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Anders Olsson

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Everything posted by Anders Olsson

  1. I had a visit from Ultimaker too last Thursday and we had a rather constructive discussion. We will see what this results in, but I can tell you that the forum certainly looked much better on the previews they showed me.
  2. http://oldforum.ultimaker.com or direct link: http://oldforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/chat/&_popup=1
  3. There is "a rumor" that the chat on the old forum is still working
  4. So, for those of you who are surprised by me leaving this forum, here is my explanation: What makes a forum good? - Nice and skilled users - Valuable stored information - Easy to use layout (easy to post and find information) So, to make a forum successful, obviously you need to attract skilled users willing to offer their help for free. You also need and efficient way to collect and store the information. And you need to present the information in a reasonable way That (a part from the quite useless search function and cumbersome picture upload) was there on the old forum. I spent weeks of my very busy time here discussing and helping people on the forum completely for free, while I could have gained substantial money using that time to work as a consultant, where I seem to have an endless amount of things to do. I did this partly to compensate for all the help I got from other users here. Now, it has been almost a month since the old forum was closed, and when I visit any of the migrated threads here they are more or less useless because of all the stuff that was broken in the migration process. This makes me an unhappy user because: - I spent a lot of my time on creating something which then, for no good reason, was ruined by Ultimaker. - The information in the posts by other users is now difficult for me to take part of, in case I need to find something. The fact that the new forum is filled with bugs, that it does not offer any obvious advantage over the old forum and that the forum layout is completely useless does not make things better. I can not recall that I have seen anything like this before, particularly not in a business case like this, where Ultimakers success is heavily depending on this forum. It also upsets me how much money Ultimaker must have spend on this useless upgrade while ignoring lots of other things that we could have had use for. So really, how can I possibly recommend people to buy Ultimakers if I can not trust that Ultimaker is taking good care of the most important feature: The forum ? And how can I motivate to spend my time here, if everything I accomplished here suddenly is rendered useless by Ultimaker for no good reason ? So if you can convince Ultimaker to reopen the old forum, and that they do not not replace it with anything unless the new thing is properly tested and working, I might be back. But if Ultimaker continues this real-time developing of this beta version of forum, I am off. If the old forum was open I would have had interesting stories to tell you about developing indestructible nozzles by the way. However, this editor already tried to delete this post once (edit:twice) and is driving me nuts by constantly scrolling up when I am writing, so I am going to stop now.
  5. I am about to leave this community too, unless the old forum is opened for posting again within days. I was about to order an UM2GO a month ago, luckily I have been way too busy, so that decision was postponed, and now I am pretty sure there are not going to be another Ultimaker at my place. Nor am I going to develop any of the upgrades I was planning for the UM2. I will focus on general things that fits other printers too instead. And I am not going to recommend anyone to buy an Ultimaker because what I have seen happening lately, with Ultimaker in general and with this forum in particular, tells me that Ultimaker is really going in the wrong direction. After all, the superb old forum was my main argument for buying the Ultimaker and with that ruined by someone who does not understand the importance of the forum, or realize how bad the situation is, I can not recommend anyone to go for this brand anymore. I mean, it is not like you can improve this new forum slightly. The design is fundamentally flawed and if the designer does not (want to?) realize that, we have a major problem. It is not about improving small things one at a time. Put the whole thing in the trash bin and start over! The layout of the old forum was obviously done by someone that had designs skills. Although not perfect, it was pretty good. Since the designer of this new forum is obviously lacking all kind of web design skill, start with that layout of the old forum then and improve what was not working there. I have seen very similar things happening at work, so I can see what is coming, and I think it will happen much quicker than people in charge here realize.. By the way, if you who are leaving are moving to another forum please let me know, because I love to continue somewhere else. Over and out..
