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industrialdesigner-uk

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  1. Focusing on your point that the filament doesn't appear to go into the nozzle....so my next question would be....Is the filament stuck inside the white plastic sleeve? This could happen if the filament had melted and expanded in diameter below the plastic sleeve and then solidified again. The in that case, heating up the nozzle wouldn't help the release of the filament. So......if you can therefore remove the filament from the nozzle by unscrewing the nozzle/fan assembly, you could cut the filament higher up and pull it through by hand from the other end. (the nozzle end).
  2. I think the last comments regarding the likelyhood that the filament has been ground down is extremely likely. When this happens the auto reverse will not be able to move the filament without extra help.....by pulling the filament downwards firmly by hand, as the auto reverse is started up. If that doesn't work, then you may have to take the extruder apart and pull it through by hand, once the nozzle is pre-heated up to about 100*c. Be careful when unscrewing the extruder housing because this also holds the drive motor in place....so unscrew it carefully and make sure you see how all the parts fit together when you pull the cover off. If you're absolutely sure that the filament is not ground down in the drive mechanism and the at the mechanism is working ok..then I guess the next area to focus on is the nozzle assembly.....First check if the nozzle is heating up properly, before you start stripping the head down.
  3. Hi 3Poro, I can see where you're coming from, but my view would be...try not to worry too much. My UM2 was delayed by over 4 weeks and I was close to cancelling my order for similar reasons......In my case, I would call them and they would say that mine would be shipped at the end of the next week, but that didn't happen, and each time I called I would get a similar reply.....but.....eventually it did come. I had a technical inquiry even before I was able to make my first print. This was due to a blocked nozzle. The support at Ultimaker has been good, and despite my initial frustrations, I am a happy customer. I have the attitude that I have to over look the delays and the odd technical issue because I know that the company is going through a process of pretty rapid evolution. I'm pretty sure this is because the UM2 is a new product and it has been a fantastic sales success for Ultimaker. The product is one of the nicest out there. From what i've experienced so far, the guys at Ultimaker are a great bunch of people that are passionate about what they do....we need to give them a chance to do their best for us. Hang on in there !
  4. Yes....I think it's possible that you have a problem with your nozzle. I have a new (replacement) nozzle on my machine and it has made a huge difference. Before I got the new nozzle I had a similar problem as your friend's machine, but I recommend that you talk with tech support at Ultimaker first.
  5. Hey....Interesting material......challenging process, it seems. Interesting point about drilling out the nozzle. I have a spare but faulty nozzle that kept clogging...hmm...I think I might dig it out and head for my pillar drill.... 0.8mm you say...
  6. Hi folks, Thanks for the constructive and positive comments...much appreciated ! IronGland, the bike is a Harley Davidson XR1200. The great thing about that bike is that they are really popular for people who want to customize their bike...makes it commercially interesting for me.
  7. Ok. so, I thought I would put my UM2 through it's paces and print some larger components in ABS. These are for use in a motorcycle project i'm working on at the moment. An under seat storage tray and a mount for the tail light, indicator lamps and licence plate. The storage tray was too large for the print envelope so I split it into two and made an interlocking joint feature to make sure the parts came together accurately and also give me a good bond area. The tail lamp mount was a very complex piece. It is shaped to fit on to the end face of the storage tray and is a visible styling feature on the bike. The whole assembly mounts and integrates with the bikes rear subframe and upper bodywork and seat. I'm impressed with the over all finish and integrity of the parts. However, I have found that there are one or two print layers that are not perfect and might weaken the parts. That's a shame because over all, they have come out really great.
  8. Hi Chris, After a slightly challenging start with my UM2 late last year, due to a faulty nozzle, i'm am now getting on really well with my machine. Ultimaker have been very helpful in resolving my issues, so I think you can buy with confidence. Good luck with your new printer!
  9. Hello Sjel...We are both working on a similar task, I think. BIGGER prints ! I am beginning to make some really good large prints in ABS, thanks to the help from helpful advice given to me by some kind forum members here. Good luck with your project !
  10. Hey.. ...great website. The presentation of your cad models and the 3d prints are really good.
  11. Looking at your photos again and I can see that there are thin patches of print material in areas other than one side or the other. This got me wondering if you are getting a constant feed through the extruder(?). I had a faulty nozzle that kept running dry of material. I replaced the nozzle and now my prints are much thicker and have more consistancy. Just a thought.
  12. Ok.....here are a couple of images of the part. I am in the process of printing the other half of this large component. I plan to bond them together. The parts also interlock.....It will be interesting to see if the parts are accurate enough to fit together. I made a 0.2mm clearance between the interlocking surfaces. Fingers crossed !
  13. I have had similar issues, but I think that I might have overcome the problem by doing the following: Clean off any filament residue from the end of the nozzle. When you start the levelling sequence, tighten up the finger screw at the back a few turns and do the same at the front of the bed. Do that before you start winding up the bed with the thumb wheel. This puts a bit more tension into the springs. Make sure you adjust as carefully at the 1mm stage for all three points as you do for the paper 'fine' gapping. (I use a piece of card that is about 1mm thick. In the final two thumb screw adjustments I think it's quite important to be really careful to match the left and right clearance....yes, I agree with you, it's really easy to get the bed to flex downwards when you push the paper in the gap, but a sensitive touch is the important thing. I am new to the UM2 myself, but still, I hope I have been some help to you.
  14. Hello everyone, Ok I just got around to put a photo up here, so you can see the model that was giving me the problems. And now I can't seem to work out how to upload a photo directly from my computer to the forum....hmm? Aha! It seems that I have to get authorisation from the administrator..hmm..(?)
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