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rx2mazda

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  1. I really liked the look of the Ieyo model by Braddock so I decided to print it on my OG Ultimaker. Sliced in Cura 14.03 test 1, .1mm layers, 195 temp, 50mms, cross flow fan and UBIS ceramic. Colorfabb Dutch Orange.
  2. Stop printing so much and stock your suppliers, mainly PrintedSolid.com so I can keep my business running!
  3. came downstairs to this........... whats the best way to fix this? I'm scared of melting the plastic. Take the contacts out of the connector and solder?? Thanks.
  4. +1 to the twister blocks not playing nice with gt2 belts. I love the reptars, they are by far the easiest and work beautifully with the 303Gt2 belts. Ordered the hardware for a few dollars.
  5. I too tried the Twister Blocks and then took them out. I switched to the Reptar V2 "blocks" with GT2 belts and pulleys.
  6. I will have to second hreedijk, I'm very happy with my UBIS. So much in fact that I bought spares! I also printed my Mount in XT and its holding up great. I kept cracking Nick's original design when trying to push the bearings in, luckily hreedijk had the same problem and modified Nick's design a bit to make them fit better. Here are the Molex part numbers for the UBIS connectors. They are Micro-fit 3.0... Connectors #43645-0200 & 43640-0201 Pins #43031-0007 & 43030-0007 I got mine from Allied Electronics, their part numbers are.. Connectors #70190832 & 70190902 Pins #701906
  7. It still says "retiring". I call BS though. Either way, I'm happy with mine
  8. While I totally agree with you on the BS of the current "a la Apple" practice. They do have a replacement program where you pay $10 and they replace your hotend.....https://printrbot.com/shop/10-hot-end-replacement-program/ I purchased this hotend 2 weeks ago and it is by far the best thing I did. Heats up super fast and stays at the set temp, no hunting, no questions asked, doesn't matter if a fan is on or not! The second print I did was by far the best print to come off my machine. If I didn't know what I know now, I would be with you on staying away. Now, I don't see myself going back to
  9. Built a custom firmware http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/. Choose the Basic Ultimaker + Heated Bed(100k,Relay) + Ulticontroller template. and loaded it through Cura to my Ultimaker. Bed runs Bang-bang off the supplied switching relay. I do have a IR temp reader but I didn't check the bed with it. I did check the temp on my UBIS Hotend and it was correct within a degree or two and the Bed is showing the same temp at room temperature as the UBIS so I called it good. I bought the PSU that they sell on the eBay page. That PSU is only 24v,10A 240watt so it can't power both. In th
  10. I just installed this Heated Bed Kit on my Ultimaker. I was originally planning to wait for Ultimaker to release a Heated Bed Kit but seeing this Kit and this price swayed me. Took me about 2 hours with all the soldering to the board and lengthening wires. Here are my thoughts: 1. This is the best "Heated Bed Kit" for the Ultimaker that I've seen. Mine didn't come with the 4.7k Ohm resistor for the board so it wasn't a complete kit but, the new ones include the resistor. To make this a complete kit I think that the supplied wires on the pigtail should be longer so you have enough wire to run
  11. I used 18 for the heater and 22 for the thermistor.
  12. I just ordered mine from here... http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/4pcs-lot-Ultimaker-Graphite-Bushing-Copper-Sleeve-8X11X30MM-Free-Shipping/223642_1695081636.html They are 8mm longer than stock bearing. I also just upgraded to the twister blocks but I'm going to switch Nick's ReptarV2 blocks instead.
  13. If you change it after you've loaded the files it usually won't "take" until you move one the objects, which triggers the refresh.
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