  6. I made a new, more extensive, video of how the heater on my printer performs during various stress tests: 00:10 Ramping to 300°C, logging power consumption (about 23W for the heater) 03:20 Temperature closing in at 300°C 04:25 Heater block position (gap between block and fan cap) 04:50 Testing fans at 100% with at 260°C 06:05 Feeding ABS at 255°C 06:50 Testing internal nozzle temperature with thermometer 07:55 Nozzle vs. Block temperature at 260°C (internal=265°C) 10:10 Nozzle vs. Block temperature at 220°C (internal= 226°C) 10:20 Switching fans on 11:30 Nozzle vs. Block temperature at 220°C with fans on (internal = 214°C) As you can see my stock heater consumes about 23 Watts (depending a bit on how the efficiency of the Ultimaker 2 power supply varies with the load) I measured the heater resistance to 27.5 Ohm and the voltage to the heater terminals (when heating) to 24.0 Volts, which means it outputs 21 Watts on the heater. So, as you can see you should easily be able to reach normal printing temperatures with stock components and "the Olsson Block". I hope the video can help people troubleshooting somehow.
  7. I picked some numbers from webarchive: http://web.archive.org/web/20150316054047/http://umforum.ultimaker.com/ If someone write down the numbers from the community page every now and then and we can all easily determine how popular the new forum is compared to the old one (assuming the spam problem is solved, of course). I wonder what has happened to the ~50k posts that are gone after the migration by the way.. (?)
  8. Some features/functions that was there or did work in the old forum and are now gone/broken (apart from that the general design is broken): - All citations, internal links and embedded videos from the old forum seems broken. This represents a tremendous loss of value (money) for Ultimaker and I have a hard time understanding how that happened. Was there no beta tests of the migration software at all, like feeding a reasonably large thread through the software and check that the output looks good? (Nope, I am not going to go through my old posts fixing the links) - The preview button is gone (which results in unnecessary editing after posting). - I keep getting logged out every time i put the computer in sleep mode. - The last-button often points at empty pages in short threads, and in this one it points at page 24 of 26 for some reason. - Information about where the users live is gone (It is useful to know how far away people live if offering help or spare parts, or to know if I can reply in my own language in a PM) - The decision to have only sub forum names on the main page, with not post counters or last poster information, makes the whole page look completely uninteresting to me. I only visit this thread and my heater block thread right now largely because of that. The community page "last post thing", will only work as long as the forum stay as inactive as it is now, if it ever gets back to the former popularity it will most likely mean some categories are never visited by returning users. Having a last post time and date with the posters name and thread name on the forum overview served as a great motivation to visit that sub-forum just to check it out, particularly when someone well known posted something in a category you normally did not check. - The new emoticons is a fun idea in theory. However, since they look rather different compared to what is established as an international standard for emoticons, they don't transfer any immediate emotional message to me at least. So in my opinion they kind of does not do what they are supposed to, giving an instant emotional message. - The automatic html-generation for links and videos was quite nice to have, having to do it manually feels a bit old-school. - The reply window is way too small, which makes it difficult to get and overview over what you reply. - If you open a new tab to the forum when replying, the current tab is automatically reloaded, erasing what you just wrote. (Nope, what you just wrote will not come back if you press the back button :( ) As I wrote before, I strongly suggest to reopen the old forum! This one simply does not provide any advantage over the old one as I can see it, but it has numerous severe bugs and is missing a lot of features that used to be there and the general design and layout is a failure. I really can not see any motivation to keep the new forum, other than in some sort of attempt prevent the developers from loosing their face (which I know way to well is a very common reason for keeping faulty software, my working place has lost millions of euros in very similar cases). Honestly, Ultimaker, you are loosing money and reputation every hour this thing is online. Just look at the how the number of posts decreased, or how your support tickets most likely increased lately, and take a financially sane decision please, for the future of Ultimaker!
  9. I found that I had a video of the (original) heater response on my printer with the "Olsson Block", so I put it on youtube as a reference for you who have problems:
  10. I have mostly been printing ABS at 255-260 C, so it should not be any problem to reach that temperature. The heating time for my machine is about 100 seconds from 20-210 C. Two weeks ago I was printing Polycarbonate at 295 C, which also worked, but that is getting close to using all of the heater capacity. I am using the original heater, which has operated more than 1000 hours by now. - Are you sure the fan cap is not touching the heater block? - Did you by the way upgrade to the latest firmware, to avoid unnecessary heater errors? I have heard that the true power of the heater can differ quite a lot form the stated 25 W, I don't have any numbers though but swordriff may have some data on this.
  11. :-) I might sound aggressive, but just check in the old forum and you get an idea: http://web.archive.org/web/20150316054047/http://umforum.ultimaker.com/ For example: With my current computer I can see four topics at the same time in the new forum. Using the same level of zoom (font size/readability) in the old forum I can see ten (!) topics at the same time. However, there is no additional information in the new forum compared to the old one.
