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Looks like they still work - I don't know why they didn't yesterday, but today I tried to control them with an BusPirate (a little device for the PC) and they did what I told them There are so f*** much settings, I feel a bit lost... but I stumbled across one which is called "shaft", guess what it is: "invert axis" - yay!!! The driver is running on my Ultimaker now. It's still uncomfortable because I have to set the driver up everytime I power up the machine. I will play around with all those settings now. After that, we should think about better solution (maybe an external microcontroller, which would be easy, or - if there are enough pins left, we could also use the already existing). cheers and good night!

Hey everyone, I tried the new SSS drivers (TMC 2130) around a week now. I learned a bit about how to operate them and how to use the new features. And... finally I also learned how to blow them up In this thread I want to collect information about the benefits of the new drivers and how to do install them correctly on an UM Original and similar RepRap based electronics. The other thread is used to discussions, problems, "brainstorming" and so on. GENERAL INFORMATION The new stepper driver TMC 2130 (IC by Trinamic, StepStick by Watterott) supports the following microsteps per full-step: 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128 and 256. Every of those resolutions can be interpolated to 256 steps like you may already know it from the TMC 2100. The maximum current is now 1.7A per coil (2.5A peak) - on the TMC 2100 it was 1.2A/1.7A peak. There are three exciting new features, which are called dcStep, stallGuard2 and coolStep. I will explain the benefit of those a bit later. Standalone If you don't want to use the new features (like stallGuard2), you can run the drivers in a mode called "Standalone". Simply solder a bridge on the little pads, like on the following image: You can then use them very similar to the TMC2100, everything is controlled via the CFG-Pins. SPI Interface But, what IF you want to use the features? The Pins which are used to configure the driver in the standalone mode (with jumpers), are the same Pins which you can use for an SPI-connection. Therefore you have to connect the drivers to a microcontroller, which then sets up the driver and reads out the lost steps, the current load and so on. To simplify things a bit I will start by using an external Arduino (instead of the one which runs the rest of the machine). But regardless of whether you use an external microcontroller or not, you definitely must not connect the Pins to the Mainboard in the SPI-Mode, instead you have to do something like that: The other side of the wires are connected to the Microcontroller. Registers Everything on the TMC2130 is stored and controlled through Registers, and there are many of them (around 20-30). I don't want to list them all here, instead i wan't to show you an example: There is a Register called CHOPCONF which starts at address 0x6C. In this register there is a section which is called mres (Bit 24 to 28). If you write an dual 1111 into it, the stepper will run in full-step mode, and if you write 0000 into it, the stepper runs in 256 microsteps mode. If you are interested in the other settings, take a look at the datasheet or at my register-definition-file here. to be continued...

HOLY CRAP That's soooo creepy! But yes, looks like a clogged nozzle (or maybe a too fast extrusion for a too low temperature) and a little space on the upper thread (on the upside of the heaterblock). Damn - at least you your filament don't slip XD

To everyone else: Read the FAQ before you install them (you can order them in 1-2 weeks according to Mr. Watterott)... This is why mine blew up: https://github.com/watterott/SilentStepStick/blob/master/docu/FAQ.md#what-to-consider-when-turning-the-power-supply-on-or-off

Looks like i damaged both drivers today when I tried to install them on the Ultimaker. No updates until i fixed them (or bought new ones).

Indicator: I will install it on the extruder within the next days. I think it is most useful there. As an Indicator I am going to use an RGB-Led instead of a striplight I think.

StallGuard-Test:

Those drivers are crazy, unbelievable - I mean... there is a register for nearly everything. And, even if you don't need it, those drivers support up to 256 native (real!) microsteps per full step and also interpolation to 256. everything works easy with SPI. Only "downside" is that you need a Microcontroller to set it up and use the extra functions - if you don't use the standalone configuration.

@drayson: good idea! maybe we can integrate that in bulles online-builder (https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/) or even the marlin fork he uses. edit: I tried again: whether this movement happens or not depends on the pin where STP is connected to. on my arduino uno it does happen e.g. at 5 but not on 13. That explains why it happens on the Extruder1 but not on E0. The mentioned jumper really fixed it. if you have one, use 4,7kOhm instead 10kOhm (or maybe even lower - Mr. Watterott wrote an eMail to me and told me that 10kOhm is the upper limit - since the TMC uses internal pullups and pulldowns itself, to determine what the pin is set to).

Update! (see first post)

update, see first post

i will analyze the signals this evening with a logicsniffer, will tell you if i know more edit: unfortunately I wasn't able to capture the signals with my low-budget logicsniffer until now, i really should buy a digital oscilloscope @drayson: does it work for YOU on the UMO?

