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prb4

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Everything posted by prb4

  1. To me it appears as though the bed is too far from the nozzle. The first layer needs to squash flat to stick to the bed.
  2. Thanks for the reply. What I have to loose is about £200 on a copy of windows 10. If it doesn't work on Windows 10 then I would put windows 8 on it which is much cheaper, hence it would be good to know if anyone has tried Cubify Invent on Windows 10.
  3. I currently use Cubify Invent and find it ideal for what I need to model. I'm looking at getting a new PC, does anyone know if it works on Windows 10? Thanks
  4. prb4

    Faberdashery

    Odd, we obviously have very different perspectives. I have found Faberdashery to be much cheaper and produces great prints. I also have many more problems with spooled filament than I ever have with the unspooled filament from Faberdashery. They could improve the consistency of supply though, it is annoying when colours are out of stock for weeks.
  5. prb4

    Faberdashery

    That was my thought too. It's a shame because I like their filament most.
  6. prb4

    Faberdashery

    I've been waiting for Faberdashery to restock on several colours for months but no colours are coming back into stock and those that are in stock just seem to reduce. I've tried e-mailing and phoning them but get no reply. Does anyone know what's happening with them? Thanks
  7. That's under-extrusion. Most likely caused by a blocked nozzle. You need to do some atomic pulls to clean the nozzle.
  8. Innofil3D pro 1 PLA It's been around a while and the marketing blurb claims its brilliant and can be printed a lot faster than normal PLA. It's recently been recommended to me by someone who is probably biased. So has anyone done any comparison tests of Innofil3D pro 1 PLA versus "normal" PLA (whatever that is)? I would be particularly interested to hear of the results of any comparison tests against other leading brands. Peter
  9. Regardless of whether support is provided or not, printing from SD card remains essential. Most of the time my PC is not even on when the printer is printing. Incidentally none of my Ultimaker printers has wifi connectivity, nor is USB printing recommended by Ultimaker for them, including for the recently purchased one.
  10. Printing from an SD card is certainly not a "remnant from the past". My printers are not next to my PC and I print on more than one printer at a time. The SD card is essential.
  11. I am not sure it is wise to be recommending 3DHubs these days given their recent business attitude? UM2+ would be my choice, the complexity of a UM3 is unnecessary expense for creating this part. I would second the 0.25 mm nozzle though if dimensional accuracy is most important.
  12. Hi Mine works fine, but I did find a higher temperature was required. Try adjusting your normal print temperature up or down 5 or 10 degrees. Peter
  13. Excellent, thank you for the comprehensive reply. I'll give these a go and see what makes a difference.
  14. Hi Sander Thank you for the reply. A number points. Firstly, the printers work great most of the time and always have done (with regular maintenance). They are great machines (that's why I keep buying more instead of a different brand) and don't actually need much maintenance. I've looked at your Maintenance schedule, obviously that is for an Ultimaker 3 and I only have 2+. However assuming the schedule is similar then I largely do follow those recommendations already. I do regularly lubricate the rods. Things I haven't done, I have never cleaned the threaded Z screw (but I do lubricate it), nor replaced the Bowden tube. Also I haven't disassembled the feeder to clean it, I just blow air into it although I can't say I ever notice debris falling out. So my questions would be. 1. Why change the Bowden tube every year? What is the reason for this? 2. How should I be cleaning the feeder? Do I need to disassemble it? 3. Yes all the printers have black dust under the belts. So the same question as Shurik, should I be doing something about this? 4. The oldest printer doesn't seem to produce prints quite as good as the newer ones. It's difficult to say exactly what it is. Probably the most obvious difference is a vertical flat wall appears slightly less smooth, i.e. the print lines are slightly more visible. Any idea what might be the cause of that? Perhaps I should try to clean the Z-screw and feeder? (I have recently changed the coupler, nozzle, brass heating block and lowered the acceleration from 3000 to 1500). Thanks Peter
  15. Hi I have four Ultimaker 2+ printers, one of which is an upgrade from a 2. They range in age from 6 months to over 3 years They all print most of the time, all day everyday. Obviously I would expect parts to age and need to be changed after a few years, however I haven't ever seen any advice on this. Can anyone recommend how often parts need to be changed? Or even which parts are likely to need replacement first? I'm not talking about the more frequent, semi-consumable parts like the nozzle and coupler which do need changing more frequently. For instance, when should I be thinking about changing the belts? I only print in PLA, but is the feeders knurled sleeve ever likely to need replacing? There must be other parts that need considering too? Thanks for any insights Peter
