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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Anders Olsson

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Everything posted by Anders Olsson

  1. It depends how many printing hours you have on the machine? If it has been operating more or less 24/7 (some of them actually do), you could consider replacing the timing belts, there is a kit for that. If the printer only has a few thousand operating hours though I think it will be fine with what you suggested. Pay extra attention to carefully cleaning and re-lubricating the Z-screw with the right type of lubricant as that probably is the most critical component for maintaining good printing quality. The feeder should´t need any attention unless you ha
  2. I hate to admit it but I still use Cura 15.04 (with the same print speed setting for walls and infill) for the majority of my UM2 prints. Cura 15.04 is rather primitive but very consistent and predictable. Cura 2.x and 3.x have unfortunately had numerous bugs, the most annoying ones in my opinion related to excessive travel moves. The 3.5.1 version should have addressed the majority of the bugs, but if you are still not happy with it and can live with a primitive slicer 15.04 might be worth a try.
  3. The only reason for us to use boron carbide is that we want to absorb neutrons and boron (the 10 isotope) has very good properties for this. Boron Carbide is a chemically stable reasonably priced ceramic powder with high boron content (four boron atoms and one carbon atom). While a softer material with high boron content would have been preferable, there are no such options in a reasonable price range. Other uses is for example as a grinding powder, which explains why it eats 3D printer nozzles ? That is the basic reason behind the Olsson block and the
  4. It is a bit difficult to determine what went wrong. - Burnt ABS generally means that you could/should lower the printing temperature a bit, what brand material did you use? - ABS generally don't like cooling fans, on a model like that you should definitely leave the fans completely off (or issues with brittleness and warping will increase) - What slicing software did you use? My experience is that the sudden speed changes and excessive travel moves of some of the more recent versions of Cura made things much worse, compared to the good old 15.04.06 version.
  5. The current prefix that new Cura adds has never been of any use for me, I simply don't move gcodes between machines. What I normally do though is adding the nozzle size (if not 0.4) and adding the plastic type if not PLA. I would write "600um_ABS_Ultimakerrobot" for a 0.6 mm ABS print.
  6. That question was probably not ment for me, but just the past few days I had two persons basically asking me what is wrong with the Cura development lately, because of various bugs that leads to odd behavior and stability issues in recent Cura versions. Personally I have had to roll back to using Ultimaker 2 machines and Cura 15.04 several times lately because all those excessive travels in later versions of Cura ruins the surface quality of objects that I want a nice surface on. When it comes to Cura features, even experienced users who I talk to are unaware of what are suitable setti
  7. In my opinion there are two main issues with Cura currently: - There are way too many releases and while there are bug fixes in each of them, there also seems to pop up new bugs in every release. I would prefer much fewer releases with a minimum of new bugs, more testing before releasing and more focus on removing bugs so that we get to a reasonably bug free version. - While many of the new features in these frequent releases are very nice and useful the interface of Cura is currently too complex. So the majority of the users will never take advantage of things like Ironing or Spiraliz
  8. If you want to design your own syringe extruder you can make one which consists of very few parts if you base it on linear stepper motor. We made the one for out delta printer in the picture using this motor: https://www.elfa.se/en/linear-stepper-motor-moons-16hy7001-11/p/15446018?queryFromSuggest=true You could probably attach such extruder to the existing print head using the print head screws.
  9. Well, the properties of ABS filaments vary quite a lot and the Ultimaker "ABS" is even a blend of ABS, PC and PET, supposedly to make it easier to print. For a pure ABS on the UM2+ I would use the following settings/tricks: - Print temperature 255-260 C - Bed temperature 95-100 C - Fans off (unless the model is really tiny). - Properly cleaned glass plate with two tin layers of Tesa Easy Stick glue. - Some sort of front cover for the printer if the model takes more than a few hours to print. That said, I have found some really cheap Chinese ABS
  10. As long as the surface of the build plate is at the right level, the automatic leveling should in theory work with any material. Here is a printable tool to set the correct distance: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool That said, the automatic leveling measures the (changes in) capacitance between the print head sensor and the build plate and a metal build plate is likely to generate a much larger capacitance than the original glass plate. Even though it should theoretically still detect when capacitance no longer changes because the nozzle hit
  11. Carbon fiber filaments certainly do damage the knurled wheel on the Ultimaker machines, I have photos somewhere but I can not locate them right now. Anyway you will see wear already after a kilo and after 2 kilos you are likely to start getting feeding problems if the spring is on the default 50% setting, 4 kilos and it will be really worn. A hardened bondtech type feeder wheel lasts more like 20 kg or so before it needs to be replaced.
