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anon4321

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Everything posted by anon4321

  1. Sander, do you have a cape? You need a cape! I haven't been waiting very long (ordered placed Monday) but if you could check: 1540599 I would appreciate an estimated ship date or tracking number.
  2. I don't believe that is the correct value to change. It controls whether the step pin is active high or active low. do NOT change that one. It does NOT control the direction. You can do one of the following: Switch any 2 of the four wires will (permanently) reverse the direction of the motor thus no need for custom firmware. or change: INVERT_E0_DIR in configuration.h.and recompile.
  3. I believe this is where Daid updates Cura.... This shows the commit history but unless the author adds a good description, it's hard to know the functional change. https://github.com/daid/Cura/commits/SteamEngine
  4. // 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20
  5. @Daid, They say in the video that they dynamically reduce the resolution of the model for the preview to prevent just that....
  6. Cool stuff GR5. How did you generate the text? Neat idea of printing the text and then printing the part on top of it...
  7. One way would be to make the design of some reasonable height so that Cura slices it. Then save the toolpath and open it in an editor and remove the gcode for the layers after the first layer. But look at the end of the file and copy and "end of print" gcode to after the first layer so the head is moved out of the way and the heaters are turned off etc. Also note that by default, regardless of your layer setting, the first layer is .3mm. It might be that anything shorter than this is not sliced. You can change this in the advance settings.
  8. Wait! eSherpa is both an electric cart AND a phone case??!??!?!!? Boy technology these days...
  9. Please NOTE that the video is somewhat misleading when you are talking about using these in a 3D printer. The stealthChop mode will NOT provide enough torque for a 3D printer. You need to use the spreadCycle mode which isn't as quiet as stealthChop. Even so, spreadCycle is significantly quieter than the A4988 on all but the fastest moves. Only place I could find them was Watterott. http://www.watterott.com/en/SilentStepStick I suggest you order the small heatsinks too. http://www.watterott.com/en/Heatsinks-6-3x8mm See "Tom's Guide" review posted earlier in the thread. For motion
  10. Frankly, being scientifically minded and located in the US, I really think we should move to the metric system. It's just easier. I initially struggled with metric units when I got the printer but now it is a little easier. For smaller sizes, I have a good feel for how big 10mm is. Large ones like 150mm I have to convert in my head to inches (about 6 inches right?) BTW: The Win7 version of the venerable Windows Calculator can do conversions of just about anything, Go to the View menu and select Unit Conversion or ctrl+U. 150mm is also 1500000000 angstroms...
  11. Nick S, did you see that Katy Perry's lawyers are suing to prevent the left shark likeness from being used? http://www.cnn.com/2015/02/09/entertainment/feat-left-shark-legal-irpt/index.html
  12. ChrisR, I'm not rendering an opinion on this but just playing devil's advocate. You are looking at this from the wrong side of the equation as a consumer of the models. This model is really oriented towards content producers (modelers that are doing it for profit). Some might argue that the consumer also benefit from this too. Here's how: Let's say there is a copyrighted character, let's call him Ronny Rat. Now Mick... err.. Ronny is always licensed and his copyright owner, Wisney, aggressively protects Ronny's likeness by suing or otherwise legally preventing anyone else from making
  13. I don't see much benefit over existing solutions like OctoPi and AstroPrint. The latter can be purchased as a plug and go appliance (AstroBox). OctoPi on a RaspPi 2 B+ would be a nice powerful solution using the Cura slicer if you are willing to manually set it up.
  14. here is the original thread, I suggest you continue the discussion there: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1611-fixing-pulley-innacuracy/page-14 That said, switch to GT2 as Jonny suggestions. 303 tooth for the long belts, 100 for the short. JUST NOTE that you MUST switch to a different block because at 303 tooth, the long belts do NOT require tensioning and in fact won't fit on the stock blocks. Good quality GT2 belts can be obtained from SDP/SI. These are the actual part links I ordered: 2 of http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206R51M100060 4 of http://w
  15. Just a note to the readers and aviphysics. For heat sinking, the sinks should go in the side WITHOUT the components and it is the side WITH the vias (small plated through holes) that form a square. The sinks should cover the gold square shown in this pic. If you are unfamiliar with surface mount electronics, some ICs like the driver chips used in these carriers have a thermal metal pad on the bottom of the chip (the side that face the PCB). When they are soldered, the pad is soldered to thermal vias. The thermal vias conduct the heat from the metal pad into the PCB (if the PCB
  16. I believe aviphysics is asking if the drivers are socketed like a Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver carrier. My understand is that the UMO+ comes with the UM2 electronics and that the UM2 electronics have the drivers surface mounted with the rest of the components. As such, it would be hard to upgrade/change/replace the drivers on a UM2 or UMO+. The upside is that the current control is done electronically.
  17. I think the 256 interpolation only occurs up to a certain step rate. The extruder retract seems to not benefit as much from the driver than the other axes ...
  18. I had zero problems so far with 4 SilentStepSticks. I soldered them up, cemented the sinks on and stabbed them in there. I didn't even mess with the current adjust. Only thing I needed to change was the FW. These drivers seem to drive in the opposite direction so I have to invert all four X, Y, Z and E. For the Z, you need to double the steps per unit since normally the thee Z axes run in 8X mode and as noted, these only support 16X.
  19. I assume so. I did not try them without active cooling.
  20. Most noise is coming from the material cooling fan and the feeder retracts.
  21. Yes, switching any two wires will reverse them. For me, easier to do in the firmware. As it turns out, since I converted to direct drive in the back left, I have to invert the XY anyway thus for me, inverting the inverted XY results in not needing to invert my XY axes. The extruder needed to be inverted though. As will the Z platorm if I upgrade that driver. Printing the robot at the moment. steppers have been running for about an hour and their temps are warm but not hot and quality looks good so....
  22. One thing I needed to NOTE is that my printer has been converted to direct drive which increases the XY noise. OK, I'm actually doing a print now. I can only here direction changes and the fan... Barring any overheating or print quality issues caused by the drivers, I DEFINITELY recommend you try at least two drivers on your X and Y given the low cost of doing so. The noise reduction is so dramatic that I'm going to put the last driver I have on the Z just so even homing is quiet. With these drivers, I'd say the printer is quieter than a laser (paper) printer and it would easily work in
  23. WHOA! Just WOW! First the bad news... The SilentStepSticks interpret the step direction opposite from the A4988 so you need to customize the firmware to use them... A minor annoyance.... Now the good news! Obviously, very limited testing due to the direction issue but: DRV8825 (high current variant of the A4988) - Please note that I dial the current down as much as possible to reduce the noise and heat: Now the SilentStepSticks with NO adjustment - I tested the torque by blocking the extruder with my hand until steps were skipped and there was a LOT of torque. Can you tell
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