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anon4321

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Everything posted by anon4321

  1. The HBK is a worthy upgrade. Stays leveled for days and days. Anyhoo, I believe I read somewhere that the ALU plate comes directly from the UM2 and the tab and threaded hole on the back are used only on the UM2.
  2. I think a lot of this and probably part of Daids frustration is that what people refer to as "slicing" or "auto-slicing" is really one part of a multi-step process. The steps that bracket the slicing option might be stalling and locking up the UI. I watched bot's video and something is really gummed up...
  3. I can answer your simple question: "For example, scrolling through the Layers View mode in Cura makes me think that the UM2 prints large solids in hollow-core at every opportunity. In other words, does the print software introduce ribbing (shown in yellow) for the actual output?" This is the fill setting. By default it is 20%. You can set it to 100% and get a solid part. Also you can control the shell thickness. When the fill is < 100%, you can increase the strength by using a thicker shell while the part is still somewhat hollow. This results in a stronger part that is lighter and use less material and therefore prints faster (usually). However, it is not as strong as a part with 100% fill. The shell setting can be used even with 100% fill to change our the outer surface of the part is built. BTW what you see in Cura and the printer's capabilities are two different things. You can use other slicers to get different results. What I described above is how the Cura software works and is NOT an inherent property of the UM printers. A different slicer might produce different infill or use different methods for finishing the shell. Also, PLA seems to be pretty strong. There is also nylon filament that makes strong parts.
  4. DISCLAIMER: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE, INJURY OR DEATH THAT RESULT FROM USING THIS INFORMATION I'm by no means an expert with Marlin but I believe that Marlin assumes the coordinate system is if X increases to the right that Y increases in the direction that is 90 degrees counterclockwise around the 0 point of X. So for most printers, this means that 0,0 is the front left corner. If I were you, I would try to contact manufacturer for help and the correct settings for Marlin. If that option isn't available then as long as BOTH axes are reversed as far as the pronterface is concerned, things should work. However, if only one axis is reversed then anything you print will be mirrored around the other axis if my brain is working. Given the way Marlin assumes the positive axes are oriented with respect to one another and that your printer has the end-stops at the back left, the only way to get 0,0 at the back left would be to rotate the coordinate system 90 clockwise. This means switching the X and Y axes. How did pronterface work before you flashed the firmware? Did the controls orient correctly? Right moves right and top moves back? If so then I don't see how 0,0 could be the back left corner. Since Marlin is open source, the manufacturer could have customized the crap out of it so it is very important to try to contact the manufacturer or their support forums. However, if that simply isn't available there MAY be a way to configure Marlin to support your printer: First, changes these until the XY axes move correctly with respect to Pronterface (right should move right and up should move back): #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false Next change these until homing moves the extruder to the left and back (I think the settings shown are what you need (basically, X homes to 0 and Y homes away from 0 where 0,0 is front left): #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 Now when you home the printer, the extruder should go to the back left to hit the end-stops. Now the problem is that when the end-stops are hit in the back left, Marlin will think it is at 0,0 as most (UM) printers have the end-stops in the front left. So we need to have Marlin use a different point for home. In poking around in the source, I found that Marlin has these available BUT I'm not absolutely sure that they do what you need. So you have to roll the dice... In configuration.h, find this line and uncomment it: //#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be use Then find these lines: #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0 #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0 #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0 and define as (assuming you said the build area is X=300 Y=220 Z=220): #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0 #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 220 #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0 I BELIEVE (again I'm no expert) that this configuration will give you a coordinate system where 0,0 is the front left with X increasing to the right and Y increasing towards the back of the printer with X homing to the left and Y homing to the back and when the end-stops are hit, Marlin will set the position as 0, 220 Hopefully, this will work for you and pronterface will match the printer and nothing will be mirrored. Good luck.
  5. What level of fan are you using? Is the fan used on the calibration mm3/sec cup? Are the belts tight? Have you lubricated the rods? Could be that the fan is over cooling things including the nozzle during your prints particularly if the fan isn't used on the cup. Also with the cup, since the harder part is printed further up, even if the fan is on, it might not "backwash" into the nozzle like it would closer to the bed where the easier part is printed. The easier part might be less affected by the backwash. Might be slightly loose belts or friction on the rods preventing the nozzle from precisely positioning during the layer fill.
  6. The motion seemed a little sticky so I loosen things up and realigned. Afterwards, it was less likely to stick and the clicking went down some. When I say stick I'm talking about requiring more force to keep it going. However, the amount seems to be sooo much less than that produce by the stepper than it doesn't seem to affect prints. The sound is a little like it is "gritty". Yeah, pressing down seems to cause the most clicking. As a young boy, my father had to repetitively tell me "if you look for problems you will find them" usually when I got a new toy and this is probably a similar situation....
  7. Anyone else have linear bearings from the HBK that click when moving in one direction or another? My click when pushing the bed down and less so when the stepper is used to move it down. However, manually moving the bed up doesn't result in the clicking noise. It sounds like the ball bearings are "falling" inside the unit.
