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tommy-gunn

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Everything posted by tommy-gunn

  1. I just downloaded the latest cura i was looking at machine settings but it does not give me the option for my bed size.. I have prusa rework printer. Thanks! Tommy
  2. yes i i do have .35 i build my prusa so it's not an ultimaker i don't have bowen. i dont need brim my prints are glass are rock solid. that was slowed down i had it a twice the speed. but i will try even slower... i think you may be right about the wall .7 the reason i had temp high was because i was printing abs. as far as retraction i get no blob or drips. Thanks
  3. i have developed tiny bumps and some tiny loops on my prints. I dont know wher this came from my print were very clean before. my firmwre has not changed. i upgraded to the lastest version of cura 14.07 i print from sd with my lcd screen. using .35 nozzle this is what i normally print like https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uce85vk8yj52mpp/AABa7PFMfEifSGPKxkp_oy2aa Quad copter arm. Phone case. and now this is my problem Bumps on legs loops on sword. well here is my profile for cura let me know id you see something off. layer_height = 0.1 wall_thickness = .5 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = 0.5 fill_density = 50 nozzle_size = 0.35 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 235 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 60 support = None platform_adhesion = None support_dual_extrusion = Both wipe_tower = False wipe_tower_volume = 15 ooze_shield = False filament_diameter = 2.85 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100.0 retraction_speed = 40.0 retraction_amount = 3.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 retraction_min_travel = 1.5 retraction_combing = True retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02 retraction_hop = 0.0 bottom_thickness = 0.25 layer0_width_factor = 100 object_sink = 0.0 overlap_dual = 0.15 travel_speed = 60 bottom_layer_speed = 20 infill_speed = 50 inset0_speed = 25 insetx_speed = 25 cool_min_layer_time = 7 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 1 skirt_gap = 3.0 skirt_minimal_length = 150.0 fan_full_height = 0.5 fan_speed = 0 fan_speed_max = 0 cool_min_feedrate = 10 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 15 support_type = Grid support_angle = 60 support_fill_rate = 15 support_xy_distance = 0.7 support_z_distance = 0.15 spiralize = False simple_mode = False brim_line_count = 10 raft_margin = 5.0 raft_line_spacing = 3.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 1.0 raft_interface_thickness = 0.27 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4 raft_airgap = 0.22 raft_surface_layers = 2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = (lp1 . object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1 Thanks! Tommy
  4. I changed walls to .5 that seemed to do the trick. Yes nozzle setting and filament was measured 2.85 annd set.
  5. Ok I print with heat bed 65c Nozzle is 215c so there is no setting to make lines closer together or future apart? On the layers? Yes I have a goo squish if it squished flat any more I would get a jam. What is the recommend setting for .35 nozzle I used to get great prints with .4 nozzle Thanks
  6. Hi i just just changed my nozzle type down to a .35 on my bottom layer i am getting a "tiny bit of spacing between each line how do i close the tiny gap between each line? i want a solid smooth bottom with no gaps. Thanks Tommy
  7. Ok I I will turn it off bit I have printed the exact same thing with no issues. I will try without and see what happens
  8. ok i didnt use % sign i just put in numbers 20 40 50 70 100 here is the g code https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6dQZ8ooyMRyQlEydTEzS3YtUTA/edit?usp=sharing'>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6dQZ8ooyMRyQlEydTEzS3YtUTA/edit?usp=sharing'>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6dQZ8ooyMRyQlEydTEzS3YtUTA/edit?usp=sharing'>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6dQZ8ooyMRyQlEydTEzS3YtUTA/edit?usp=sharing here is the profile setings.. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6dQZ8ooyMRyQlEydTEzS3YtUTA/edit?usp=sharing was printing ok then it stopped connecting to laptop to i put files on sd card and was printing ok then the print was not looking right so i bumped the infill up and then i got the hollow and now all my objects print hollow.
  9. Ok I will try it Thanks I think reverting to older version of cura may have resolved my z axis issue.
  10. It was 14.01 no I did not play with any other settings. I have gone back to 13.10 and it is printing fine. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84271
  11. Because cura has a cap for 3mm filament I think it 120.
  12. I am having same problem I can put 10% 40% 80% ans I still get empty shell with know good model.
  13. Yes m119 was trying to test out my end stops before printing Yes I am using marlin I was pronterface today I want to see how well my calibration I have to use pronter just to be able to have live code input. But I was test to see how fast my printer could go.. Started with m220 s100 then s150 s175 s200 I was around s280 I did not want to really push it but my print was clean edges sharp I was doing a 40 mm fan mount adapter the had sharp corners circles hole infill a Jump to the second part horizontal holes all the things for real world test. So I went to cura to input speed 200 it said it was not possible to print at that speed so I will not let you put those numbers in. ...what is up with that? What I would like to see is a way I can manually put my gcode in a command line like pronterface I can heat up my bed faster, turn fans off and on, speed up print in certain section or slow then down using m220 etc.
  14. Ok sorry been away first it a prusa i3. With ramps 1.4 home built. I have tried it with pronterface and no problems I found a older profile which I loaded up now and the older profile it can print but still on occasions it will continue the same past issues so what I do now is a bit of a pain but I do it to use cura. Load old profile configure old profile Is auto home level bed then raise z .9 mm set temp hit print. Works.. I had tried doing a "new machine" redid all settings but that did not work. My auto home starts at left corner nearest to you.. How can I set it up manually so that I don't need to use the z end stop? Oh is there also a way to use m modes like m119 or m220 beer or during the print? Thanks Tonmy
  15. How do I input codes like m220 or m119 before I start printer or during? Thanks Tommy
  16. I am having a problem with my z axis it was alway working fine. Then one ny next print i did auto home like i normally do it did that little bounce and set itself correctly. I waited for everything to heat up the when the temp was right and the gcodes kicked in (checking the g28) x and y was good but the z did not do the bounce instead it continues to go negative squishing the z endstop till it can go no more then it tries to print. pressing and scrapping the glass. I have swapped out the step drivers same issue i also swapped out the endstop. it works fine if i hit auto home on my lcd. it's when it starts to print the second autohome from the gcode it messes up. any ideas? It not the endstop u can do auto home all day and every day and it will stop on a dime, it only with cura where it continues sqaushing down on the endstop till it cant go any futher., Tommy
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