rick
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3D Prints
Posts posted by rick
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Yeah i was thinking the same, but it prints the borders just fine. It's just the infill that is underextruded.
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Well i have tried different settings already, but it seems to do this anyways. Atm i'm using 225C and fans are at 100% at .5mm
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0.1 layer height
0.8 shell
0.6 bottom/top
fill density 30%
50mm/s speed(same for infill)
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As you can see above my printer only makes a sort of columns with an occasional bridge between them instead is solid fill lines. Even with flow at 105-110%.
It started doing this a while ago, and since i didnt change anything to my printer i wondered if this has something to do with my settings in cura.
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Yess that did the trick ! never knew those settings were available.
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I use inventor for my designs, and my stl files always show up 10 times smaller in cura than what i made them in inventor. Not a big deal, but i guess autodesk software is just a bit wierd with 3d printer files
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Ik ben ook tot nu toe zeer netjes behandelt door het support team. Het duurt tegenwoordig helaas wat langer dan toen ik m'n printer kreeg. Over de wil om mee te werken is geen twijfel mogelijk. Als Ultimaker een slechte naam zou krijgen kunnen ze inpakken, en dat wil niemand denk ik.
Let wel dat de problemen met de UM2 waarschijnlijk niet verdwijnen door de nieuwe ondedelen. Na verloop van tijd komen sommige van je lijstje gewoon weer terug. Helaas hanteren ze bij UM een garantietijd van 3 maanden, waardoor je na deze periode de onderdelen zelf moet betalen.
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Looks like an awesome system !
I have a question though. What made you go with the 1:20 worm wheel gears ? And not for example a 1:1 conical gearset ?
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Ik heb zelf ook 8 rollen van 123inkt, PLA dan wel. Maar het is niet echt een aanrader. De eerste 1 a 2 maanden zijn ze prima(behalve de groen doorzichtige rol), maar daarna is het een ramp. Breekt steeds in de bowden en is heel breekbaar ook na het printen.
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A day too late (because i forgot my wallet yesterday). But i've started working on the parts, I have found all the copper needed to do this.
As you can see in the pic i cut some small pieces of the larger rods, i have about 1m of both.
If all goes well i'll have my lathe tomorrow so i can start milling the parts.
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I've spoken to them at the ulti-evening here in holland, and they're gonna release the parts for the UM2 soon. But as i mentioned in the first post, what UM charges for the parts is close to criminal.
Which is why i wanted to start the project in the first place. If the parts were reasonably priced i wouln't even bother making them myself to save a few euros
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something like this quick model?
Depending on the material you may want to have some copper gaskets rings to allow for a good connection between materials.
Alltough this might work, it still is a overly complicated design. Because metal bars dont come with the nozzle holder already attached you'd have to either mill alot of metal away or weld a round piece to it. By just using a threaded rod you'll avoid all of that.
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I'm just gonna go with the M6x0.75 threads that come with the original hotend. The only real difference is that i need to make a thread in the block part. And thread a piece of 6 or 7 mm copper bar and taper it at the end. Drill a couple of holes here and there.
I could make a 3d render but that's probably more work than actually making a hotend. I'll be goin to the metalstore tomorrow, So i guess i can post some pictures of the first stages tomorrow evening/wed morning.
Good to see there is alot of interest in this ! About buying/selling, i dont think UM would appreciate it if i sell them, because they are practically the same as the original. But if it works and it is possible i'll post all the details on where to get the parts and how to make them here.
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You may want a copper alloy, as pure copper is pretty soft.
I will have to look into that ! But do you think that it will matter ?
Have you thought about a E3D hotend? If you regularly print ABS is might be an option. Then you don't have to design parts and it has a verity of nozzle sizes. There are already some mounts designed for the um1. If I am not mistaken the axis are the same between um1 and 2 (correct me if I am wrong). You might loose some printer hight since the um2 head is quite compact. Compared against the um1 the latest design is comparable to the original print head I think you even gain a couple of mm in height.
Yes i have thought about this, but i dont want to take apart my entire UM2 to fit a new hotend. Also i'm already working on a H2O cooled system that is designed to fit the original assembly
But those E3D hotends are very nice ! -
I'm thinking about making some hotends myself for the ultimaker 2. The reason why i want to do this is because i had to pay 50 euro's for a heater cartridge that is $16 when i get it from china. So i can only imagine what the cost of a full hotend will be.
Also i want to be able to make different sizes for the obvious reasons, .5 .4 .3 and so on. The material i will be using is copper, as it has a higher density than brass and thus a higher surface tention which will minimize the friction. Also copper has a better heat transfer rate, this is not realy important but it's better anyways.
My plan is to make it out of 2 parts, A "nozzle" part and a "heater" part so that the tips are interchangable without having to make the same amount of heater parts. Just like with the UM1 and basically all other 3D printers.
Does anyone have any tips, suggestions, or otherwise usefull info ?
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Yep die heb ik ook, en ik denk 90% van de mensen die dit forum bezoeken ook
goede keus ! -
Haha ja naamplaatjes zijn wel een goed idee. En de belg van het forum zijn is iets goeds toch !haha
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Het forum is mijn homepage in chrome, Als iedereen dat nou doet gaat er nooit meer iets ongezien voorbij
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Hi Rick,
If you need any help on your ticket please send me your ticket-ID.
I've sent you a PM Sander !
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Sadly my Um2 is out of order untill i get a response from support(which is not going to happen before tonight.), woul'd have loved to bring my printer. But i'll be there anyways
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I'm actually on a mission to see if i can get one made from WC(tungsten carbide). It is one of the least heat conductive metals on the planet and as you may know, it is virtually indestructible as they can even cut diamonds with it.
Only problem is to find a milling company that can actually mill it.
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Hey Gr5 !
Thanks for the reply, After taking it apart again i found that there wasn't much left of the insulator this time. I'll mail UM about a replacement one. But seeing as it is "more" resistant instead of "resistant" i'm guessing this will be a returning issue ?
If that is the case i'm gonna see if i can get one made from tungsten carbide, Because i'm not keen on getting replacement parts every few months. Or do you perhaps have any leads on metal insulators for the UM2 ?
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I've had my UM2 for about 3/4 year now, and have not had it working correectly for longer periods of time. So i kinda gave up on it for a while, until i decided that a 2500 euro conversation piece is not the way to go for it. So i replaced almost all the parts that were in some way not working(feeder,bowden tube,loose fan connectors)
But now something that i can't explain/find has occured. For some reason the filament gets stuck somewhere between the ptfe isolator and the nozzletip. This annoyingly happens EVERY SINGLE TIME. It can happen anytime between the start of the print and the end. But i havent been able to print something for weeks.
I have cleaned the entire assembly and taken it apart multiple times to do so.
Has anybody had this issue as well ? and is there a solution ?
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Hey Robert !
Thanks for the reply. I dont know what happens with the fans, maybe the steel mounts are a bit bent so the blades of the fans scrape them and after a while make the fan go out of alignment. But as you can imagine i'm pretty much done with the 40mm's
Yeah i was thinking about making some new side panels to experiment with, but was just wondering how far i could go with "mods" before UM would say it voids the warranty. I'd like to keep the original panels partly because of the esthetics.(the printer is in the middle of my living room)
What Orientation Should This Be Printed In?
in Coffee corner
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Print it in 2 halves mirrorred from eachother by usung the "cutoff from bottom" function. and the glue it together with superglue(in case of PLA) or acetone(in case of ABS)