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  1. The only humble experience I have would be mainly Blender... and some tinkering here and there in a past education. With 3D printing in mind, what would be the pro's and cons between those two in your opinion, CAD and a 3D drawing program? The easy pull-and-push action in Google Sketchup is great, and I 'm just beginning to appreciate the possibilities of Design Spark Mechanical. Luckily some basics look similar between different 3D programs. Design Spark Mechanical seems to be a collaboration with SpaceClaim, which is kind of cool, on an introduction-event for the metallurgic industry SpaceClaim showed off there user-friendly interface...looked impressive (as was their price tag for just home-use, they did offer a free trial). ...we are so not going to clean that side
  2. Something in the range of 8 years to 16... although there might be some more veteran LAN-members (up to 40 +) having a go at it. I've seen interesting examples, going to try that one as well, thank you!
  3. 3D-Print Experience in Haarlem Doodle 3D-fish from 3D-Print Experience Last sunday I went to the 3D-Print Experience in Haarlem, an intimate event. It’s target audience: hobbyists, kids, starting enthousiasts, educational people and artists. An interesting and ambitious printer is the Zmorph, a company busy with developing a multifunctional tool which can 3Dprint several materials and carve and engrave metals too. The latter two still in development phase. It’s concept: change the printing heads for the various applications. A 3D-Chef was also present, he showed examples of objects printed in sugar. I’d like to have seen the actual machine as well though, that would have been a tasty sight. Some printers capable of printing objects with a great height, Like the Delta 3D printer, a company which claims great presicion with their kind of technology. They are working on a "production printer”, a stand-alone printer with an usb-slot. At Scanlounge you could get a 3D-picture of yourself, the visitor could step into a chamber with dozens of Canon-camera’s if I recollect it correctly. I’ve asked for the original stl-file to get our Ultimaker2 gnawing on that one... The picture will arrive in three weeks. Océ showed off their 2.5D printing a technology to create relief, with a reproduction of a Rembrandt as main attraction. If you are an illustrator adept you can join their 2point5D Design Challenge [in Dutch]. Prize: your design printed in 2.5D Ultimaker was there as well with a wall made of a few dozen printing Ultimakers. Had the pleasure to speak with one of Ultimakers employees and asked him about the release-date for the dual-extrusion for the Ultimaker2, he expected it to be a couple of months, no definite date. To be honest: I can’t wait to print with two filaments in the same time, especially with a soluble filament to be able to remove support-structures in more delicate or unaccessable prints and hungry for news about other Ultimaker developments. Lot more to see and experience. In short: left a lot hungrier than i came in Ultimaker @ LANParty The set-up Every year a bunch of friends dive into a LANparty, we’ve seen a few developments on the small event, the introduction of the LCD-monitor, the first beamers and now the 3D printer as well. Last year we hired an Ultimaker1 from a collegue, this year we got our own and brought the Ultimaker2 to the table, it hardly stopped printing, a few Ultimaker robots for the LANparty-youth, a very small scale toy-PPSh gun, and structures from Minecraft. Approval from LAN-scene Following the above experience, I am looking now for ways/ software that makes it easy for people with very little experience to design something and print it. Doodle 3D is nice. But are there other options? Easy to use software to create stl files? I’ve been looking into TinkerCAD for example, but that requires a (stable) internetconnection and can’t handle files bigger than 20 mb I believe. Nightly visit, Ultimaker2 printing tirelessly
  4. I *think* I get it. The first tests that were done with 235 degrees nozzle temperature had a lower heater-bed temperature then the recent ones. I followed the heating progress of the nozzle temperature and the heater-bed temperature on de oled-screen. If the targeted heater-bed temperature was 75 degrees, then the nozzle had already reached it's 235 degrees, while the heater-bed still was somewhere around 40 degrees. So the PLA started to ooze. If there was nothing to force the melted plastic down, it seemed to cook and expand in volume at the tip of the nozzle.
  5. That could be an option, we already have been looking in anticipation to some solutions on YouMagine With new settings the stone printed with almost no under-extrusion, save for one line that under-extruded partially, nearing the end of completion. brim: 35 lines, layer hight: 0,25, printing speed: 50 mm/s printing temperature: 235 C heaterbed temperature 40 C There are some issues with the surface, but right now that's another story. Made some more tests today with 235 degrees nozzle temperature compared to 210. This time the nozzle oozed PLA before the bar was full, I didn'nt experience that earlier with the extrusion tests of 235 degrees. The thread that was laid down to start the job was a bit blotchy. I had trouble with one job to get a good bottom layer: nothing came out at all. Followed it up with a 210 degrees job to see if that worked normally, which it did: I'm not sure if I'll use a temperature of 235 degrees again for this very filament.
  6. After printing several jobs overnight, we got confident enough to print the stone for 'Project Egg'. The longest and highest print we made so far. The set-up: an UM2 with vaseline lubricated original spoolholder, the original glue on the glass plate, Ultimaker PLA White. The settings: brim: 35 lines, layer hight: 0,15, printing speed: 50 mm/s printing temperature: 210 C heaterbed temperature 60 C After watching and grooming* the first few layers, the job was left unattended and under-extrusion ocurred. While approaching the point where the object curved inwards, more severe under-extrusion happend. We decided to print slower and adjusted the printing speed to 35 mm/s, the first few layers went well and we went to bed. The result next morning: For a few centimeters, during the outward curve, the surface is consistent...after that, under-extrusion, lightening up like a city-night-view in de shade. Worse: the object is weakened along some of those lines, not quite a building block... We are still in the learning curve, I already discarded another job for the same stone because of this issue. Remembering the tips on the fora: thank Illuminarti for the extrusion test The cilinders on pictures 1 to 4 are unattended, the cilinder on picture 5 has been 'groomed' into submission, the cilinder on picture 6, broke loose from the glue on the glass plate during printing. (Allthough of little meaning in the under-extrusion series, number 6 plays a part in another issue we are experiencing: inward curving of the profile of the first view layers, which might be related to the heater bed temperature.) The way the filament is fed into the feeder mechanism influences the flow from the nozzle of our UM2: right now it seems that with the current set-up, (except for the first view layers) the chance of getting a good, unattended print of the stone would be bigger around 5 or 6 mm3, at 235 C, heater bed temperature of 40 C, layer hight of 0,25 mm. As we have little experience with an overnight PLA print with those temperatures, I'd might prefer to go lower and slower... This has been a great lesson to get some insight in the settings and their workings, a few more cilinders will certainly be printed, the exam will be a decent stone. * grooming: checking and adjusting the tension of the filament into the feeder manually.
  7. Never tried it myself, but found this article: http://www.3dprinterclassifieds.com/blog/2013/02/using-acetone-vapor-to-smooth-abs-3d-printed-parts/ If ever experimenting with that, I wouldn't use that inside the house.
  8. We had somewhat the same issue, it happened after cleaning the glass plate, then we discovered we had the glass-plate upside-down --> warning sticker down on heaterbed), putting 'the right side up' strangely resolved the issue for us. I put the glass plate upside down on our table, it wobbled a bit. (Or our table isn't super-flat). It could have been a leveling issue. No conclusion yet...
  9. Thank you very much! Request for a stone has been made as well.
  10. Awesome project! What would the average dimensions and weight per stone be?
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