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anon4321

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anon4321 last won the day on June 7 2015

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  1. I'd recommend you use a different meter. I believe (could be wrong) that clamp meters tend to not read low currents very well. Or if you have spare wire to the circuit you want to measure, wrap as many turns as you can around the clamp. Then read the current and divide it by the number of turns. More is better, like 10 turns... That meter has a maximum current reading of 600A and you are trying to read current 2 orders of magnitude less. Otherwise, measure the resistance of the heater when cold and when hot and we can calculate the current. I don't own a UM with the new electronics s
  2. http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Printed-Logo-Engineered-from-2D-into-a-3D-Object/
  3. I think this is a pretty common operation so there is a lot of options.
  4. There is a lot of software out there that operates as a "3D printer host". When not printing from an SD card, the host must feed the g-code in a certain way with checksums and resends. As part of this stream, you can get the temperature info back. The head position can be implied from the g-code as it is sent. However, the accuracy of the g-code coordinates is limited by buffering done by the FW. If you send "go to 0,0,0", the printer may accept it immediately. Because you just sent 0,0,0, you report the head as 0,0,0, but the command might be bufferred and there may be som
  5. It might be best to begin with a model that is known to be OK. Not many models on youmagine but quite a few on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:7?q=auger&sa= Note that helices are difficult to print without support as no matter how you orient them, there will be challenging overhangs. The only way to avoid the overhangs is to split the helix in half down it's axis. Like this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:605353 then assemble/glue the two halves together. If you are asking for help modelling your prototype, you need to tell us what software you are us
  6. Awesome overhangs though! If you don't find a loose pulley, although less likely, check that the steps per mm are the same for both X and Y.
  7. You should make it into a visible theremin so we can duplicate the Star Trek theme. Although, the truth is that the theme is not performed on a theremin....
  8. The results aren't the best but I think there is a lot if ideas here to be developed and improved:
  9. I think it will depend on where you source the replacement 2560 from... I don't think the chip comes with a bootloader from ATMEL. So places like Digikey and Mouser probably sell it blank. You would need a programmer. I think you have a couple options: Get a programmer and burn the BL yourself. Use another Arduino as a programmer and burn it yourself. Or buy a arduino mega 2560 r3 clone for as cheap as possible ensuring that the package type of the 2560 is the same as the one used on the motherboard and then desolder it and transfer it to your motherboard. Good overview of the BL up
  10. Although not a slicer, MeshMixer can do this, However, MeshMixer is a utility for manipulating STLs including repairing and the addition of these types of supports. Its not a slicer. So the workflow is open in Meshmixer, add supports, do any other things like auto orient for best printablility and then save as a new STL. Then load in a slicer like Cura and examine the layers to see if the support is going to print correctly. If not reopen and meshmixer and repeat. So not the easiest but it will do it... http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html
  11. Once soldered correctl,y they are plug in compatible. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo
  12. If you don't want to get into the modelling aspect which might be a little advanced for the age range, search https://www.youmagine.com/for toys and such. Keep in mind that smaller is better since if they print gets messed up, you don't lose too much time and small prints also print faster. For some younger family members, one in the range you mentioned and one just slightly older, to show them the printer, I printed an UM robot https://www.youmagine.com/designs/official-ultimaker-robot and for the younger one, a braclet with her name (thingiverse is not well liked by us due to some shady
  13. Oh, sorry. I forgot they are shipping with the UM2 board. I have an older UM1 with the UM1 specific version. Do what electromu suggested and switch the they cables between two steppers.
  14. Hmmm, that is a good thought. I vaguely remember the FW having a bit of a weird behavior if an endstop is triggered by you keep trying to feed in that directions. It's worth check that too. Check that the Z endstops connectors are in good working order. Then swap them with another axis.
  15. Thee first thing to check is the connector for the Z axis motor. Unplug it and examine the pins and leads. Check the pins on the PCB too. There is little risk in doing this. Next, this is more risky. In the stepper drivers there is a small screw that is a potentiometer that sets the current the driver delivers to the stepper. Do this: power off and unplug the printer, using a small preferably plastic screw driver, very gently turn the screw a very small amount like 1/32th of a revolution. Now put the cooling cover back on, power on and test. If it is not any better repeat.
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