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I ordered mine yesterday - I can't wait for it, i had extrusion problems again and again since i bought my ultimaker. it became better on the first layers when i installed the heated bed - but it's still a problem if the speed of infill an walls differs to much or if i print much faster than 50mm/s. I think it is an combination of more than just one problem, my bowden is not new at all and the hot end have seen better days too. Maybe it's also the knurled bolt,... Im just tired of trying to fix it I will keep you informed and will write a review with some before/after pictures and tests. Btw.: The gears from bondtech are hardened, i think they will do their job for a long time. Cheers

If you don't face any problems you don't need it But if you are interested, take a look here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-mod-motor-corner-endstop-version But I really recommend metal bellow couplings as i have installed now (not the ones at the picture). They have zero backlash (but are not so easy to get and very expensive).

Too fast for direct drive?

I looked again: i am no longer sure that the noise comes from the electrolytic capacitors, it is more likely that it is caused by any of the ceramic capacitors (see here)... The problem is that this shouldn't happen since the output of the external power supply should be a smooth DC, can anyone of you measure the supplied power with an oscilloscope? By the way - Is there any pcb layout online?

Yeah, Heated bed, GT2, direct drive and SSS - maybe the best Upgrades I installed so far - Have fun!

Thank you, i appreciate it!

I measured the noise with a piezo-electric microphone and it seems like the noise comes from one of the capacitors. Here it is the Panasonic ZA capacitor (150μF, 35V) "150 V ZA XXX". It is exaclty 50Hz at mine, therefore I guess the capacitor foil vibrates at the power frequency. Corsair explains here (in german), that this can happen if the capacitor is badly coiled.

Hey yoveo! I added the overheating, caused by a too high voltage, to the instruction - thanks!

@eldrick and @stu: what model do you have? UMO? Can you take a picture and upload it maybe? Im still interested

Same here, it's really anoying...

I wasn't online for a while, sorry! I wrote back

looks like everything is fine again - thank you a lot anyway!

thank you for the answer and your kind offer, I will reply tomorrow after some tests.

hey folks, I printed something today (wow!) but... after around 30 seconds or so I recognized a funny scent like burned popcorn, I looked at my ultimaker and saw that the pla started to bubble and smoke came out of the hotend (it still printed, or at least tried to). the temperature was 213°C according to ulticontroller. I decided to turn the UMO off (I'm so clever xD) and then on again - and now it readed MAXTEMP (something over 300°C - can't remember). Any Idea what happened? It was really luck that I didn't leaved the house... At the moment everything seems ok (except of the clogged nozzle, the burnt pla on the nozzle, ....)

Yes, but that's just the frontside of the wooden enclosure. If i tighten the screws, the backside of the wooden part lifts up a bit and becomes askew and scratches the back panel. There are two two holes in the metal plate which are unsued, looks like they just "forgot" to cut out holes for the nuts^^ Yes right, but if you print a very high model... and software endstops aren't enabled... Just looks a bit unprofessional You mean if you don't turn on the heated bed, right?

I installed mine last weekend - I like it but there are also some things they should change... you cannot fix the backside of the wooden part to the metal plate. they removed the "hook" for the lower z-endstop the metal plate is a bit unstable, you can bend it easily if you push the frontside down :/ ah yes the glue stick... what is it good for?

it fit's the A4988 pin layout, therefore: yes! the biggest difference compared to the SSS drivers is the TMC2130 chip (instead of the TMC2100).

Hey everyone! Stephan Watterott, the CEO of Watterott electronic (producer of the SilentStepStick drivers) told me last week that a new stepper driver will be released within the next month. The driver fits the Pololu A4988 pinout and comes with an TMC2130 - which supports the stallGuard2 functions! I can't wait to try that feature EDIT 2016-03-08: Here we go! EDIT 2016-03-08: At first I tried the "standalone"-configuration, to do so you have to solder a short on the little solder-jumper (SPI_MODE-Pin to GND). Works similar to the TMC2100 SSS: You don't need a Microcontroller this way, you can set the microsteps via the Levels on the cfg Pins, just as at the older SSS. The downside is, you cannot read out or set the registers of the driver (e.g. for the stallguard2 Feature) EDIT 2016-03-10: Today I tried the StallGuard2. You can see a very short Video here: EDIT

i really recommend something like that: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126716 once installed, you can easily adjust the distance between printbed and nozzle without touching the printbed leveling.

@Titus: Haha, looks a bit rotten, your Ultibot zombie Was it the same problem?! Btw, i ordered my heated bed today (yeah!)

Wow, okay - that's really much, too much! Can you tell us how you test them? It would be interesting for some of us I guess, if the method is easy enough to do it without too much equipment.

That's exaggerated, right? Even if the Pt100 is a class B type, it should be around +-1,6°C. [+/- (0,30 + 0,005 x t)] But I like the way you answer - it's always comprehensive

no failsafe overrides the values in the SRAM with the values in the hex-file (the firmware), store stores them in EEPROM. you cannot change the values in firmware, the correct "factory settings" will always be there if you need them

have you tried to clean the nozzle (atomic method), maybe thats some old PLA?

It was my pleasure