universallsrs
-
Posts
16 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by universallsrs
-
-
Stratasys printers arnt really a great thing to compare to something 1/8th the price Ofc you will get the major drawbacks like the filament is £175 per cartridge so that's x2 because you need a support cartridge to print which isn't an option you have to print with support but it has it's bennifits that it can be super precise and accurate that's why there so expensive I personally run a dimension 1200es but being industrial means there's no open source stuff available for them such as there is a fixed layer height of 0.254mm and for the print se it's 0.174 but sat here printing my friends ultimaker is so much better than waiting 35 mins for the heated build chamber to warm upto 70° and the abs melts at 300° too hot for me but that's industrial for ya.
-
This is a great idea this is how our printer 1200es sst prints abs it doesn't have a heated bed though it uses a heated environment by using heated fans to heat the build envelope to 70oc and has abs beds and this is where I though the bed on the rev 1 would warp this happens a lot on thin acrylic when doing a large engraving that would be my only worry why not have a metal bed cut and wait for it to raise to temperature ?
-
New name Didnt like old forum name i use to use and the machine i cut with is made bu Universal Laser Systems so UniversalLSRS : ) i use a bigger one but names to long
-
I just remembered about the creative commons and this was just something we did when the laser cutter wasn't being used and i understand that its not a good financially move to do individual controller boards and then buy custom laser cut cases for the ulti controller
-
I am not a bot but i understand what you mean about being forward the first time you make a post but your right at the moment i am really busy building a reprap and busy laser cutting ultimaker parts under the sales forum etc but i am busy and i have fixed the issue with the cooling and its printing great until we ran out of filament .. but thanks for all the help so far!
-
Who is the bot
-
Xeno
Posted Today, 06:18 PM
The UM1 is (was) also sold without the laser cut parts, then why not the UltiController
it saved €100,- on the kit, I wouldn't mind saving €20,- on the UltiController
FIY just saw that the UM1 is € 361,- cheaper now, and even comes with Doodle3D, WOW
Would you like to purchase an ulticontroler case?
-
I'm really interested in this. Just bought an ultimaker and have no controller.. is there an "off the shelf" board which works with the ultimaker, and will fix your case.
Thanks
David
Unfortunately we don't know where to get just the boards from but I'm sure if you email ultimaker they can give you one with a discounted price or something along those lines some reprap sellers sell a board which works with the ultimaker it's just oversized compared to the ultimaker a board
-
For sale I have 2 colours of acrylic left that I can use to make ultimaker controllers : Orange, Red
You can have the normal ulticontroller engraved with a side message or no engraving. Any customizations or specific colours add +£4 shipping is £4 withing uk and the laser cut ulti controller costs £7.50 *controller not included* attatchments of cut controller.
-
good points but reason why I didn't say it was not the best thing to say I built something and it didn't work properly right ? And the fan ideas quite good I'm might give it a try.First you said the up and down movement didn't serve much purpose other than looking and sounding cool. Now you're saying that it's part of the actual cooling and that your printer is missing a fan. You're bouncing all over the place with the information here man...Aaanyway, if you want to do this because of insufficient cooling you could enable "Cool head lift" and set a longer "Minimum layer time" to force the head to lift up and wait for the layer to cool down. Having the head lifted for a long period of time will cause it to ooze however and will give you a whole different problem to overcome.
Something to know though is that if the object you're printing isn't very small you might not even need a fan to cool the layers as they will have cooled down sufficiently on their own. Alternatively if the object is mall you can print multiples so that the layer of one object has time to cool down while the printer is over at another object.
Or how about just wrapping some insulation around the print head and pointing a desk fan at the print area while you wait for the replacement to show up?
-
I fixed the limit switch can you recommend a good one?You could set the z limit to give you extra room, remove the filament and remove the bed, so that you can play with the programming until you get it right without damaging your bed or wasting plastic.You could also use a g-code simulator to check that your part will print correctly.
-
I fixed that problem with the head crashing it was a connector loose and I want it because i broke the fan that came with it and I won't get one for 2-3 weeks and the printer I am use to using dosent use cooling fans this is it's way of waiting for the layers to cool and it does a pretty good job of it but as much as I want I would like it I don't have £32000Why is the head crashing into the bed? Isn't your top z-limit switch working or have you not set it correctly?I also don't understand why on earth you'd want this up and down motion, it will add a LOT of time to the print for absolutely no reason.
-
Your original post and post #4 seem to have nothing in common. You confuse me greatly.
In post #1 you seem to be asking for a feature that is non functional. It's just "cool". Kind of like adding color LEDs. It sounds like you want the bed to go down *and* up on every layer. Instead of just down. Just for fun.
Then in post #4 you talk about cutting beds? And something is expensive? And replacement parts? What?
What I mean is I don't want to try and make the plugin because I have had to make several beds for the ultimaker by crashing the head into the bed and melting the bed so I wanted to know could you do it for me since I think I'll keep getting it wrong and have to make new beds and replacement parts if you get what I mean
-
One could easily write a plugin that moves the bed down then up by any amount between each layer. The command you want is G1 or G0 (they do the same thing).
For example
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 moves the head to 0,0,0.
G0 Z15 moves the bed only to 15mm from nozzle without moving x or y.
Pretty simple stuff.
Yeah I understand it all and that's really made it clearer for me but I wonder can you help me a bit further since I'm not cutting a 4th bed for this printer again it gets expensive after a while and I'm sure if you could help I could cut you some replacement parts as such?
-
Hi Ultimaker forum i recently built an ultimaker for my friend and we have a Dimension 1200es SST and everytime it prints a layer it drops the bed and then raises it again this is because it has a sensor leveling system but we think it looks cool as hell and sounds cool and its mainly just for show but we have no idea howto do gcode since we only use it for cnc machines and so we thought to come to the ulti-forum for some help so if there is someone out there that could help it would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks!
Compassion: Ultimaker 2 Vs. Stratasys UPrint-Se
in Coffee corner
Posted
And you said about diassasembling one yeah you might not want to do that when one of the colleges turned the power of at the mains whilst it was booted up we had a guy come in anyway to change the head 2500 : /... And he had to take the complete case of the machine to re flash the software and it's £90 callout per hour