I really think hard about it but until now I don't know it - anyway - we will find it out in the end, that's for sure Concerning Watterott... I don't want to bother him with too many questions (I'm sure i have to ask a lot for the TM2130 this or next week) - but, sure, you can ask him if you want

The other driver is naturally connected to other pins on the Arduino. The Pins are set to INPUT on startup and remain in this state until the bootloader is finished... but i don't know why it affects only some of the pins (STP of Extra Extruder). Okay, no mkII - but maybe an arduino or buspirate? You could then simply delete the bootloader and upload the firmware directly, this should also fix the problem. Or maybe we can change the bootloader?

Ah yes... EN is still LOW until the text appears. I tried it on my machine and it's the same here on Extruder 2. I never understood why they didn't installed a PullUp on the EN-Pin (to deactivate the stepper until we need it), the A4988 even has a PullDOWN installed (why?). Anyway,... The SSS does not have any Resistor integrated on EN, you could therefore simply add one yourself (yeah, I know it's ugly but at least it works): EN<->Vio: 10kOhm (more or less,...) - do it on your own Risk EDIT: Mr. Watterott told me, and he is obviously right, that 10kOhm is maybe a bit too borderline, if you have one, prefer a lower resitor (I guess around 4,7kOhm). ... what I don't understand is, why it doesn't happen with the A4988... hum. Btw.: do you have an AVR mkII?

Heya, I edited my last answer in the meanwhile? Does the movement happen before the Text appears on the ulticontroller?

@drayson: just write and "@" before the name Hum, sounds weird :Dare you totally sure?^^ The movement that you see in the video is caused by a "not defined pin state" at the startup (it's not "controlled" by the program but its a sideffect of the bootloader). There are at least three ways to prevent this movement. First is via RST (which is not used in this way on the Ultimaker). The Second is to delete the bootloader and upload MARLIN via an ISP-Programmer (if you have one). The third one is the EN-Pin. To prevent this movement, EN is normally "pulled up" (and therefore the stepper is deactivated) until the arduino wants the stepper to move. My guess is therefore: your Arduino does not pull up the EN (as it should) on the Extra Driver. To confirm that, please do the following: Measure the Voltage between the EN-Pin-Socket on the Mainboard (remove the driver, you can use a piece of wire for measurement) and GND (e.g. on the Mainboard, near the LED). Start the machine. What does it read? Can you maybe take a video of the feeder and the the voltmeter at the startup? This is how it should look like: Does the movement happen before the display-text appears?

@drayson: does it look like this?

Hey @drayson, 1) is it always the same movement? 2) Please try the following: Switch the drivers from E0 and E1, is it still E1 that moves at startup?