  12. Finally, the login/reset password issue seems to have been resolved. In my opinion, you can go on and do bug fixes an updates, but it does not solve the main problem. The design/layout of this new forum is fundamentally flawed, and you would have to look at well established platforms like phpBB if you want something that is attractive for forum-users. If you do that, you would most likely end up with something that looks much like the old forum, that is why I keep recommending you to open up the old forum again. There is a reason for the old-school look at most forums: It uses colored bars and colored text, different fort sizes, bold text, post counters and various icons in very clever ways to compress lots of information into a small space and make it easy to navigate. It might look old school and trivial, but there are years of testing and developing behind these layouts. It is not strange that people does not feel at home and get a distant/confusing feel at this new forum. The gray/white-ish blur of text and background without any distinct borders or points to fix your eyes on is simply not easy to use. There is a lack of contrast and the layout does not follow established forum standards. Combined with lots of whitespace, lots of scrolling and numerous common "navigation aids" removed, it simply makes the forum unpleasant, confusing and tiring to navigate. It is not rocket science as I said. Look at well established platforms, they look that way for a reason. I have seen another forum where I used to spend some time go a bit in the same direction of fancy/blurry/"modern" look, not even close to as bad as this one, but a bit in the same direction. That was half a year ago and I still spend much less time there than I used to, just because it feels difficult and tiring to use. So if you really want to continue with this thing I strongly suggest that you heavily modify it, preferably copying the layout and functionality of one of the established platforms. I would have thought that it would be more motivated to just buy some ready solution though and spend Ultimakers software budget and man hours on for example improving and adding new functionality to Cura. But that is just my opinion. Maybe there is a good reason for writing your own forum software, which I fail to see right now (?)
  13. Printing recycling codes onto objects is really quite convenient and makes them look a bit more professional too :smile: ABS might be interesting in your case. I print almost exclusively ABS since I often need the extra temperature resistance. It is also easier to "sell" ABS since it is a more well known plastic outside the 3D-printing community than PLA or XT (which is PETG i believe?). Once you got used to working with ABS is it prints very reliably, although it takes some time to learn about shrinking and warping and how to handle / prevent it.
  14. There is a maximum temperature set in Marlin: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L169 #define BED_MAXTEMP 200 However, the bed will not reach more than about 100-110 C easily, unless you build a housing for the printer. I have a fairly old UM2 and it can reach about 100 C if the room where I keep it is 20 C.
  15. Go back to the UMO+ folder and download it all: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus You should see a "Download ZIP"-button a bit down on the right side I suppose there is a way to download individual files too, but I never found out how to do that (?)
  16. They have several new interesting ideas for sure, but they do promise an awful lot I have to say. In my mind they are on fairly deep water right now, promising that many new inventions working flawlessly that soon, that cheap. The amount of money they raised so far should help them realizing the project, but I would not be too surprised if the project fails or they are suddenly gone, to be honest..
  17. You could try using the torque wrench I designed for the UM2/"Olsson block" for nozzle changes on the UMO: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench Most nozzles (including the UMO) has the same M6-thread and similar design of the sealing surface, so I think the torque wrench might be suitable for many 3D-printer models. The torque wrench prevents you from overtightening the nozzle and prevents accidents in case you forgot which way to turn to unscrew the nozzle. You need a 10 mm socket for the UMO nozzle.
  18. You got one of the 30 blocks from the first batch, right? There was a manufacturing error on those ones, as you might have read: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=87291 I tested all of them before shipping though, and all of them worked then, you just had to tighten the screw quite hard. In fact I used one of those blocks myself until recently. Anyway, that does not mean your block is still okay and swordriff has already been talking about sending new replacement blocks in case customers have problems with blocks from the first batch So contact him and I am sure he will help you! (If not, I will personally send you a signed block from the second batch :smile: )
  19. If no one else prints it on the UM2 coming days, I will try to do it during easter. I have some urgent things which needs to be printed first though.
