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prb4

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Everything posted by prb4

  1. Still no noise (I've got newish ones to compare with). I imagine the teeth probably are worn, however I can't see any effect on print quality. This morning I ran a test print on all printers (the newest one only has 2000 hours), I can't see obvious differences in print quality that suggest that any of them need new belts. Certainly nothing like the picture earlier in this thread. I will look out for signs that the belts need changing, (I might change them at 40000 hrs whether they need it or not!)
  2. I've just looked up the spare parts available. The belts pack looks like it comes with sliding blocks and copper bushes as well. Do these other parts replacing when the belts are done?
  3. Thanks for the replies. I'll look at the belts and run some test prints to compare the printers. I do get dust on the motors, but that happens when the printers are new as well (although any printer with less than 5000 hours I still consider new!). I certainly haven't noticed loud noises from the belts. Bowden tubes have been replaced, and many other parts as well on a regular basis as required. I think belts are about one of the only things I haven't changed. I tend to agree with the old adage "Don't fix what's not broken", so unless a part actua
  4. In what way did the "print quality decrease slightly"? What was it that you noticed had changed? Thanks for your reply
  5. How do you know when the belts need changing? I've got several UM2+, two of which have over 20000 hours. I've never changed the belts on any of them as I have never found a reason to. So I would be very interested to know what I should be looking for that indicates the belts need changing? Thanks
  6. To me it appears as though the bed is too far from the nozzle. The first layer needs to squash flat to stick to the bed.
  7. Thanks for the reply. What I have to loose is about £200 on a copy of windows 10. If it doesn't work on Windows 10 then I would put windows 8 on it which is much cheaper, hence it would be good to know if anyone has tried Cubify Invent on Windows 10.
  8. I currently use Cubify Invent and find it ideal for what I need to model. I'm looking at getting a new PC, does anyone know if it works on Windows 10? Thanks
  9. Odd, we obviously have very different perspectives. I have found Faberdashery to be much cheaper and produces great prints. I also have many more problems with spooled filament than I ever have with the unspooled filament from Faberdashery. They could improve the consistency of supply though, it is annoying when colours are out of stock for weeks.
  10. That was my thought too. It's a shame because I like their filament most.
  11. I've been waiting for Faberdashery to restock on several colours for months but no colours are coming back into stock and those that are in stock just seem to reduce. I've tried e-mailing and phoning them but get no reply. Does anyone know what's happening with them? Thanks
  12. That's under-extrusion. Most likely caused by a blocked nozzle. You need to do some atomic pulls to clean the nozzle.
  13. Innofil3D pro 1 PLA It's been around a while and the marketing blurb claims its brilliant and can be printed a lot faster than normal PLA. It's recently been recommended to me by someone who is probably biased. So has anyone done any comparison tests of Innofil3D pro 1 PLA versus "normal" PLA (whatever that is)? I would be particularly interested to hear of the results of any comparison tests against other leading brands. Peter
  14. Regardless of whether support is provided or not, printing from SD card remains essential. Most of the time my PC is not even on when the printer is printing. Incidentally none of my Ultimaker printers has wifi connectivity, nor is USB printing recommended by Ultimaker for them, including for the recently purchased one.
  15. Printing from an SD card is certainly not a "remnant from the past". My printers are not next to my PC and I print on more than one printer at a time. The SD card is essential.
  16. I am not sure it is wise to be recommending 3DHubs these days given their recent business attitude? UM2+ would be my choice, the complexity of a UM3 is unnecessary expense for creating this part. I would second the 0.25 mm nozzle though if dimensional accuracy is most important.
  17. Hi Mine works fine, but I did find a higher temperature was required. Try adjusting your normal print temperature up or down 5 or 10 degrees. Peter
  18. Excellent, thank you for the comprehensive reply. I'll give these a go and see what makes a difference.
  19. Hi Sander Thank you for the reply. A number points. Firstly, the printers work great most of the time and always have done (with regular maintenance). They are great machines (that's why I keep buying more instead of a different brand) and don't actually need much maintenance. I've looked at your Maintenance schedule, obviously that is for an Ultimaker 3 and I only have 2+. However assuming the schedule is similar then I largely do follow those recommendations already. I do regularly lubricate the rods. Things I haven't done, I have n
  20. Hi I have four Ultimaker 2+ printers, one of which is an upgrade from a 2. They range in age from 6 months to over 3 years They all print most of the time, all day everyday. Obviously I would expect parts to age and need to be changed after a few years, however I haven't ever seen any advice on this. Can anyone recommend how often parts need to be changed? Or even which parts are likely to need replacement first? I'm not talking about the more frequent, semi-consumable parts like the nozzle and coupler which do need changing more frequ
  21. I would really like to use the adaptive layer heights on my prints but to do so it would need to work with multiple different models on the bed. I would expect the layer heights on one model to be different to the layer heights on another model. I could accept that it perhaps doesn't work optimally in this situation. For example, if the layer height was allowed to vary between 0.2 and 0.05 mm. But the step change was limited to 0.025 mm. i.e, the only available steps were, 0.05, 0.075, 0.1, 0.125, 0.15, 0.175, 0.2. In this way the layer height
  22. I can see that the adaptive layers feature might be useful for me. I nearly always print several different models at the same time. Some would need adaptive layers and some would not. Will Cura only use adaptive layers on the models that need it? Or is the layer height adjusted for the whole layer including models that don't need it? Thanks Peter
  23. Hi Neotko That's a useful insight. All 3 printers are using the 0.4 mm nozzle originally supplied with the printer. Perhaps this suggests that the bottom of the nozzle on the new printer is not perfectly flat. I could take a file to it but unless I was able to file very accurately I suspect I would only make matters worse. What I do find strange is that parts of the top surface look perfect and other parts don't. Thanks Peter
  24. Hi fergazz Thank you for the link but that information is old, it was available before the feature was released in Cura. I would be interested to hear how you get on with Cura ironing particularly if you have an Ultimaker 2+. As I said in my original post, I have had mixed results depending on which printer I am using. I can improve the results on the worst printer by modifing the profile for that printer.
  25. I find it difficult to post pictures. However I am not asking for someone to solve my particular problem. I would like to hear of anyone elses experience of using ironing? It would also be good to hear anyones thoughts on why one printer is just not as good at ironing as the others? Peter
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