  16. I would really like to use the adaptive layer heights on my prints but to do so it would need to work with multiple different models on the bed. I would expect the layer heights on one model to be different to the layer heights on another model. I could accept that it perhaps doesn't work optimally in this situation. For example, if the layer height was allowed to vary between 0.2 and 0.05 mm. But the step change was limited to 0.025 mm. i.e, the only available steps were, 0.05, 0.075, 0.1, 0.125, 0.15, 0.175, 0.2. In this way the layer height are always multiples of each other and I would expect it to be much easier to work out which model to print at which height at any given layer. I appreciate it is much easier to ask for a feature like this than to implement, however I would find it very useful and it would improve the print quality a lot without wasting lots of time unnecessarily. Thanks
  17. I can see that the adaptive layers feature might be useful for me. I nearly always print several different models at the same time. Some would need adaptive layers and some would not. Will Cura only use adaptive layers on the models that need it? Or is the layer height adjusted for the whole layer including models that don't need it? Thanks Peter
  18. Hi Neotko That's a useful insight. All 3 printers are using the 0.4 mm nozzle originally supplied with the printer. Perhaps this suggests that the bottom of the nozzle on the new printer is not perfectly flat. I could take a file to it but unless I was able to file very accurately I suspect I would only make matters worse. What I do find strange is that parts of the top surface look perfect and other parts don't. Thanks Peter
  19. Hi fergazz Thank you for the link but that information is old, it was available before the feature was released in Cura. I would be interested to hear how you get on with Cura ironing particularly if you have an Ultimaker 2+. As I said in my original post, I have had mixed results depending on which printer I am using. I can improve the results on the worst printer by modifing the profile for that printer.
  20. I find it difficult to post pictures. However I am not asking for someone to solve my particular problem. I would like to hear of anyone elses experience of using ironing? It would also be good to hear anyones thoughts on why one printer is just not as good at ironing as the others? Peter
  21. I was wondering what other peoples experience of Neosanding / ironing has been? Generally I have found it works well, however not always. I have three Ultimaker 2+ printers. On two of the printers at 0.1 layers ironing is great almost every time. On the third printer I have a lot of problems. The ironing process doesn't leave as nice a surface finish. There are areas which are perfect and areas which have small holes. I know it isn't the model I am printing or the settings because the other two printers work great with the same gcode. I haven't been able to work out what it is about the third printer (and newest) that is different to the other two. Hence the question, what have other peoples experiences been of Neosanding / ironing? And to pass on more of my experience, all three printers struggle with ironing when I use 0.2 mm layers. Indeed I have decided to stop trying because it fails to give a completely nice looking top far more often than it doesn't with 0.2 mm layers. Out of interest, the poor top surface with 0.2 mm layers looks very similar to the areas of the top surface that fail with my thrid printer, so perhaps this is a clue as to what is happening? I'm out of ideas, in all other aspects the third printer works well enough. I am interested to hear about others experiences? Peter
  22. All I would like from a new printer is better quality at a faster print speed for a lower price...
  23. Hi Two possibilities come to mind. 1. You have chosen a very thin first layer in Cura. Check that your first layer is 0.3 mm. 2. The bed is level but at the wrong height. Personally I find that the calibration card Ultimaker supply is too thick. I always need to have the bed leveled closer than this to get a good first layer. I once obtained a "Leveling Rings" gcode file that someone made for leveling the bed. This works very well. Link here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/6951-calibration-utility-leveling-ringsgcode
  24. Hi I have 3 Ultimaker 2+ machines that run almost constantly. I regularly clean and lubricate them and change the TFM coupler as required. I was wondering if there is a recommended maintenance schedule for the other parts? I notice that a Ultimaker 2+ maintenance kit is available containing the following parts: PT100 B Sensor Glass Fiber TFM 2x Fan Pack Bowden Tube Pack Olsson Nozzle 0.4 Hot End Isolator Pulley Pack Glass Plate Build Platform Glass Retainer Back (2x) Calibration Card Sliding Blocks 4x Magnalube / Grease Timing Belt GT2 200 (2x) Timing Belt GT2 610 (4x) Heater Cartridge 24V 35W Injection Molding Part/Print Head Aid Sewing Machine Oil How often should I change the parts in this kit? There are two TFM couplers, does this mean I should change all the belts, glass plate and nozzle every time I change the TFM coupler twice? I've never change the nozzle (I only print non abrasive PLA), should I expect to need to change it? and how often? I will be interested to know if there is an official recommended maintenance schedule and what other people actually do? Thanks Peter
  25. Hi I'm reporting back my findings. I've tried the salt method for sticking to the bed for a few days on a number of different prints. It did work to a degree but I didn't find it better than the glue stick so I have decided to return to the glue stick. I am prepared to admit I could be doing something wrong, or perhaps this method doesn't work so well with Faberdashery PLA. Thanks anyway Peter
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