donmilne

Yes, opening up a UK office was a good step forward. I only wish they had a greater online presence, e.g. on these forums and with a proper website, so I could be sure of what they offer. (*) (*) In fact I was emailed by UM-GB some time last year, but I was very busy at the time (and also didn't have any immediate need for any supplies), so I promptly forgot about it.

Mine did the same when the UM2 was brand new. I'd guess that the filament got hung up on its way into the hotend. It helps to cut a point on the filament rather than a flat end, the point will help the filament find its way. I also give it a bit of a helping push through the feeder! The "tock tock tock" is the feeder stepper motor failing to push the filament through an obstacle. There may also have been grinding, i.e. a divot ground out of the filament which you'll have to cut away.

What was the layer thickness and print speed used? And I assume it was PLA at the standard temperature. Yes, you can upload images to the gallery and then attach them to a post... but it's the most horrible badly designed system I've ever used. Imgur is probably a better way to go. I would guess that because of all those thinnish walls that retraction was an issue. Others may be suggestions on how to tweak that - it normally isn't a problem for my prints.

Well done. One tip: the clip on part on Robert's feeder is really only needed as support for flexible filament. For PLA etc I prefer to remove that so I can see the filament better, blow that area clean etc.

You keep saying a layer thickness of .01mm, but you mean .1mm right?

I'm not seeing the classic signs of severe underextrusion. Are you refererring to the fact that the wall is not well bonded to the infill and top layer? I would guess that's probably due to the outer shell cooling down before it gets around to adding the infill. It could also be due to your very thin wall curling away from the body. I can think of a number of tweaks that might help. "Infill overlap" as suggested by Dodgrr might certainly do the trick. Or, raising the filament temperature a bit, increasing the shell thickness way more than what you have (I like 1.2mm when I want a high quality print), reduce layer thickness to 0.1. Some might suggest playing with the fan, but I'd be wary of that. In fact I'd do all of the above.

On a side note, I notice that you are applying inner and outer diameters to the spheres. Do you need to? I'm only seeing outer surfaces, so creating hidden inner ones seems like a waste.. and might complicate printing too. Is it some kind of molecular model perhaps?

In fact you don't need wax (or wax -like), you can do lost PLA casting too. Of course you may need a slightly higher temperature for PLA to flow as a liquid. There are several YouTube videos on this subject.

What, even dihydrogen monoxide? :-P

I believe the general consensus is that the color dye is not UV stabilized, but PLA itself seems to be quite stable even when used outdoors. Generally however, I would think it best to keep PLA in a cool dark area, e.g. a cupboard. Completed parts can also be painted with a UV stable paint.

I'm familiar with Acetal/Delrin as a machinable plastic - wasn't aware it was available as a filament! You don't mention the obvious PVA glue stick adhesive?

Have you read :- http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9348-getting-close-to-that-release-1501-rc11/?p=90952

Just what I was going to say, along with: keep a sharp, good quality 40mm (1.5") wood chisel beside the printer. Run it along the glass bed, bevel side up, and it pings the print off with very little force. I assume that air pressure is a large part of what keeps the print stuck down after it has cooled, so once you get the chisel edge in there it gives up almost instantly.

What printer do you have? (editing your profile to say so might be a good idea). If UM2, are you still using the stock feeder?

I believe we've been talking at cross purposes. I now think you mean the collet - the bit that encloses the tube, rather than what I would call the (retaining) clip. Never mind, that plumbing fixture has both, and since that gives you 9 connectors for £5 you hopefully already have it by now!

If it won't stay put by itself, then I'd have thought something like a paper clip would serve as a temporary measure, at least long enough for you to print off some collet locks from that OpenSCAD script I linked you to. Or even a bit of 1mm cardboard cut to shape with scissors.

No way I'd pay UM parts prices and shipping (and hassle) for that! I bought 6mm tubing from Amazon.co.uk. I also bought plastic plumbing parts that (if you look carefully) provides the bowden clips and collets (x9). E.g. :- http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008NC4JUO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006PF1RBK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 I admit that I've not actually tried the hose yet, since my original tubing is still perfectly ok. That plumbing fitting provides the complete fitting: collet and collet clip. I've also previously posted an OpenSCAD model to let you print your own collet clips :- http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7338-ultimaker-2-collet-locks/?p=68640

Hmm. I'd say that being in a pan heated beyond 163°C is a pretty untenable place for a bird to be, and is quite likely to lead to bird deaths. If the bird isn't in the pan then I find it unlikely that it would be close enough for any PTFE vapours from cookware to trouble it. So, I'd say that "unconfirmed" is probably putting it lightly. My suspicions would tend more towards "totally made up".

That comment about STL and OBJ making proper software selection irrelevant - is incorrect for a number of reasons, however this is not the correct forum to discuss it.

Normally you would just use "change material" on the front panel and then pull on the filament from the back. If the filament snaps off inside the feeder then you'll have to remove the Bowden tube from one or both ends. To do that you slide the plastic horseshoe retaining clip out (at the hotend be careful not to let it drop down inside the hole for the dual nozzle!), push down on the white collet to relieve tension on the tube, then pull the tube out. Doing this at the feeder end only should let you get a hold of enough filament to haul it out (with nozzle heated up for filament change). Don't lose the horseshoes! When putting the Bowden clips back, first push the tube itself as far in as it will go - you should feel it seating. Then pull up on the white collet to grab the tube, and slide retaining clip in to hold it there. Try to get the feeder tension back where it was before, and print out Robert's replacement feeder asap. The variant I like is this one here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder because it helps guide the filament in a straight line into the feeder. Not only is it easier to tweak tension on Robert's feeder, it's also easier to correct after minor calamities like this one.

Not really an accurate comparison. Mobile phone technology has led to packing the same ability into a smaller space. But the Go isn't a replacement for the UM2, it will be sold in parallel. So I too am with the "I don't get it?" camp!

I was thinking the exact same thing. It must still need essentially the same list of components, and I don't see that you can really skimp on the component specs (e.g. stepper motor max torque), so I wondered how there could be a significant price difference. I also can't see the filament, but I assume it can't take the same size reel as the current UM2. Sell at below cost, use custom filament spool and make the moolah from consumables?

That belt drive is a little "advanced". I wouldn't go for that just yet (not until it has proven itself with many users). Those of us who replace the stock feeder tend to go for Robert's replacement, found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two.

Also consider the quality of the filament. E.g. if the dimension is variable, so is the tension.

If the filament is oversize then it may have trouble getting through the gap between the drive cog and the idler wheel (bearing). You would have to back off tension. If the filament has a tight curl then it's possibly just getting hung up somewhere. I would recommend a switch to Robert's feeder. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two ...or the variation on it which I actually use. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder Not only is it easier to tweak the tension on this feeder, it's also great for quick filament changes: you can manually poke the new filament into the bowden tube before closing the tension arm, so the problem you describe simply couldn't occur.