  8. An extra fan should be OK. Note that the fan output is actually 19V NOT 12V. The stock 12V fan is OK with this but other fans are not. The output darlington transistor that drives the fan output is rated for a few amps so it can probably supply tens of watts. Another watt or two should be OK.
  9. I pinged Daid and he says no it does not use the arc gcode commands. So I'm not sure it's worth the effort to fix.
  10. Part of the problem appears to be in the implementation of the G2/G3 commands for arcs. It leaves the main loop and generates tons of tiny moves to approximate the arc. Within this loop, it isn't checking for the stop even though the stop discards some planned moves. Changing the code to check is going to be ugly.... Worse yet, I think that this loop doesn't process the endstops which explains why stopping the print during the arcs causes the extruder to crash into the endstops. Does anyone know if the Cura slicer uses the G2/G3 gcodes? If not, I don't think it's worth the trouble to fix it.
  11. Were you using PLA? If you are really hosed, take the nozzle apart and blow touch it. I just use a gas stove and put the nozzle directly in the flame. PLA burns out easily. Not sure about ABS. Of course there is some risk so only use as a last resort. Some people say they use a hypodermic need for cleaning the nozzle.
  12. I'll be trying this one: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/E2B-M18KN16-WP-C1%202M/Z4198-ND/4732614 It has an Alu sensing distance of about 7mm. So hopefully it will work through the glass with a few mm to spare.
  13. You are a little behind in versions. That whole auto slicing clued me into the fact I was lagging in updates. Latest version seems to be 14.12 RC10 vs your 14.11 RC7. The layers view which I think was the focus of the auto slicing thread is still slow loading the tool path but it always has seem to be slow. For me, the rest seems to be fairly smooth. I'm running MSE too.
  14. http://hackaday.com/2014/12/08/making-t-glaze-crystal-clear/
  15. I don't think the HBK is routed to a US location when ordered via the UM site. Some US companies like MakerShed seem to stock it now though. It will be nice when parts and accessories are readily available from US sources or routed from UM HQ to a US point for fulfillment. I think that would take a lot of pressure off UM. I hate buying cheap copies/clones. I'd rather see UM get some of that money.
  16. what is your extrusion rate? Take the layer height * nozzle width * layer speed. For a UM1, it seems the magic number is < 5mm3/sec Not sure about the UM2. So for my UM1, for a 0.2mm layer, I try to stay below 60mm/s (0.2mm * 0.4mm * 60mm/s = 4.8mm3/s) if I understand things correctly...
  17. Sorry, I didn't fully read your post. I see you ordered from UM directly. Yeah that's going to take some time. To be honest, I'm sad to say that I avoid ordering anything from UM directly. It's too frustrating when things go wrong... Good products, nice people, horrible at order fulfillment.
  18. WHAT?!?! I ordered the kit from MakerShed on 11/22 (Sat), received a shipment notification late on the following Monday 11/24. Shipped via USPS 2 day, Arrived on 11/26 (Weds). I'm in the Philadelphia area.
  19. try just bare glass, for me PLA sticks on glass that is 65c or hotter. Set the temp for the first layer hot too like 230 for PLA. Then use tweak at layer 1 to reduce...
  20. I can't speak to the UM2 as I don't own one. What I can say about the UM1 is the code definitely discards preplanned moves in an attempt to stop the print. However, I think that cached gcode isn't cleared properly. So for example when printing the circles from the SD, clicking stop print immediately causes the next circle to start printing often in a way that causes it to be printed offset until the endstops are hit.
  21. If that question was directed at me, I'll have to check later when I get home...
  22. Ok, here is my question, why is the bounding box calculated more than once? If this is the box that determines where the model is on the platform and the volume that needs to be reserved for it, seems like you could calculate it from the model when it is first loaded and sliced and then as long as the model isn't scaled or rotated, just adjust the bounding box as the model is moved around. The other question is, why does changing things like the temperature effect the bounding box (if this is the reason for the unresponsiveness)? Or any of the slicing parameters? I have to weigh in and say that in the latest RC, the hanging during what I perceive as the slicing for parameter changes that should really affect slicing (like temperature) is pretty bad for a large model.
  23. I have noticed that the latest RC tends to hang more and longer when the slicing starts. That makes the lack of a "Slice Now" feature more noticeable.
  24. Has anyone else seen this behavior: You are printing from the SD Card and need to abort the print. So you click Stop Print on the UltiController. However, the print doesn't stop and instead the extruder goes in some random direction and crashes into something. This is particularly noticeable when using the leveling circles gcode from: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5951-calibration-utility-leveling-ringsgcode/ I was looking for the reason in the firmware and as near as I can tell, the Stop Print routine discards the planned moves but it doesn't discard any cached commands. Based on the default buffer size, there could be 3 commands in the buffer from the SD file. For things like the leveling circles where one command could represent a a lot of moves, using stop print can really screw things up. Can anyone confirm?
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