anon4321

Just wanted to make a correction so no one is misled. This update is not the source of my problem. I have/had two: - First the tension on the UMO feeder was too low. - I use printed helical gears on my UMO feeder. The small gear worked loose leading to inaccurate retracts and I'm sure inaccurate recoveries. In general either of the two problems above is enough to really screw up a print. But together, I'm surprised it didn't explode. Still not convinced that my UMO can handle the high speeds in the new profiles but I'm sure my problems above have much more of an impact than the new speeds.

Mine are working well. I can't see any "out-of-round" and the axis move very, very smoothly. Much better than with the original UMO MXL pulleys

I believe Jonny purchased them from here : http://www.robotdigg.com/ See http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1611-fixing-pulley-innacuracy/?p=64995 I purchased mine from here (much more expensive) : http://www.adafruit.com/

M190 sets the bed target temperature and waits until it reaches that temp. There are others that just set the temp but do not wait. M104 for extruder, M140 for the bed. So you can do things like (not sure about the G4 syntax): ;start heating the bed M140 S65.000000 ; wait 60 secs to give the bed a headstart G4 S60 ; Start heating the extruder M104 T0 S190 ; wait for the bed to reach temp M190 S65.000000 ; Wait for the extruder to reach temp M109 T0 S192.000000

I've never heard of Project Spark even though UM is apparently a partner. Interesting stuff: http://spark.autodesk.com/ http://spark.autodesk.com/wire From: http://hackaday.com/2015/01/06/3d-printing-circuits-gets-rid-of-the-box-altogether/

Pretty sure about the UM2. Even though the pitch is 2mm, there are four helices. Using the controller to move 8mm only results in one revolution. So it has an effective pitch of 8mm. Actually, looks like the correct term is lead. The UM2 screw has a lead of 8 and a pitch of two. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread So the formula is really: The values are X, Y, Z and E and the formula is using the Z value as an example: 200.0*8/3 200 - full steps per rev 8 - number of microsteps 3 - lead So use the value of the lead in calculating the steps per unit.

Hmmm, I'm a bit confused too. I believe 200.0*8/2 would be correct for a 2mm pitch. I think the confusion is because you mentioned like the UM2 which appears to have a 2mm pitch BUT it is a quad helix screw so the effective pitch is 8mm. But I'm not 100% sure so wait for someone else to confirm. Or you could just try 200.0*8/2 and have the platform move 2mm. The screw should rotate once. If I'm correct about the UM2, it would only rotate 1/4 of a turn.

You need to change the third value in the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT define in Configuration.h #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker The values are X, Y, Z and E and the formula is using the Z value as an example: 200.0*8/3 200 - full steps per rev 8 - number of microsteps 3 - pitch

Is anyone seeing underextrusion with the new settings when three is moderate retraction? For some reason the new speeds are too aggressive for my UMO and I get brief underextrusion after a retract and long move. I had to dial the speed way down.

I think the OP should clarify but I believe he/she is looking for something to permanently bond parts together as opposed to sticking things to the build plate.

I made and submitted updates to Marlin to save/restore retract and filament diameter settings. I also added a menu to the display to turn on/off volumetric mode and set filament sizes. Hopefully it will be in the next release of Marlin. https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/pull/1261 https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/pull/1303 PS: If you are a developer and speak a language other than English, please find and update these values in the language_XX.h file: #define MSG_VOLUMETRIC "Filament" #define MSG_VOLUMETRIC_ENABLED "E in mm3" #define MSG_FILAMENT_SIZE_EXTRUDER_0 "Fil. Dia. 1" #define MSG_FILAMENT_SIZE_EXTRUDER_1 "Fil. Dia. 2" #define MSG_FILAMENT_SIZE_EXTRUDER_2 "Fil. Dia. 3"

Clicking is the switch closing. Any more movement up does nothing. So the height needs to be exactly where it clicks. Not sure what you mean by the horizontal lever. The tab of the plywood cover on the bed pushes the top Z switch. If you mean you want the thing that pushes the level to be on the alu part of the bed, that would be OK. However, you shouldn't mount it to the glass portion as you using the thumbscrews for fine adjustment. If the thing that pushes the switch is also on the glass then you can't adjust the distance to the nozzle with the TSs because the distance from the glass to the switch will be fixed to be the length of the thing pushing on the switch. You would need to move the switch up and down which you can't do very precisely. If you feel the plywood isn't accurate enough, don't buy a new lever. PRINT ONE! The base aluminum platform is unheated so you should be able to print a PLA "stick" that sits on the platform and comes out the top and does the same thing as the plywood tab does...

From other popular mount models such as https://youmagine.com/designs/e3d-integrated-printhead-v1-9 the distance is 18mm.

Saw this on Hackaday, nice design:

I can't remember the magic numbers but I think hotter on the bed helps like 80c - 85. Then reduce it some to like 75 after the first layer. For me, when printing XT, hairspray really helps. I just spray it on a paper towel with the nozzle up close so it pools a little and then I swipe it over the glass plate.

Do you think it would work for the tea/coffee cup shown as the preview of the video? When you say strength, does it become clay like? Or still stiff but weaker?

I would be very interested in how it withstands 100C...

Unfortunately, it's a well known fact to most people that have been on the forums for some time that the forum search sucks....

You guys should just consider switching to GT2 belts and pulleys. Another member had good luck with pulleys from robotdigg.com. The pulleys are about $2 USD each or about $24USD for a full set. http://www.robotdigg.com/product/23/GT2-Pulley-20-Teeth-8mm-Bore http://www.robotdigg.com/product/9/GT2-Pulley-20-Teeth-5mm-Bore http://www.robotdigg.com/product/38/Closed-loop-GT2-Belt,-101-Teeth-202mm http://www.robotdigg.com/product/10/Open-Ended-6mm-Width-GT2-Belt NOTE, you would need new XY blocks for the open loop such as http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/12/twisterblocks.html ALSO NOTE: you need to print the GT2 form of the clamp. ALSO NOTE: THe commonly available closed loop GT2 belts won't work with the standard XY blocks as they tend to be slightly shorter. I got my pulleys from adafruit and belts from SDP/SI at 4x the price. My understanding is that the GT2 profile is better for bidirectional motion and have less backlash.

I assume that you have a UM2. I don't so take my advice with a grain of salt... I believe one problem people have with the UM2 feeder is the motor heats up and transfers the heat into the knurled driver. This heat softens the filament. So if I were you, find the minimum pressure and then add a little so you get good traction. Then remove the filament and let the printer cool (overnight) and then swap in new filament. If the first part of the filament has less sever indentations and the indentations get worse after printing for a while check how warm the knurled driver is. If it's warm, you can try reducing the motor's current to the point you miss steps (be sure to check retraction) and then increase it slightly. The stepper should run cooler and so should the driver and filament.

http://bit.ly/13sBTj5

I didn't see Daid say it was impossible. Just slow. You can do it straight from Cura if you know the right gcode.

I think that the glass on an UM2 is quality stuff. It shouldn't shatter. But take precautions. There is a reason the build area isn't enclosed. A certain closed source 3D printer which is "MAKERing with roBOTs" company has a patent (actually I think it's the parent company) on an enclosed chamber. It won't upset UM if you do it. However, it may cause the steppers to run hotter. It's better to convert to direct drive so that the steppers are out side the chamber. When they say fans off, they mean the material cooling fan NOT the fan that cools the upper part of the nozzle. Toasty bed = yes.

I think the baud rte is 250000

If you ever need a quick reference for basic electronics, check out: http://www.falstad.com/circuit/