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rx2mazda

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  1. I really liked the look of the Ieyo model by Braddock so I decided to print it on my OG Ultimaker. Sliced in Cura 14.03 test 1, .1mm layers, 195 temp, 50mms, cross flow fan and UBIS ceramic. Colorfabb Dutch Orange.
  2. Stop printing so much and stock your suppliers, mainly PrintedSolid.com so I can keep my business running!
  3. came downstairs to this........... whats the best way to fix this? I'm scared of melting the plastic. Take the contacts out of the connector and solder?? Thanks.
  4. +1 to the twister blocks not playing nice with gt2 belts. I love the reptars, they are by far the easiest and work beautifully with the 303Gt2 belts. Ordered the hardware for a few dollars.
  5. I too tried the Twister Blocks and then took them out. I switched to the Reptar V2 "blocks" with GT2 belts and pulleys.
  6. I will have to second hreedijk, I'm very happy with my UBIS. So much in fact that I bought spares! I also printed my Mount in XT and its holding up great. I kept cracking Nick's original design when trying to push the bearings in, luckily hreedijk had the same problem and modified Nick's design a bit to make them fit better. Here are the Molex part numbers for the UBIS connectors. They are Micro-fit 3.0... Connectors #43645-0200 & 43640-0201 Pins #43031-0007 & 43030-0007 I got mine from Allied Electronics, their part numbers are.. Connectors #70190832 & 70190902 Pins #70190633 & 70190802 I hope that info helps someone. I have quite a few left from my order so If you need the connectors/pins just shoot me a PM. Here is a print I have going on right now....so clean
  7. It still says "retiring". I call BS though. Either way, I'm happy with mine
  8. While I totally agree with you on the BS of the current "a la Apple" practice. They do have a replacement program where you pay $10 and they replace your hotend.....https://printrbot.com/shop/10-hot-end-replacement-program/ I purchased this hotend 2 weeks ago and it is by far the best thing I did. Heats up super fast and stays at the set temp, no hunting, no questions asked, doesn't matter if a fan is on or not! The second print I did was by far the best print to come off my machine. If I didn't know what I know now, I would be with you on staying away. Now, I don't see myself going back to the stock V2 hotend unless its out of necessity.
  9. Built a custom firmware http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/. Choose the Basic Ultimaker + Heated Bed(100k,Relay) + Ulticontroller template. and loaded it through Cura to my Ultimaker. Bed runs Bang-bang off the supplied switching relay. I do have a IR temp reader but I didn't check the bed with it. I did check the temp on my UBIS Hotend and it was correct within a degree or two and the Bed is showing the same temp at room temperature as the UBIS so I called it good. I bought the PSU that they sell on the eBay page. That PSU is only 24v,10A 240watt so it can't power both. In the future I'll probably switch to a power supply that has enough power for both so I can keep my minimalist taste happy. Like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-15A-360W-AC-DC-PSU-/350845354968?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b00343d8 Good luck. Let me know if I can help anymore. gr5: edit - fixed link
  10. I just installed this Heated Bed Kit on my Ultimaker. I was originally planning to wait for Ultimaker to release a Heated Bed Kit but seeing this Kit and this price swayed me. Took me about 2 hours with all the soldering to the board and lengthening wires. Here are my thoughts: 1. This is the best "Heated Bed Kit" for the Ultimaker that I've seen. Mine didn't come with the 4.7k Ohm resistor for the board so it wasn't a complete kit but, the new ones include the resistor. To make this a complete kit I think that the supplied wires on the pigtail should be longer so you have enough wire to run to your power supply and relay. Even still, I'm very Happy with the purchase! 2. I had to debur the holes for the leveling screws so that the Bed would work nicely with the springs. 3. I'm using the 24V power supply that is linked on the Ebay Page. Works really good! Bed heated up to 60 in about a minute. 4. I really love how low profile this whole package is. I've seen some Heated beds that add a lot of bulk and weight to the platform. I am a minimalist when it comes to design so this Kit fits right in. 5. Shipping and packaging was fast and great. I'll be printing on glass until my Kapton sheets get here and then I'll probably print right on the aluminum and Kapton. Here are some pics. This was my attempt at a temporary fan solution. I Frankened some file together really quick in tinkercad to make this fan mount for a 60mm fan I had laying around. works great! I also have a suction cup fan that you can see above the printer in the first pic...that little thing blows strong.
  11. I just ordered mine from here... http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/4pcs-lot-Ultimaker-Graphite-Bushing-Copper-Sleeve-8X11X30MM-Free-Shipping/223642_1695081636.html They are 8mm longer than stock bearing. I also just upgraded to the twister blocks but I'm going to switch Nick's ReptarV2 blocks instead.
  12. If you change it after you've loaded the files it usually won't "take" until you move one the objects, which triggers the refresh.
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