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anon4321

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Everything posted by anon4321

  1. Once soldered correctl,y they are plug in compatible. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo
  2. Anything similar in this feature already in the firmware? It is specifically commented out in the UM version of the FW. //automatic temperature: The hot end target temperature is calculated by all the buffered lines of gcode. //The maximum buffered steps/sec of the extruder motor are called "se". //You enter the autotemp mode by a M109 S<mintemp> B<maxtemp> F<factor> // the target temperature is set to mintemp+factor*se[steps/sec] and limited by mintemp and maxtemp // you exit the value by any M109 without F* // Also, if the temperature is set to a value <mintemp
  3. Frankly, being scientifically minded and located in the US, I really think we should move to the metric system. It's just easier. I initially struggled with metric units when I got the printer but now it is a little easier. For smaller sizes, I have a good feel for how big 10mm is. Large ones like 150mm I have to convert in my head to inches (about 6 inches right?) BTW: The Win7 version of the venerable Windows Calculator can do conversions of just about anything, Go to the View menu and select Unit Conversion or ctrl+U. 150mm is also 1500000000 angstroms...
  4. Just to be clear to everyone, the material cooling fan is driven at 19V. Some fans won't like this and instantly release the magic smoke. If you use a 12V fan, you can use a zener diode to drop the voltage such as: http://www.newark.com/fairchild-semiconductor/1n4735a/zener-diode-1w-6-2v-do-41/dp/18C8951?CMP=TREML008-005 Mind the power rating. That zener is a 1W which limits the max current of the fan you should use to 160ma. However, at that current, the fan's rating can be as high as 1.9 watts which is a large amount for fans this size.
  5. Errr sorry, looks like adafruit has cables up to 2 feet / 61cm http://www.adafruit.com/products/1731
  6. 30cm flat cable, don't know if it will be long enough and don't know if you can go longer due to electrical reasons. http://www.adafruit.com/products/1648
  7. Can you temporarily uninstall FreeCAD? looks like it is picking up stuff from the FC installation.
  8. Also look in output.txt in C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_14.07
  9. I don't think CuraEngine is the UI. Pretty sure it is the slicer. Try running Cura.bat from a command line to see if it gives you any information. The Cura UI is written in python and that is what the .bat starts.
  10. Nick, did you increase the feed rate of the Z axis? My guess is that the Z driver is overheating and in Nicks case increasing the feed rate and moving the bed up and down at that increase rate is overheating the driver (barely). It momentarily shuts down and quickly cools just enough to restart. For both of you, try DECREASING the current.
  11. Have you checked to see if the bed or glass is warped?
  12. You can get previous versions of Cura and install and then steal the firmware file. See http://software.ultimaker.com/?show=all
  13. I started with the UM1 kit and I am happy with it. To reduce the cost of entry, you should consider it as long as you have the skills to assemble it. Otherwise, like for someone selling an assembled UM1. I think functionally and performance wise the UM1 and UM2 are very close. The UM1 is missing the heated bed which is can be added/built by you or you can wait for UM to release the HB kit for the UM1 which is rumored to be soon.
  14. I have a UM1 that I built from a kit and then added a self made heated bed. I've run into problems but have been able to fix them pretty quickly. I think UM is pretty good about supporting their printers and warranty. I will warn you that currently UM's support and order fulfillment process is HORRIBLE. I believe they will always eventually do right by the customer but you usually need to really push them to get an order completed and shipped.
  15. Realistically, and others might disagree, I view 3D printing as still in the hobbyist realm. Meaning that if you expect a consumer experience where you just "push print", we aren't there yet. Many of these things: clogs, homing errors, retraction optimization issues, lack of dimensional accuracy of the prints, warping issues and bed adhesion issues are simply the nature of the hobby-ness of 3D printing at this point. Things are relative and even with the hobby limitations, I think the satisfaction with a 3D printer will be largely based on how often problems happens. UM1 & UM2s hav
  16. I'll render my opinion. (opinions are like buttholes, everyone has one and they all stink). I don't see this thread going anywhere useful. I think both sides are misreading the tone and intent. I think the best way to have handled would have been to provide instructions for opening a request in a more formal fashion. Seems like that would be the github tracker. So everyone one should calm down. ;-)
  17. So multiples of 0.001875mm ? I don't know if this is still accurate but this information says: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/rDneN2H0ixQ "On Saturday, February 23, 2013 10:24:05 PM UTC-5, wil21...@maricopa.edu wrote: 2. The lead of screw is 3mm, but I don't think this is a good choice. When the screw makes one rotation of 360°, the Z-plate rises up 3mm. The step angle of stepping motor is 1.8°, this means 0.015mm is the minimum step distance. So it is hard to reach the common layer height such as 0.1mm, 0.2mm. Perhaps, 2mm, 4mm or 5mm for lead of screw is better. The Z
  18. Hmmm that is a good point. Problem is, so does the downward pressure of the feeler gauge so it is hard to know the "feel" unlike say a spark plug that is rigid at both points. the feel is different is you are even slightly pressing down on the feeler. I've even seen the gap change from the weight of the hex driver that came with the UM1 kit. I guess if comes down to consistency. If you know that 10.7 cm under the pressure of the gauge works for the front and 10.5 for the back then at least you can repeat prints without fussing around with the first layer or two. Are there any gauges
  19. If you are an old car guy and have a dial indicator, there is a dial indictor holder that allows you to place the indicator into the head. I'm thinking of going that route because even with a feeler gauge, I just can't get the feeling right. Sometimes the feeler is tight or lose or feels the same. And any pressure on the bed can allow the feeler to go under the head and add in compressible blue tape and I find it very inconsistent.
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