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mgg

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Everything posted by mgg

  1. it really depends on the type of polyurethane. There are thermosetting polyurethanes which do not melt but only decompose. I would be really careful heating up unknown material, as these polymers can have dangerous decomposition products
  2. Maybe this can be of help: http://voltivo.com/blog/ultimaker-3d-printer-calibration in combination with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195604
  3. Simplify3D in this case will probably not give you any better results. You definitely have more control in terms of print settings, but this part should be easy to print. However, in Simplify3D you have the following settings for supports: - you can apply support based on overhang angle and also add/remove them manually - you can define support infill, pillar resolution - define horizontal offsets from parts
  4. Thanks everyone! I dont want to apply it for any food related stuff. I am testing new materials and want to be sure that I dont have any corrosion problems. Some polymers produce small amounts of acids upon decomposition.
  5. Ah this might be possible, too. Thanks! Is there any official document where I can look this up?
  6. Hi, what materials are in contact with molten filament? I know that the nozzle is made of brass and the extruder of PTFE, but are there any other materials in contact with hot filament? Bests, MGG
  7. I use another clip, also from youmagine. They are available in different sizes. I used 2.5 mm and it works perfectly fine. Definitely an improvement regarding oozing. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bowden-locking-clamp-clip
  8. Simplify3D has additional settings for speed reductions such as: - Layer - First Layer Settings - First Layer Speed - Cooling - Speed Overrides - Allow speed reductions down to ... % - Other - Speeds - Outline Underspeed - Other - Bridging - Bridging speed multiplier Maybe you have "hidden" speed reductions and that is why your prints take longer? Another factor might be the Other - Speeds - X/Y Axis Movement Speed (Movement without printing). This is set lower in Simplify3D (I think standard settings are 50mm/s or so) than in Cura (150mm/s). If you want to be sure about speed settings
  9. I use different settings for printing ABS. I actually never change the temperatures. - 260°C extrusion and 90°C bed - ABS/Acetone for adhesion to the glass plate - the first 5 layers (~0,5mm) fan off, then linearly increase the fan speed to 100% (~1mm) This works for me for print speeds of 20-75mm/s and layer heigths of 0,02 to 0,1 mm. I have good layer bonding (watertight structures) because of the high extrusion temperature.
  10. Thank you for the replies. I also noticed that Cura uses 15% infill overlap so that the outline and infill connect properly. This could lead to too much material next to the bores. Another factor is the slicing software. I used Simplify3D as a slicer with the exact same settings I used in Cura. The holes with diameters smaller than 1.5mm were still plugged, but the over extrusion (too much material) did not occur. So there might be the possibility to solve this issue in the slicer. One approach is a strech algorithm. I havnt looked into it in detail, did anyone already try that? https://git
  11. Hi, I have a problem with prints of small tubular structures. The tubes dimensions are between 0.4 to 2 mm in diameter. They are oriented vertically on the buildplate. Laying the structure in horizontally is not an option. Below a diameter of 2 mm the tubes are clogged. You can see that the printer is printing circles where the outer diameter should be, but the filament fills the inside of the tube. Due to this problem, there is too much filament at these points. You can see this problem in the first picture . The tubes have the following diameters from left to right: 0,4mm 0,6mm 0,8mm
  12. Nice to hear people are trying the same! What temperatures did the pt100 record?
  13. I dont want to go that high, about 300°C. Printing with fluoropolymers would be nice (PTFE, FEP...) but they have even higher melting temperatures. I'm pretty sure the temperature sensors (Pt100) should be able to handle these temperatures, but I'm also not sure about the heater cartridge. Unfortunately the printhead blueprints are not available yet.
  14. I meant that its melting temperature is as low as 60 °C, I would definitely set the nozzle temperature higher. I though someone could share the experiments and the settings used to print.
  15. Hi, the maximum nozzle temperature of the UM2 is said to be 260°C. Is there a chance to go higher than that? I know some nylon parts are included in the printhead, but if they were replaced is a higher temperature technically possible?
  16. Which temperature setting would you use with a melting temperature of 60 °C?
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