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anon4321

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Posts posted by anon4321

  1. Does it get better if you slow the speed of the print of the first layer way down?

    I usually use something are 10mm/s.

    On some prints it helps to print the first layer hotter which you can do by setting the extruder temp higher and then reduce it with the TweakAtZ plugin.

    Finally, for prints with lots of small detail on the first layer, use hairspray (sprayed into a paper towel and then wiped on the (cold is better) glass) or glue stick. If helps the extruded filament stick quicker and with it and a slower speed and hotter first layer temp, smaller details print better.

     

  2. AS far as I know, the g-code generated isn't specific to the operation such as "skirt". It's all instructions to squirt hot plastic out of the nozzle. So if it printed on a UM it should print on a MakerBot.

    The one difference might be retraction. In some gcode generation mods, cura will emit a different code for retraction and then the printer's firmware determines how far and fast to retract.

     

  3. Just note that the SlientStepperStick has a fairly significant ground plane and you need to put a good amount of heat into the ground pins and trace before the solder will flow...

    PS: I like the hakko soldering products like the FX888D which I own. A little expensive but think of it has an investment if you are into electronics.

    I've also been using SparkFun's "special blend" lead free solder: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10242

    It works well. However, it has a notably "dull" finish that looks like a cold joint so you need to understand the difference (see my pics).

     

  4. In the advance tab, there is a first layer line width. Reducing that might help some but it reduces it for the entire layer so infill may not completely "touch".

    Precise leveling calibration is critical to not having the elephant foot. It's also important to have the nozzle primed to the right pressure. Change the skirt count to something like 5 so the pressure can equalize before the actual part is printed.

    Also, I've been play with gears a lot. You can get a better result by putting a small bevel on the teeth so the first few layers aren't actually part of the teeth so that the "elephant foot" has a little room to spread before the teeth would meet the other gear.

    Finally note is that this may not really be "elephant foot". My understanding is that EF occurs when the bed is too hot causing the layers to "run" outwards because the material is too hot for too long. Instead, you might be over extruding due to slightly off leveling and printing a 0.3 mm layer into a space of 0.2mm or 0.15mm etc or because the nozzle was primed just before printing and has a higher than normal pressure build up. However, the results are the same.

     

  5. The first question is can you verify the printer can physically move throughout the whole range?

    Just because Cura won't slice the maximum volume doesn't mean the product page is wrong.

    I don't have a UM2, can you manually move the axes? If so start at the home position and verify the product specs match the printer's physical capabilities.

    If so then we can work on why Cura won't slice the max volume.

     

  6. I'm not sure the G4 command works with this but you can try:

    M140 S70 ; set bed temp (doesn't wait)

    G4 S15 ; wait 15 secs.

    M104 S210 ; set nozzle temp (doesn't wait)

    M190 S70 ; set bed temp (waits)

    M109 S210 ; set nozzle temp (waits)

    Alternatively, just set the nozzle temp to a safe "holding value" like 140.

    M140 S70 ; set bed temp (doesn't wait)

    M104 S140 ; set nozzle temp (doesn't wait)

    M190 S70 ; set bed temp (waits)

    M109 S210 ; set nozzle temp (waits)

     

  7. What I did was:

    Use an old arduino header *across* the carrier so one pin from each header was stuck in it at the correct distance so they remain parallel

    Solder one pin at one end of each header

    Check for straightness and reheat the one pin and adjust.

    Solder the other pin at the opposite end of the header in each side.

    Using a pair of needlenose pliers, while pressing the black header spacer up to the board so it doesn't break, I yank out the 3 CNF pins.

    Then I solder all the pins except the CNF pins.

    The using some silicone wire, I strip a bear minimum like 3mm and insert into the CNF1 hole and solder.

    Then I cut the jumper to length and only strip a little length like 3mm and solder to the gnd pin.

    PS: I strongly recommend getting silicone insulated wire for work like this. The insulation is much less likely to shrink away from the heat of the iron.

     

  8. You might get a better idea of the changes by looking at the commits in github here:

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin

    (click the commits towards the top left).

    The issue is that many commits are merges from other branches which could have 10s-100s of commits.

    I don't think there are many major improvements or fixes that are "must haves".

    Development has started up on the original marlin branch and lots of things are being fixed and added. You might wait until Daid merges those (if he does).

    I've personally contributed two features:

    Ability to set the printer in volumetric mode along with the filament diameter.

    A encoder multiplier that increases the amount of the encoder wheel depending on the speed for certain values. For example, getting the fan from 255-0 takes one or two "snaps" of the wheel now...

    If you want to see what's going on there, go to:

    https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin

    and view the commits...

     

  9. Anything similar in this feature already in the firmware?

    It is specifically commented out in the UM version of the FW.

     

    //automatic temperature: The hot end target temperature is calculated by all the buffered lines of gcode.

    //The maximum buffered steps/sec of the extruder motor are called "se".

    //You enter the autotemp mode by a M109 S<mintemp> B<maxtemp> F<factor>

    // the target temperature is set to mintemp+factor*se[steps/sec] and limited by mintemp and maxtemp

    // you exit the value by any M109 without F*

    // Also, if the temperature is set to a value <mintemp, it is not changed by autotemp.

    // on an Ultimaker, some initial testing worked with M109 S215 B260 F1 in the start.gcode

    #define AUTOTEMP

    #ifdef AUTOTEMP

    #define AUTOTEMP_OLDWEIGHT 0.98

    #endif

     

  10. Actually, Marlin's out-of-level compensation is pretty good but use need have have low backlash in the Z axis otherwise ir would reduce layer quality.

    A truly level bed is always better.

    I'm working on a physical bed sensor using a tiny servo, photo-interrupter and well a stick so it is as light as possible and requires the bare minimum of force. I'm hoping it will have very high repeatability.

     

  11. One big problem with all those types of sensors is they either don't have the accuracy or the repeatability can be affected by environmental changes.

    For example, the speed of sound changes with temperature so an ultrasonic sensor would be affected by a heated bed or a large swing in room temp.

    The printrbot metal has an inductive sensor but they have significantly reduced range on nonferrous material like the UM2's ALU bed. So you need to use a bigger sensor which has significant weight. More weight on the head slows the top printing speed due to the weight causing ringing at hard change of direction.

     

  12. Can those that have done this mod take pics of how they mounted the lights? I need some ideas on they best way....

    Also, don't mess with heat sinks and linear regulators....

    While probably 20x the cost but still only like 9 euros, don't waste power as heat and get a 12V/1A version of these:

    http://www.recom-power.com/pdf/Innoline/R-78Bxx-1.0_L.pdf

    The part number for the 12V - 1A (12 watt) version is R-78B12-1.0

    Based on the app note, no caps are needed for an input of 19V.

     

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