  12. I don't know where they get it from, but most toothed washers should do the job in your case. Just check that the sensor/heater are properly fixed after tightening the screw. Things are a bit different when you mass produce machines, extra safety margins are always helpful there.
  13. Ultimaker-blocks also has the toothed washer but they use another type with improved design compared to the ones used on the initial (and 3DSolex) blocks. It looks roughly like this: You need some sort of toothed washer there for the sensor/heater to stay safely in place! The screw is a stainless countersunk M3x16 mm. Ultimaker/3DSolex uses a Philips drive, but I actually prefer to use a hex head screw I used on the initial batch.
  14. Strange, this forum has always had like 5-10 times the loading time for me compared to other forum softwares. It does not matter what platform or Internet connection I use or which continent I am using it from, still way much slower than I demand for comfortable browsing. The speed has not changed lately for me, so appearance of the new (fast) forum should not be related
  15. Wow, that is a bit scary. I doubt there are any serious issues with the design of the Olsson block, but it is certainly a strange coincidence.
  16. As you might have noticed, I have sadly given up this forum long time ago. It is still, after almost ten months online, unacceptably slow to navigate compared to all other forum softwares and full of annoying bugs. I just can not take this kind of stupidity, that is why I am not active anymore. And I am seriously worried that the mentality that keeps this software alive might bring Ultimaker as a company down in the end. The whole idea if inventing the wheel again in this way is very difficult to understand for me. If the new forum had obvious advantages over all other common forum software
  17. Labern has the answer, these MIG-nozzles happen to fit the Olsson block, I could not resist testing them when I found them at the hardware store I would not recommend them to anyone though. There are other nozzles one could try, just scan the market for M6 threaded nozzles with at least 6 mm long threaded part. Haven't been very active since the forum change, partly because I have been very busy lately, but mostly due to forum related factors. Since Sander asks about me not being active at the forum: While I admire Sanders efforts and patience trying to promote this "forum", I simply had
  18. I thought someone would reveal the truth by now just by the sheer size of the robot It might be a bit offensive to post here, but here is how 850 grams of Ultimaker robot, scale 11:1, was made: Printed with 0.8 mm RSB nozzle and 0.4 mm layers, initially at 50 mm/s but lowered to about 35 mm/s due to heating issues. Printing time 19 hours. Failed overhangs and bridging were fixed using a SMD hot air soldering iron. This was one of the most fun thing I printed so far, the reactions and smiles are priceless The purpose however was to test how well really large things prints, and how well
  19. ..It was just sitting there when I got home from work..
  20. I haven't had time to develop my version as much yet, but it works quite well so far. Whoever claimed you can not use retraction when printing ninjaflex are wrong by the way:
  21. There's a bit of an improvement I think. I printed the Ultimaker robot and it came out better than my previous print. I still have problems with retraction I think (see the antenna) printed this @ .1mm And I call this one "Improvements since my projects went underground when the old forum closed"
  22. I see now why you might have some use for that super hard nozzle I tested mine with XT-CF20 the other day and 100 grams of it did not cause any measurable or visible wear (!) A TiN coated brass nozzle that I then used as a reference did not like the carbon fiber though, it is amazing how this material can wear metal nozzles..
  23. I probably spend a full working day on trying to get the E3D V5 extruder on a Delta Tower to work with PLA. My conclusion is that the E3D V5/V6 all metal design is not suitable for PLA. I tried all possible retraction and temperature settings, improved cooling, tried two different brands of PLA and one PLA/PHA. It just does not work reliably when you have a lot of retractions and the failure modes are exactly the same as when i experimented with a metal spacer and PLA in the UM2. In the end I drilled through the whole heatsink with a 4.2 mm drill and then made a new heatbreak with 4.1 mm in
  24. Try lowering the speed a bit, here is 50 vs 35 mm/s with my UM2 and the new nozzle: (sorry about the lens distortion)
  25. It is probably not much of a help, but I use SEPA MFB30G12 fans on my UM2 and they work fine with PWM: https://www1.elfa.se/elfa3~fi_sv/elfa/init.do?item=54-216-61&toc=20906 The data sheet says 120 mA starting current and 70 mA operating current for these.
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