  20. I am currently experimenting with a modified nozzle with smaller flat area. It appears to improve the quality of overhangs. You can have a look at the comparison I made some time ago, the trend seems to go towards smaller flat area (Makerbot MK8): I am not sure if the same thing is valid for stainless steel, I have only been using a modified 0.4 mm brass nozzle so far. Next thing in my list is to test a modified 0.8 mm nozzle, I just need to finish ~50 hours of urgent print jobs first :smile: Anyway, if you have access to a lathe, you try decreasing the flat area of the 0.8 mm nozzle (from 2 mm) to about 1.4 mm.
  21. One thing to do would be to upload one of your models and wait for Ultimaker owners here to accept the challenge :smile: To start with, it is not completely obvious that the UM2 beats the Flashforge, you can check this topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6293-comparison-of-ultimaker-2-to-mankati-xt/?p=91993 I never got any reply in that thread on the how the Flashforge handles fast accelerations though, something that there is most likely a lot of in your models. I imagine this can cause the problems with ringing and that the UM2 has an advantage there. According to my latest tests it also seems like the nozzle design on the Flashforge is a bit better than the UM2 original nozzle, and that that might be the main reason for the quality difference. Some rumors claim new UM2 now ship with a slightly improved nozzle. You will never get away from the fact that having the feeder close to the nozzle will give you slightly better flow control though, but it has most impact on really tiny objects. I designed an upgrade for the UM2 by the way which makes it possible to fit E3D-nozzles and similar, which means you can select from nozzles between 0.25-0.8 mm, and thereby go for finer details or higher printing speed: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/ The Ultimaker can print down to 0.02 mm layers, which tends to take forever but of course also improves the surface quality a lot. I recently printed a solid thing the size of a matchbox at 0.04 mm and 40 mm/s with a 0.3 mm nozzle it took 18 hours. So if you have the patience, you can get really nice prints. In your case, I would also consider testing other filaments. Some of the filled ones for example, like the Laybrick, can give a really smooth, stone-like surface that is almost impossible to get with unfilled plastics. They can be a bit tricky to print though, I would advice to use as little retraction as possible for Laybrick for instance.
  22. In case you are able to get different grades of Kalrez, you could have a look at the data here to select a suitable one: http://o-ring.info/nl/downloads/datasheets/kalrez-ffkm/ What might happen is that an o-ring used without internal support deforms under the pressure from the spring and ends up jamming the filament. Originally, I wanted to get a 1-1,5 mm sheet of some reasonably hard high temperature grade of Kalrez and make a flat seal out of that one. If you can get such material it is really worth trying, since at least theoretically, it seems like a very suitable material for this task!
  23. I was looking at FFKM / Kalrez before we ended up with the I2K (Polyimide). Some grades of FFKM are rated at 327 C, which is highly interesting. Chasing down one of those for a reasonable price in suitable dimensions was another thing though.. We ended up testing a grade of Polyimide that could be bought and which is rated at 280 C for continuous use (some sources say 300 C). FFKM is interesting because it is a type of rubber and thereby should work really well both as a seal and as a heat break. I am not sure how it will handle the pressure though. You have about 2.2 kg of pressure from the spring, pressing the PTFE down towards the heater block. The advantage with Polyimide in this case is that it stays reasonably hard even at really high temperatures, which is not the case when it comes to PTFE for example.
  24. I have probably printed 100 hours now with the I2K 1.5 mm spacer now. Before that, the PTFE spacer had about 250-300 hours of printing with the 1 mm Vespel washer. It still works perfectly fine, but I have not taken the hotend apart to inspect the PTFE spacer lately. I have been switching back and forth between ABS, PLA, Flexible FPE, XT and Bridge Nylon and it seems to work well with all of them. For cleaning the hotend, I use Bridge nylon which I pull at 135 C. It has worked fine so far. At some point I will hack the firmware to go for Polycarbonate at about 300 C, but I have had plenty of other things that were higher on the priority list lately. The design principle for the washer is to keep it thin enough to stay hot, so the plastic in contact with it is molten, but thick enough to get the temperature of the PTFE down below degradation levels. A spacer completely made of I2K / Vespel / Polyimide will be very expensive and will most likely not work with PLA, since PLA gets very sticky when half molten to a rubbery state.
  25. I have been in discussions about diamond coating nozzles lately and I might actually get a sample the coming days since I happen to know a guy with a "diamond machine" :smile: However, diamond is not completely straight forward to work with. There might be other materials which are easier to work with and might give sufficient lifetime of the nozzle. We have several ideas that needs testing, just need to find time... :smile:
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