callum-burns
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Posts posted by callum-burns
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Sorry the zip with the schematics I had downloaded had version 1.5.6! despite it saying 1.5.7 on the zip! Yes I will be getting the 5.7 version. I will be using one of these I have lying about: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281218773432 and another for 5V stuff like LEDs and that suff. raspberry pi possibly.
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Will do when I get the parts soon!
Might work or might have a smouldering heap of scrap! -
Great! Thanks for the insight thats good to know. Will I still need to do anything with the MOSFETS of can I leave them as is?
Also the fans: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vfde6674tmi6paj/Screenshot%202014-07-25%2018.42.42.png is part of the schematic
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If i remove all voltage regulators and discard the switch and power jack could I put 24V into the UM shield? I know that for the hotend and HBP I would possibly need to take off the MOSFETs and put them onto a daughter board due to current issues and the tracks?
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Finally someone has tried what I was thinking somewhat. Glad it works!
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I could cry! Someone just printed a carriage for me for the V5! :( *goes off to cry*
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These relay ways of doing the hotbed switching are horrible! You don't need to buy anything extra only need a small bit of stripboard! Just a case of removing the MOSFET putting it onto the external board with the other psu. No need for a clicky relay. Also gives the option of pwm.
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The only place other than Ultimaker to buy them ready made was aliexpress. Arrived perfect!
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Correct. I am doing a self sourced Ultimaker.
. Www.callum-burns.co.uk for my blog and how I am getting on. I need to add a new blog poat as I have gotten some more parts. 
. So far it's been fairly easy to get parts but some parts I have had to get from china. :(. -
Hi what is the least amount of torque I could get away with on the X axis? I have found a nice small motor here that has a torque of 2.5NM?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281319606945
is what I'm looking at.
edit by gr5: fixed link
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This i what I wa planning to do:
Remove the Bead MOSFET from the UM board
Take a wire off the gate pin on the UM board.
Solder the FET you have taken off of the UM board onto a small bit of strip board.
Take the wire that you have put onto the gate pin on the UM board onto the gate pin of the MOSFET on the external board.
Tie your 24V PSU and the 19V side GROUNDS (Drain on the MOSFET) together.
Put HB in between the Source of the MOSFET and your 24V PSU.
Cost: Nothing if you have a bit of strip board lying about.
There is no need for another MOSFET or SSR. Uses parts that you have already too.
Will upload a diagram soon.
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Did you actually build this and have it working, or is it just a theory? It sounds like a very simple and elegant solution...
Alas it's only a theory for now but there is nothing to say why it won't work! So long as there is a common ground. Until I get my UM control board then sadly I can't test it unless someone else wishes too.
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E3d here in the UK sell couplings.
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Im doing the same thing:
- 24V 15A Industrial PSU: LINK
- MK3 Alu heatbed: LINK
- Voltage adjuster/Buck (down to 19V for the UM): LINK
- DC/DC Solid state relay: LINK
Plan is to adjust the 24V down to 19V for the UM board using the buck
Have the UM board control the SSR via the heated bed port, SSR is connected to heated bed and directly to the 24V PSU
You can take off the MOSFET put it on a remote PCB feed 24v into that take a wire off the gate pin onto the UM board were the FET came from. No extra cost apart from a tiny bit of strip board.
simples. -
Looking at it yes. As the fancy adapter covers the pins the UC needs.
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From my understanding that is all you need. Just about every control panel is a copy of the Ultimaker one!
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I am looking at adding neopixels to my ultimaker. They will be used for status LEDS, general ooh ah kind of things and work lighting. I am trying to get how to go about adding this kind of thing to Marlin! IMO is just a mess of code and cant get my head about how it all works!
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I found some on ebay: 350876360704
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I am working on one just now. I can post it if that's ok with the mods. It's probably not perfect and it has parts that I have changed. But the general idea is there.
DFRobot have a lot of the stuff, Ultimaker themselves, eBay, World of CNC (uk) for lead screws and smooth rod. That's some of the places I am goon to use or have used.
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Dual extruder means dual hotends which are by far the component gulping up the most watts on the UM, isnt the standard heater cartridge 60W?
According to the UM spares shop 40W.
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It's not that MacOS really helps in this area. Can you try "Show package contents" on the Cura app goto, "Contents/MacOS" and start Cura from there. It should popup a black terminal window which might show a better error message.
This is what comes up:
Callums-MacBook-Pro:~ callum$ /Applications/Cura/Cura.app/Contents/MacOS/Cura ; exit;
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/Applications/Cura/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/__boot__.py", line 316, in <module>
_run()
File "/Applications/Cura/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/__boot__.py", line 311, in _run
exec(compile(source, path, 'exec'), globals(), globals())
File "/Applications/Cura/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/cura.py", line 83, in <module>
main()
File "/Applications/Cura/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/cura.py", line 40, in main
print "load preferences from " + profile.getPreferencePath()
File "Cura/util/profile.pyo", line 701, in getPreferencePath
File "Cura/util/profile.pyo", line 486, in getBasePath
File "os.pyo", line 150, in makedirs
File "os.pyo", line 157, in makedirs
OSError: [Errno 1] Operation not permitted: '/Users/callum/.cura'
2014-02-19 19:13:09.738 Cura[40307:507] Cura Error
logout
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Would something like this do the trick from 24V to 19V?
Would be idea imo. Waaaaay cheaper than what I found too.
thanks for the link. -
Ah I stand corrected.
it's gonna be busy under there anyways. Don't want to add a bulky relay in there too. My little mod will just attach to where the midget was. -
I bought myself a DC-DC Solid State Relay which should be able to switch on-off every 10 ms. or so... So no ticking... and I guess at those switching speeds PWM is still an option?I bought myself a DC-DC Solid State Relay which should be able to switch on-off every 10 ms. or so... So no ticking... and I guess at those switching speeds PWM is still an option?
My understanding of pwm is that it is pulses of 10s of thousands per second. Varying the number per second to create a output of a certain value. Meaning that your 10ms May be too slow for true pwm. Could be totally wrong though.
Might work or might have a smouldering heap of scrap! 
. So far it's been fairly easy to get parts but some parts I have had to get from china. :(.
24V
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
One wire is just a pulse out for speed.