Hey everyone, I always had problems with underextrusion, sometimes it was caused by the filament, sometimes by the bowden tube and/or the nozzle and sometimes the extruder, where grinding and slipping occurred again and again. I tried a lot of selfmade extruders like the H3, Robert's and other UM2 clones. I bought a 0.9° high torque stepper motor, an UM2 drivegear, the MK8 and so on.... Some worked for a while, some was crap from the beginning on... Finally I decided to buy a new commercial, stronger Extruder which can simply brute-force the filament through the old bowdentube and the nozzle, even if the speed between infill and walls differs widely and the temperature is good for the slower walls but a bit too low for the infill. I chose the Bondtech Extruder QR 3.0 Universal. Order The price is definitely high, no question - but you know that before you click on the "add to cart"-button. Whar some may not know is: if you live in the EU, you have to pay VAT and fee in addition! When I then calculated my final price (incl. shipping AND taxes AND fee), it was about 200$ in the end. On the upper right corner of the website (the shop), you can select if you want to see the price with or without VAT. 200$ is really much if I think about the price of the whole machine... but if this is finally the solution to at least some of the underextrusion problems - it is probably worth it. Delivery Normally, the Bondtech Extruder is shipped via FedEx Priority International. I asked the (Mr. Bondeus) if there is maybe a cheaper solution and therefore he offered me "FedEx Economy International". The Costs where around 15$ instead of around 30$ and the shipping took 2 working days (instead of one) from Sweden to Germany. Wonderful! The contact was really friendly and very helpful overall. FedEx Economy is not yet available in the online-shop. Unboxing The Extruder is shipped in a little, stable and lined box in a FedEx Shipping Bag. Perfect! What's included? The geared stepper-motor, the Extruder itself, a mounting-bracket for the UMO (if you order one! costs around 7$), a piece of filament (which is the "testpiece" of my extruder - I guess), the cable for the UMO and - last but not least - a pack of delicious sweets (no worry, it isn't empty when delivered ). Everything was delivered pre-mounted (nice!), therefore the installation should be very easy - right? What i ordered was the "universal" version! If you order one for the UM2 (e.g.) the content may differ a bit. Installation The UMO-Bracket What i first recognized: the mounting-bracket is... well... not the very best It simply doesnt fit because of the end-caps and you cannot longer use two feeders (at least not two bondtech- extruders). My guess: this is still the same bracket as for the V2 Extruder (which seems to be a little bit smaller). In the meanwhile Mr. Bondeus redesigned the bracket, it fits now The cable The cable is shorter than the original, but still long enough. It's a bit tight to plug in the connector on the UMO-PCB maybe, but it works. I don't know why the cable isn't twisted as the original, it is common practice to do so - but maybe it isn't really necessary here. Anyway - i just did it myself - you just need a needle to unplug the wires... it's easy Mounting direction The Universal Extruder is mounted to the stepper in a way, that the cable comes out on the "upside". On the UMO I prefer it on the bottom, therefore I reassembled the extruder and rotated the stepper by 180°. Just unscrew the extruder and rotate the motor or the extruder itself 180°. E-steps/mm According to the producer, you have to adjust the E-steps/mm to 492.45. To do so, there are at least three ways. Upload a new firmware, execute a special GCODE or use the Ulticontroller. I prefered the last one for now (CONTROL -> MOTION -> E-Steps/mm). In fact this value was a bit too small for me, I recommend to find the optimum youself (see here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide/de). Keep in mind that every filament differs in hardness and perhaps also in diameter, the value which is perfect for one filament is maybe too high or too low for the other. You can compensate this by the diameter-settings in CURA and the flow value (this is the only reason I know where the flow value is useful). Motor Current Set the motor current to a maximum of 1.2A! Otherwise you will harm the motor (which will become very very hot). In Operation Quality and Usability The housing is selective laser sintered and feels very stable. The gears are perfectly machined, even hardened (as the website says). They look like they will last forever There is a new "spring loaded lever" on version 3 (QR) of the Bondtech-extruder, and... well - i don't like it very much be honest. I would prefer another approach to quick-load the feeder - something like a snap lock?! The problem is - if the spring is too lose, the gears may slip and underextrude and if it is too tight, you cannot "quick load" the feeder anymore (or the filament scratches on the gears). Therefore you have to find the perfect setting... Filament This Extruder is originally designed for 3.00mm filament (there is also a 1.75mm version)! You can use 2.85mm too, but the grip is maybe not as good as with 3.00mm filament. Loudness I highly recommend to use SSS-Drivers for the Extruder since the Stepper is a bit lounder than the original (but the retraction is less annoying). It's also a easier to damp the connection between motor and mount since it is just a bracket. Conclusion I really never had such clear marks from the drive gear and was never able to print that fast with so little problems of underextrusion. I like the stable and very professional design. There are maybe minor issues like the not sooo useful lever (at least it's way easier to release pressure than in V2 of the extruder), but... anyhow! If the next version of the feeder will be released, you can most probably upgrade your personal feeder for relatively little money (32.70$ - excl. VAT - for the upgrade from V2 to QR). I would say the Extruder is absolutely worth the 200$ (or 131$ if you live outside the EU), especially if you suffer from recurring underextrusion!

yes i know,... today is everything but "soon" Anyhow, Mr. Watterott will send a TMC 2130-stepstick prototype withing the next days - stay tuned!

ah yes i see, that's better than cutting and soldering

i like the idea that I can revert everything and bring it into original condition again - i just don't want to cut, solder or drill anything if not necessary. sooner or later you will have to understand marlin (and how to build it) at least a bit, and it's not a big deal to make one... until then, to each his own

@mariuszem: if you change it for the z axis too, you have to touch the firmware anyway - or use the ulticontroller. But a new firmware is never a bad idea I guess. It's good to understand MARLIN at least a bit...

"Invert axis" should be called "invert direction" or something like that... :DThe SSS is generally driving the motor counterclockwise when the A4988 is driving it clockwise and vice versa. In order to fix that, you have to check "invert axis" if it is unchecked by default or uncheck it, if it is checked by default. This is true for all the steppers, x y z and e. But, yes - as Tommy already said, the direction is influenced by more than one factor (geared or not geared feeder, position of the knurled bolt and filament, short belts or direct driven x and y, and so on...). Howsoever... that's definetly not the reason why you are losing steps, how does it "sound and look" like if you lose it? Have you tried to increase or decrease the voltage? What is the voltage set to at the moment?