problem and found the screws were just loose. Maybe tightening them would help you. It helped me get rid of the awful loud buzzing.

I have a 3d systems Sense hand scanner. It works good on people and larger objects, but not too well on small objects (figurines). The price was $399 US, however the device itself is almost unusable because it is attached to a USB cable. It's nearly impossible to use when a USB cord is attached to a desktop or laptop. Many people are using a MS Surface Pro 2 tablet + Sense 3d hand scanner. The tablet is $999 so keep that in mind. The software that comes with it is still new and buggy and mostly home - user grade. Pro users would find it very primitive.

Update. It turns out working with Support was quite easy. I sent them a few pics of the damaged parts and received replacements very quickly from DHL. Everything is re-assembled and I've been printing again the past few days with no issues.

Thanks, working with Support now. We'll see what they decide. I wasn't able to free the wires from PCB. The screws holding these wires down seem to be either overtightened or welded shut. It must have been pretty hot at one point.