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anon4321

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Everything posted by anon4321

  1. I wouldn't say it's a scam... extremely overpriced? Definitely but scam has a different connotation. It's possible that the wax tool is open loop control and this appears to have closed loop probably PID based temperature control. However, in my opinion, it isn't worth the asking price. I might pay half of the asking price for the ergonomics, form factor, specialized tips, temp controls specific to 3D printing materials. However, I wouldn't pay what they are asking. I do find the stretch goal of a model for testing a bit of a ... well .... stretch as a motivator....
  2. I doubt this applies to these issues but if you have run a lot of filament and of different types requiring high temps, check the inside of the Teflon coupler. I had my UM1 for more than a year and have printed a combination of PLA and XT. The higher temps required for XT probably caused my coupler to deform. Also I overdid the "preload" method of engaging the bowden clip on the print head. The coupler looked normal from the outside but a ridge developed on the inside. The temperature had to be raised more and more so that the filament softened above the brass tube. One symptom o
  3. Could be a partial nozzle clog. See http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6339-atomic-method-for-various-materials/
  4. So no dual extruders? Also, IMO the 2 non-PWM fan outputs should be at least be controlled so the firmware can turn them off and on as required.
  5. Actually STEP is an ISO standard: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21
  6. Sounds like the darlington pair transistor that controls the fan was shorted. Sometimes they fail closed and the fan runs at full as soon as power is applied. The question is why? Check for shorts in the cable going from the control board to the hotend especially the connectors. You will need to unsolder and replace the BD679 Lots of posts on this. See https://www.google.com/search?q=www.google..com&oq=www.google..com&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65j0l2j5l2.4034j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=site:umforum.ultimaker.com++BD679
  7. Or the UMO due to the potential of melting the plastic parts in the hotend.
  8. http://www.engadget.com/2015/03/19/tiny-3d-printed-drill/
  9. I think you need to connect just two pins, signal and gnd. http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-mechanical-endstop-for-cnc-3d-printer-reprap-makerbot-prusa-mendel-ramps.html Seems overly complicated. I believe Marlin will turn on internal pullups so you just need to connect gnd to gnd and sig to the other pin. The ATMEGA will pull up the sig and the switch should ground it. If you are using a UM shield when text ofo the end stop connectors are oriented so you can read it. GND is the left pin sign is the right. Be careful if the LED lights up. I'm not sure how much current the ATMEGA ca
  10. If that is the correct PS, from the datasheet, it uses the 4 pin version of these: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/222/KPPX-365228.pdf Considering that a new one will probably be at least 120 euro, might be worth trying to replace the connector.
  11. Does the UM2 use this one? http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=gs220 Definitely not cheap.
  12. Hopefully that is it. Let us know how it goes.... good luck!
  13. Have you looked at octoprint/octopi? There are cura addins to upload sliced gcode automatically or you can load the cura slicer on the pi (PI 2 B would be the best way to go).
  14. It could work but the challenge would be having a bearing with no "slop" so that changing nozzles results in the other nozzle being positioned exactly. Remember that some printers are producing layers that are 0.06 mm so you would need repeatability of much less than that probably on the order of 0.02mm or less to get satisfactory results. Note that this is along all three axes, X, Y and Z. Instead of having small platforms to prevent ooze, they could be some type of metal that actually stops the oozing. Otherwise, the unused nozzle will lose some material requiring that it be primed wi
  15. Most likely if the wrong firmware was used, the menu would be completely different and might not even work. Did you flash the firmware between the time it worked and it stopped working?
  16. It should move fully to the home corner which is the one with the switches. Basically, the firmware doubles the configured lengths and tries to move that amount in the direction of the switches until the switches are triggered. Based on this video, it looks like the home corner is back left. Skip to 9:49. Even though he is running through the initial setup, that first move diagonally back is the homing operation. The Z home position seems to be at the bottom. It's very strange to have it "home" away from the switches and that is a good indication something is wrong. Unless y
  17. The printer uses stepper motors which don't retain a known position when they are disabled or when the printer is turned off. So each time you turn off then on, the firmware will reset it's "position values" to 0,0 (and technically 0 for the Z bed) even though the actual location of the extruder could be anything. The only way for the firmware to know where the true extruder position is in the X,Y positions is to "home it". When do the homing routine, the firmware steps the motors in the direction of the home position which on a UMO is the front right corner. When it arrives ther
  18. I don't have a UM2 but I own a UMO. You shouldn't have to manually move the head back to the home position. I wouldn't be overly concerned about the belt "dust" but wait for another UM2 owner to chime in. I'm not 100% sure but I believe the UM2 homes to the same location as a UMO which is the front left corner and this should corner should be 0, 0. When you use the home menu item to which corner does it attempt to move? Some things to check: If the movement isn't completing, check to see if the pulleys are slipping on the long rods or the motor shafts. If so tighten the "grub" screws.
  19. I doubt that it is a dimensional inaccuracy in the slicer. Here are a few things: - Thermoplastics shrink as the cool so if you model a 3mm hole, the printer will print a 3mm hole but you get a little less than that as the part cools. - Holes and round surfaces in general are (always?) approximated with small straight lines. This tends to cause the holes to print with a little less of the actual modeled dimension. Most slicers (all?) don't support true curves. - If the hole or trap is through the first layer, there is usually some "squish" of extra material in both directions so tha
  20. How do you have the pins defined? Is it possible you have the same pin assigned for both? If not, does the thermocouple read correctly? In other words does it read room temperature? How about when the thermisistor use used for both? Do they both read room temperature? Do you have the pullup in correctly when using the thermisistor?
  21. I have mentioned this before and thought I was the only one having problems. I did find issues with my feeder (UMO) and later found that my Teflon coupler was deformed. Fixing those helped a lot. While it's better now, I'm not sure that the quick print profiles work well at such speeds.
  22. Daid, can you elaborate what you mean by "doesn't fit on all the current generation materials, and it won't do for the next generation."? I see that you have been watching the UFID community. https://plus.google.com/communities/107859862288161234107
  23. I found this interesting: ufids.org Description hereh: https://github.com/camerin/UFIDS_pages/wiki Sadly, it might be some time before you see it on a printer. Guess who has a patent on it? http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20140117585.pdf
  24. There is also this one which I have tested and it works OK: https://github.com/quillford/OctoUpload I'm not sure if either is derived from the other.
  25. I think aviphysics has a good recommendation. Take and post pics. Of interest is how you have them black and red wire connected to the heater output on the UM shield, The red must be in the terminal nearest to the outside of the board or the right most terminal if the power switch is at the top. And the black next to in in the HOT BED terminal. See the two pics at the bottom of page 13 here: https://ultimaker.com/download/178/Assembly_Manual_-_Heated_Bed_Update_kit_1.1_%281%29.pdf The red and black cable must be correctly connected and you should have about 18.5V at both ends when t
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