Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Je kunt met CURA de gcode bestuderen en zien of de lagen correct worden geprint. Je kunt zelf in de gcode zoeken naar de opdracht de z-as een laagje op te schuiven. Je kunt voor de zekerheid de z-as nog eens smeren en een aantal keren op-en-neer bewegen.
  2. It shouldn't be too difficult to find suppliers in your country. When searching for 'Neoceram nederland' I found 2 possible suppliers both active in the heater / furnace area. I guess also the name Robax and/or Vitroceram are used for the same.
  3. Kies in Expert: Switch to full settings. Dan in tab Advanced staat onder Speed: Infill speed (mm/s)
  4. In Cura (2.3.1) I can export a material as a .xml.fdm_material file. I am not successfull in importing such file to add a new material. What is the correct procedure to create / change and import a material file?
  5. Ben benieuwd naar de mogelijkheden voor printen met 2 materialen bij een UMO+. (Ook al gaat het over de UM3 ;-) ).
  6. Wauw! What a silent machine I got! I exchanged the drivers for the X and Y axis only, and now the noise of the (SilentFan) is the 'only' noise I hear. On purpose I did not replace the drivers for the Z and E1/E2 motors. At Vref=0.8 the motors did not move stable, now at Vref=1.2 the print is running smoothly. I exchanged the wire positions for the X and Y motors as described by @mariuszem. This way I can at all times still use the firmware as delivered with CURA. @ataraxis : thank you so much for making my UMO a more user-friendly machine!
  7. There seems to be a problem with the selection within the category. When you select the catagory and call it up in a separate tab, it shows "404 not found". Stripping all tekst in the URL starting with the question-mark gives a decent list of subjects. Any selection from the "Latest", "All Topics" shows the "404 Not found" message. So probably nothing wrong with the Firefox cache. Most likely its the forum server's software:(
  8. However this may not be a solution, would it be possible to increase the thickness of the bottom and top layer? This should be considered as a workaround, not a solution, but I guess the wedding will not wait for your beautifull plate to be ready.
  9. And to bring in some light in the dark: How does your tweek look like? (maybe you can show with the line before and after the fan-line)
  10. Unfortunately the links to the original pictures don't work anymore. ekh: your analysis could be right. So I made 2 cylinders 2.5 cm high. One 'as usual', the second with a load of 450 g at the backside of the buildplate. As the banding problem has been much reduced already, not much difference is seen, if any. Still your analysis is correct: without much force the buildplate can be rotated is (very) little, so when the friction comes from the left and right axis, the plate could lower in an irregular pattern. This could mean that the design would have to be changed to a setup having two screws. Difficult to realise in the existing UMO, but worth considering for future design. So now the big question remains: how can it be sure that the buildplate lowers regularly and remains perfectly horizontal?
  11. Coen, first of all: beautifull design! But about the problem:: from the first 1 pictures it is seen that the blue tape is often used, and maybe worn out. The banding is in the same direction as the taperuns. So could you replace the tape (everywhere) and make a first layer to see whether the band still exists?
  12. Gr5, thanks for your comment. I apologize for this late reaction. I looked at your advise to create my own formware, but I was reluctant doing this not knowing how this firmware would work together with each Cura version. On the other hand I made a separate wire from the fan connection at the electronic board beneath the bottom of the printer all the way to the fan at the printhead, which is lead at the outside of the printer and spiralized at the outside around the bowden tube. This works perfect! At any fan speed the temperature reading is constant AND when I bring the wire close (I mean close!) to the wire from the temperature sensor to the small pcb om top of the printhead, also the temperature reading is NOT influenced.
  13. Interesting! Could the temperature noise be related to the item described in fan-speed-influences-reading-temperature-hot-end (and links)? Could you post a picture indicating where you soldered the capacitor?
  14. A long time after working (not solving) on the reported banding problem (https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/view/5901-undesired-horizontal-ridges-on-regular-distance?page=1#reply-44932) I took my printer (Ultimaker-1) again to produce some prints. The prints using flexible polyester looked fine enough, but - same as for former prints using PLA - the layer bonding had to be improved. So I thought of decreasing the fan speed, which was till now kept at 100%. For this decreased fan speed I found the print was of very low quality, worse than before and made me think of hot-end temperatures lower than the one set. So I started to investigate. And yes, the temperature reading is strongly influence by the fan speed. I set the fan speed on the Ultimaker controller and quickly changed back to the main screen to read the reported temperature. Most of the times the reading was more than 10 'C higher than the set value. In a former discussions (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6307-um-1-temperature-jumps-with-fan) and (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6254-ultimaker-1-maxtemp-triggered-by-cooling-fan) it was mentioned that the wire connected to the fan had to be kept at a distance of minimal 10 mm from the wires coming directly from the thermocouples. This is impossible to realise as long as these wires all are through the upper part of the printhead. So the fan wire had to be taken out of the printhead and be given a route outside of this head. To accomplish this I had to dismantle the head, and I decided to finally install the second hot-end, which I had on the shelf for a long time already. After a lot of work, the print head with the dual hot-end was assembled. Now I could find whether the distance between the fan wire and the wires from the thermocouples was an improvement for the temperature reading. For the measuring, the fan was disconnected to start with, and connected after setting the fan speed with the Ultimaker controller. I noted the reported stabilised temperature at 0% fanspeed, then set the fan speed to a number (0..255) and then - after switching to the main screen - connected the fan shortly. The reported temperature did not depend on the set fan speed, but changed immediately after connecting the fan. In table form (lines reported in the sequence as tested): Fan temperature speed set read 0 250 250 2 250 246 4 250 249 8 250 249 20 250 249 30 250 263 40 250 267 50 250 267 70 250 264 99 250 258 (MAXTEMP) after restart: 100 250 267 (MAXTEMP) after restart: 255 250 250 125 250 264 151 250 264 175 250 262 200 250 263 225 250 261 240 250 250 250 250 250 235 250 250 230 250 250 225 250 262 227 250 260/252 (quick variation) 225 250 264/259 (quick variation) (Sorry for the bad lay-out, I could not create a decent table. A list is showing bad as well....) It is clear that between 25 and 230 a great difference exists between the 'real' temperature and the reported one. The conclusion thus can be that a distance of more than 10 mm between the fan wires and the wires from the thermocouples is NOT solving the problem. It is also not worsening... So I twisted the fan wires to prevent signals to be sent from the wires. This had the same results as reported above. Next I layed the printer on its side and after disconnecting the fan from the printhead connected it directly to the electronics in the bottom of the printer. And YES! The temperature was stable for all fanspeeds when the fan was connected directly to the electronics. To check, the connection was made as original, where the fan was connected through the long original wiring at the print head, and the reported temperature was deviating as in the table again. So the conclusion can be that the long wiring from the electronics in the bottom of the printer to the printhead influences in some way the reported temperature. How can I get a long wire (1.50 m) with the right connectors to connect the fan directly to the electronics and give this wire a separated route?
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!