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Everything posted by codeczombie

  1. Thanks! I raised it to 240mm and now it's OK. No brim/skirt, I hope it works and doesn't fall out of the building plate.
  2. Hi, I searched the forum but didn't find any similar topic. BTW, I'll have to print a box that has one side of 23cm (which is the maximum specified in the build volume measures), when I load the stl in CURA, it's grey, then I'll have to scale it and it becomes yellow when it reaches 22.1cm width. Is there a specific setting to reach the maximum printable width? Thanks, Alessandro
  3. Thanks Braddock! I should definely try it out. I'm using colorfabb white filament at the moment because it's easier to smooth than other brands, but if you say this bronze it's even easier, it may be the right solution.
  4. That's an amazing piece, Braddock. Are those parts of a bigger project on skulls? It would be a great help to know how you eventually sliced and oriented the pieces on the bed of the printer, I see overhangs everywhere, it would be a nightmare to me.
  5. Great print, Mariem. I'm using Loctite glue, don't know if there's something better, but it's fast and (to me) it's working great.
  6. Yet another masterpiece from Braddock, as usual. Amazing, mate.
  7. This is very interesting, GR5, I checked and it says to put it at 3000mm/s, mine was already at 3000mm/s do you think a lower acceleration would be even better?
  8. Hi Mariem, so maybe that squeek it's just temporary, I hope, never had that issue. Did you try the change material procedure? Since it will kind of "mega-retract" the material, you can check if it will make a "mega-squeek", so you'll know if it's an issue related to the speed of the loader. About the print, it would help if you also post a screenshot of how you settled the supports. I tend to avoid like death the overhangs, the always come out messy also at low angles by slicing the model in multiple parts. It's a pain in the a$$ but for these kind of models I guess it's inevitable. Sho
  9. Hey Lennart, I alway use decimation master and go, at least, at 20% of the polygon count. Then I check and eventually repair the STL file in Netfabb, just to be sure. I don't know, maybe I'm not using it properly, but I just generate some supports and then play with the settings. cheers, cdczmb
  10. OK, no big deal, it's just the retraction that pushes back the filament that has some friction on the holder. Did you put the filament inside one of the two guides or all the way back to the rear panel of the printer? Same issues with meshmixer, plus it crashes a lot. I watched again the video and now I'm not that sure about my previous consideration. Does the sound come out of the loader or somewhere else like the filament older?
  11. If I'm in a hurry and the print is consistent enough (not too small otherwise it will bend), I use a razor blade which I slide under the print on the perimeter, just enough to let it detach from the bed. Be very careful, couple of times I got small cuts on my fingers. BTW, it looks like I'm the worst one when it comes to glue the bed glass.
  12. Thanks Paul, you know your amazing work is the reason why I bought an UM2. Your point on keys is correct but I've been thinking if it wouldn't be easier to create it in post production rather than directly by the printer. I'll do some tests with just keys printed at lowres, to see if I end up with something decent. About the supports, I don't know, every time I try to print something with supports, it ends up with a "not that much better" result, maybe I do something wrong, I'd like to see some more detailed photos about other people results because sometimes I see people happy with prints
  13. Thanks Paul, I feel pretty bad now. Well, at least my next one won't be a FFF/FDM printer.
  14. Actually, after some tests, I must admit I'm not a huge fan of the keys because they ad new problems to solve. If it's a negative key, it's pretty OK wherever it ends up, but when it comes to positive keys, here comes the troubles because if it's on the bottom, then you'll end up with a total overhang and sometimes it's just easier to glue two perfectly flat surfaces and then get rid of the gap by sanding and "epoxing" it, operation that you'll need to do anyway with keys. I also hate supports, they slow down too much the print so I simply end up by slicing the model in order to get as less
  15. Thanks gr5, I changed the settings as suggested, also lowered the nozzle temp from 220 to 210, printed the head and found out that some issues are gone, less hairs and bumps. Later I'll reprint the body (hairy piece) and see what happens, it takes 16 hours so I'll know (and let you know) tomorrow. For the layer resolution, fact is that I need a supersmooth surface, previously I printed at 0.06 and had to prime and sand too much, I prefer to wait more hours for a print that needs less sanding than having a faster print that will let me lose days on post-production. One thing I can't stand
  16. Hello, I printed with a brand new PLA from Colorfabb (as mentioned on the title) and it ended up with a good result but with a lot of "suspicious" very thin hairs all around the piece. Getting rid of those filaments was pretty easy, but I'd like to understand if this is an issue due to a wrong setting or just a regular kind of side effect. I printed at 220°C/65°C then I lowered a bit to 215°C/65° I'm now printing ad 210°C and it looks like it's making less "hairs" but it's a different piece so it's not an accurate comparison.
  17. "Dat beast!" (paracit.) sorry for the base. :(
  18. Totally agree with braddock. IMHO, I have to say that, with Zbrush, I found out that an intuos, in terms of usability, is totally comparable to a cintiq (which I'm using). When I switched from intuos to cintiq, I had some problems inside Zbrush because of my (drawing) hand that was partially hiding the model. But, with 2D drawings, a cintiq is unbeatable and not very comparable to an intuos.
  19. Thank you so much! I totally agree about your considerations, prior to the UM2 I was checking for a SLA printer, since the resolution is way higher but I just found 2 models B9C and F1, not that easy to get in Italy. BTW, except for some issues, I'm very happy about the UM2.
  20. You're welcome, pal, it's great because you have amazing sculpts wonderfully printed. Means a lot in terms of inspiration/motivation. Thanks for the hint! As soon as I'll be back from a small tour in Switzerland, I'll try my brand new (delivered today) unopened Colorfabb filament with these settings. I did a couple of tests today, on a small hand, with the usual Ultimaker blue PLA and it came out kinda like "no.hope.". I also tried to put the overhang supports from 45° instead of the default 60° but it didn't change that much.
  21. Maybe it's the IG quality but, looking at your photos, I feel like I'm getting a 10% out of your 100% from my UM2. Looking forward to see your "not so good results".
  22. Braddock, are you telling me that, after 1 month trying to fine tune for a decent print, with Colorfabb it will all be lost?? Looking at your prints on IG, I see you almost don't have overhang issues, I really don't understand how it is possible.
  23. Yes, at least I'll have some different filament to test on, waiting for the one from Ultimaker, sooner or (probably) later.
  24. Holy! Trying it right now with new specifics as you suggested: 190°C nozzle and 50°C build plate. Will tell you in an hour or so. The start of the print looked way smoother, slicing of the model looked way faster than previous Cura version. Let's hope for the best!
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