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Everything posted by rx2mazda

  1. I really liked the look of the Ieyo model by Braddock so I decided to print it on my OG Ultimaker. Sliced in Cura 14.03 test 1, .1mm layers, 195 temp, 50mms, cross flow fan and UBIS ceramic. Colorfabb Dutch Orange.
  2. Stop printing so much and stock your suppliers, mainly PrintedSolid.com so I can keep my business running!
  3. came downstairs to this........... whats the best way to fix this? I'm scared of melting the plastic. Take the contacts out of the connector and solder?? Thanks.
  4. +1 to the twister blocks not playing nice with gt2 belts. I love the reptars, they are by far the easiest and work beautifully with the 303Gt2 belts. Ordered the hardware for a few dollars.
  5. I too tried the Twister Blocks and then took them out. I switched to the Reptar V2 "blocks" with GT2 belts and pulleys.
  6. I will have to second hreedijk, I'm very happy with my UBIS. So much in fact that I bought spares! I also printed my Mount in XT and its holding up great. I kept cracking Nick's original design when trying to push the bearings in, luckily hreedijk had the same problem and modified Nick's design a bit to make them fit better. Here are the Molex part numbers for the UBIS connectors. They are Micro-fit 3.0... Connectors #43645-0200 & 43640-0201 Pins #43031-0007 & 43030-0007 I got mine from Allied Electronics, their part numbers are.. Connectors #70190832 & 70190902 Pins #701906
  7. It still says "retiring". I call BS though. Either way, I'm happy with mine
  8. While I totally agree with you on the BS of the current "a la Apple" practice. They do have a replacement program where you pay $10 and they replace your hotend.....https://printrbot.com/shop/10-hot-end-replacement-program/ I purchased this hotend 2 weeks ago and it is by far the best thing I did. Heats up super fast and stays at the set temp, no hunting, no questions asked, doesn't matter if a fan is on or not! The second print I did was by far the best print to come off my machine. If I didn't know what I know now, I would be with you on staying away. Now, I don't see myself going back to
  9. Built a custom firmware http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/. Choose the Basic Ultimaker + Heated Bed(100k,Relay) + Ulticontroller template. and loaded it through Cura to my Ultimaker. Bed runs Bang-bang off the supplied switching relay. I do have a IR temp reader but I didn't check the bed with it. I did check the temp on my UBIS Hotend and it was correct within a degree or two and the Bed is showing the same temp at room temperature as the UBIS so I called it good. I bought the PSU that they sell on the eBay page. That PSU is only 24v,10A 240watt so it can't power both. In th
  10. I just installed this Heated Bed Kit on my Ultimaker. I was originally planning to wait for Ultimaker to release a Heated Bed Kit but seeing this Kit and this price swayed me. Took me about 2 hours with all the soldering to the board and lengthening wires. Here are my thoughts: 1. This is the best "Heated Bed Kit" for the Ultimaker that I've seen. Mine didn't come with the 4.7k Ohm resistor for the board so it wasn't a complete kit but, the new ones include the resistor. To make this a complete kit I think that the supplied wires on the pigtail should be longer so you have enough wire to run
  11. I used 18 for the heater and 22 for the thermistor.
  12. I just ordered mine from here... http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/4pcs-lot-Ultimaker-Graphite-Bushing-Copper-Sleeve-8X11X30MM-Free-Shipping/223642_1695081636.html They are 8mm longer than stock bearing. I also just upgraded to the twister blocks but I'm going to switch Nick's ReptarV2 blocks instead.
  13. If you change it after you've loaded the files it usually won't "take" until you move one the objects, which triggers the refresh.
  14. My first Woodfill Print. A Altoids tin holder finished with a little Danish Oil. I printed this on my Ultimaker Original with a .8 nozzle and chunky .5mm layers @ 50mm/s
  15. First post in this section, having fun and making money with my new toy! Keeping it basic with the Ultimaker Robot printed in XT on my Ultimaker Original and a Rose I printed for my GF since I spend more time with my printer than her recently.
  16. Here is the response I got from them last week...... no reply no-reply@printrbot.com Feb 13 (4 days ago) to me Hi Carroll - Thank you for contacting Printrbot. At this time, as you know, we're out of 3mm hot ends and cannot promise that we'll have more for sale in the future. If we do, we'll put them back in stock in the store when we do get more. We apologize that we can't be of more help at this time. So, they kinda left it open. I think that they will make them again...
  17. Same here. I just move a part and then the change takes effect.
  18. I hope I'm doing this right.....I tested the water boiling by taking a small bottle cap filled with water and touching it to the nozzle. When I did that I got this on the screen of my Ulticontroller.. ..... Is this normal? Once I cycled it, it was back to normal. Do I just dip it in and out of the water quickly and wait to see if the water boils off or leave it in the water and wait for tiny bubbles around the nozzle? Either way, I had to set my Nozzle Temp to 130 before the water would boil! Moving the head around didn't make the temp jump at all. I tried to test the resistance of the tem
  19. Anybody have a UBIS hotend their willing to sell? PM me, thanks!
  20. Thanks so much, that clip made a big difference! Retraction was always on but I made some changes and its doing much better now. I'm still having this "heating failed" issue which is a real pain! I need to hot lap the printer and I can't. After every print I have to cycle the power switch or I get slow heating then the "heating failed" error. Maybe I have a bad heating element or Temp sensor. When a print is finished and the printhead is at, say 220 and falling and I try to start another the print, the temp will go down a degree or two and then slowly start climbing back. Then I get the heati
  21. Took a video of the blob. Looks like it happens when the head starts extruding at the beginning of a new layer. I got around this problem by thickening the outer wall but, I would like to be able to print faster with the thinner wall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY0P7Nk0dnI Still can't figure out how to add Plugins, any tips would help. Thanks!
  22. In that case, I did update the firmware when I went through the initial setup. I'm still getting this Heating Failed error repeatedly...ugh. Sorry it was really late and I was tired lol. I did understant the article and I want to adjust my Z-accel. Can that only be done on the Ulticontroller? I will do it only the Ulitcontroller though, thanks for the info! I'll inspect the cause of the bumps more today to see exactly whats causing it. I've been searching the forums and Google Groups but, I can't seem to figure out how to use a plugin?! I am a pretty computer savy guy so I feel embarrasse
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