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anon4321

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anon4321 last won the day on June 7 2015

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  1. I'd recommend you use a different meter. I believe (could be wrong) that clamp meters tend to not read low currents very well. Or if you have spare wire to the circuit you want to measure, wrap as many turns as you can around the clamp. Then read the current and divide it by the number of turns. More is better, like 10 turns... That meter has a maximum current reading of 600A and you are trying to read current 2 orders of magnitude less. Otherwise, measure the resistance of the heater when cold and when hot and we can calculate the current. I don't own a UM with the new electronics so I'm not 100% sure but I believe that the electronics don't measure the power or current and can't turn off the printer. Again, I could be wrong here. When you say "shuts down:, do you mean turns off completely? If so, it's the power supply's over current protection shutting the PS down, not the UM2 based electronics. There appears to be a safety circuit that will cut off the 24V power but not the power to the electronics. This has something to do with J17 and J16. Looks like there must be continuity between both connectors to allow the 24V relay to switch on. Here is a good reference for the board: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf
  2. http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Printed-Logo-Engineered-from-2D-into-a-3D-Object/
  3. I think this is a pretty common operation so there is a lot of options.
  4. anon4321

    Read data from Ultimaker

    There is a lot of software out there that operates as a "3D printer host". When not printing from an SD card, the host must feed the g-code in a certain way with checksums and resends. As part of this stream, you can get the temperature info back. The head position can be implied from the g-code as it is sent. However, the accuracy of the g-code coordinates is limited by buffering done by the FW. If you send "go to 0,0,0", the printer may accept it immediately. Because you just sent 0,0,0, you report the head as 0,0,0, but the command might be bufferred and there may be some "slop" in time before the FW actually gets to 0,0,0. When you print from Cura, it operates as a host as does Simply3D (which also pseudo reports the head position) You might look at http://www.pronterface.com/index.html . It is an open source 3d printer host and UI with a command line host too. If it doesn't do what you need, at least the source code can guide you on how to make mods.
  5. anon4321

    Auger Printing

    It might be best to begin with a model that is known to be OK. Not many models on youmagine but quite a few on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:7?q=auger&sa= Note that helices are difficult to print without support as no matter how you orient them, there will be challenging overhangs. The only way to avoid the overhangs is to split the helix in half down it's axis. Like this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:605353 then assemble/glue the two halves together. If you are asking for help modelling your prototype, you need to tell us what software you are using...
  6. Awesome overhangs though! If you don't find a loose pulley, although less likely, check that the steps per mm are the same for both X and Y.
  7. anon4321

    Mere Mortals Beware!

    You should make it into a visible theremin so we can duplicate the Star Trek theme. Although, the truth is that the theme is not performed on a theremin....
  8. The results aren't the best but I think there is a lot if ideas here to be developed and improved:
  9. anon4321

    replace ATMEGA chip

    I think it will depend on where you source the replacement 2560 from... I don't think the chip comes with a bootloader from ATMEL. So places like Digikey and Mouser probably sell it blank. You would need a programmer. I think you have a couple options: Get a programmer and burn the BL yourself. Use another Arduino as a programmer and burn it yourself. Or buy a arduino mega 2560 r3 clone for as cheap as possible ensuring that the package type of the 2560 is the same as the one used on the motherboard and then desolder it and transfer it to your motherboard. Good overview of the BL upload process: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/installing-an-arduino-bootloader
  10. anon4321

    Branch style support structures

    Although not a slicer, MeshMixer can do this, However, MeshMixer is a utility for manipulating STLs including repairing and the addition of these types of supports. Its not a slicer. So the workflow is open in Meshmixer, add supports, do any other things like auto orient for best printablility and then save as a new STL. Then load in a slicer like Cura and examine the layers to see if the support is going to print correctly. If not reopen and meshmixer and repeat. So not the easiest but it will do it... http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html
  11. Once soldered correctl,y they are plug in compatible. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo
  12. anon4321

    School - Borrowed a UM2 - what would you do?

    If you don't want to get into the modelling aspect which might be a little advanced for the age range, search https://www.youmagine.com/for toys and such. Keep in mind that smaller is better since if they print gets messed up, you don't lose too much time and small prints also print faster. For some younger family members, one in the range you mentioned and one just slightly older, to show them the printer, I printed an UM robot https://www.youmagine.com/designs/official-ultimaker-robot and for the younger one, a braclet with her name (thingiverse is not well liked by us due to some shady things they did regarding rights to the works posted there but): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46735 It is stretchy even when printed in PLA. If you have a selection of filament colors, this might be fun for them to see printed: Ultimaker PLAY KIT ROBOT - ultirobot https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-play-kit-robot-ultirobot If you want something on the mechanical side, these might be of interest: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-print-gear-bearing If you want to talk about space and the ISS using 3D printers, there are models of the wrench they printed such as: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modified-space-wrench If you wanted to make some original models, tinkercad looks good: https://www.tinkercad.com/ For more advance modeling, 123D design http://www.123dapp.com/design Hope that helps !
  13. Oh, sorry. I forgot they are shipping with the UM2 board. I have an older UM1 with the UM1 specific version. Do what electromu suggested and switch the they cables between two steppers.
  14. Hmmm, that is a good thought. I vaguely remember the FW having a bit of a weird behavior if an endstop is triggered by you keep trying to feed in that directions. It's worth check that too. Check that the Z endstops connectors are in good working order. Then swap them with another axis.
  15. Thee first thing to check is the connector for the Z axis motor. Unplug it and examine the pins and leads. Check the pins on the PCB too. There is little risk in doing this. Next, this is more risky. In the stepper drivers there is a small screw that is a potentiometer that sets the current the driver delivers to the stepper. Do this: power off and unplug the printer, using a small preferably plastic screw driver, very gently turn the screw a very small amount like 1/32th of a revolution. Now put the cooling cover back on, power on and test. If it is not any better repeat. However, if you put a quarter of a turn into it and it doesn't fix the issue it is probably something else. See this information about the direction: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide Finally and the most risky, to test if the driver is the problem, swap it with another driver. Obviously, do this with the power off. The risky part is two fold. First you need to be sure the pins are aligned and not shifted up or down. *** The second risk is that the driver MUST be oriented correctly *** They must be oriented so that the potentiometer's location matches the driver you are replacing. I believe (but check) the X, Y and Z drivers are all oriented in the same direction so if you remove one of the X or Y drivers to swap with the Z driver, DO NOT rotate them. However, i believe the extruder driver is rotated 180 degrees. So carefully examine the drivers on both sides to understand what I mean. If the problem follows the driver then the driver is bad. If it doesn't then the board is bad. Good luck.
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