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Well, I found the problem I guess! If you upload a new firmware, it will not override the values you stored once in the EEPROM. Therefore, do the following: Ultimaker controller: Control -> Restore Failsafe That command (GCODE: M502) replaces the values in SRAM with the ones in the firmware. // M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to. Now you can store them again in the EEPROM (GCODE: M500): Ultimaker controller: Control -> Store Memory B.t.w.: Since the following lines aren't commented out in your firmware, EEPROM is enabled by default #define EEPROM_SETTINGS#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

Take a look here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/blob/Marlin_UM_HeatedBedUpgrade/Marlin/Configuration.h There is one line there that is important: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0,760*1.1} Therefore the z-Steps/mm should be 200.0, not 533.3 - right? Are you sure that the new firmware is installed correct? I will read the instructions for the heated bed... i'm a bit confused since i don't have it installed

533.3 is correct for an ultimaker original without the new lead screw (i heard they changed it, but i don't have an heated bed...). I don't know the new value but i will see if i find it in MARLIN somewhere. But anyway, it's strange... are you sure that the new firmware is installed?

Can you please do the following: autohome the hotend (prepare -> autohome) move the printbed 100mm downwards (prepare -> move axis) measure how much you actually moved (with a pocket rule or sth like that) and, can you tell me your current Z-steps/mm? (Ulticontroller: Control -> Motion)

Looks good, Thanks! Maybe I should change the whole hotend some day... ;D

Hi! I am printing at around 215-220° (0.1mm/50mm/s). I think this is the perfect temperature on my machine but i am a bit confused since normally 210°C should be enough for PLA. Therefore I did some resarch about the thermocouple and the installed sensor. It is an K-type thermocouple and an AD597. According to the Datasheet and Wikipedia I found the following error ranges: AD597 (without calibration): maximum error at ambient temp. of 60°C: +-4°C stability: 0.05°C/°C That means that you have a maximum error of 30*(+-0,05°C) + (+-4°C) = +-5,5°C at 30°C if I am right. Thermocouple type k: class 1 at 210°C: max{0,004 * |t| = 0.84, 1.5°C} = 1,5° class 2 at 210°C: max{0,0075 * |t| = 1.575, 2.5°C} = 2.5°C Let's say it is an class 1 thermocouple, then we have a maximum error of +-7°C, right? Maybe I am missing some details (like a calibration or something)?! But if I am right, than it is quite a lot and maybe that's one of the reasons why Ultimaker changed to Pt100 sensors... Is there maybe already a solution for Pt100 sensors at the UMO, or is there any other reason why this will not work?

Yeah right, according to a conversation on groups.google it's an K-type thermoelement. Thanks!

On the one thread you said: On the other: I'm a bit confused?!

Hi! Some of us try to find an easy solution to measure how accurate the temperature sensor on our machines is. Therefore i tried to measure the resistance of the PT100 with an Ohm-meter. The funny thing is, at about 22°C it shows me around 3Ohm - that's kinda weird since a real PT 100 should have 100 Ohm at 0°C as far as i know. Am I missing something? Why isn't it like I expected? Is it really an Pt100 in the UMO or maybe something else?

@SandervG: I added the suggestion about the flattened filament. If the markings are too deep it instructs now to reload a new piece of filament and, if it comes to checking the bowden tube, it says "use a new piece of filament to test". I also thought about a technique for testing the temperature but didn't found any feasible without too much equipment. I will try your idea, I like it! The only problem is, the glass transition temperature is not the same for every type (producer) of filament (as fas as i know). As much as I know the polulu drivers shut down if the temperature is too high, this leads to losing steps too for sure, but I think thermal overload differs a bit from mechanical overload in how it looks like - anyway - I will tell you as soon as I tested it @neotko: thank you! do you mean the electronic mainboard or the printbed? I also heard that too much heat can soften the filament in the bowden tube.

Hey Sander, totally right - I will add that. Thank you for the contribution! D is just a connection point, i should call it P in the future for "pressure". So, if you reach D, you continue at "Have you checked the distance between the nozzle and the printbed?" At the moment I try to understand how to distinguish between an overheated driver and losing steps. I think that's not totally corret in the chart at the moment.

Hi! Have you tried to upload the orginal firmware (without heated bed)? If, tell us if the problem persists (it is not related to the firmware then).

try to upload the orginal firmware (without heated bed) via CURA and tell us if the problem persists (if, it is not related to the firmware). Please also create a new thread for your problem, i will try to help you tomorrow

Does anyone read the thread before posting? Answer:

if the problem persists you can also take a look here https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17343-howto-flowchart-umo-extrusion-problems

How should it be the GCODE if he doesn't use GCODE (as a file via CURA)? It (also) happens if he moves the axis via the UltiController, that's the way we excluded a software reason (software on the PC at least) ;D

@worthy7777: Nice! Never saw a broken jumper before ;D Just throw it away (the broken jumper) - as said, you don't need one at this place to print via USB, but if you ever want to print without the USB cable plugged in (e.g. from SDCARD) you need a new jumper, so better order one before that's the case ;D If you are interested: If the Jumper is in, the underlying Arduino MEGA 2560 board is supplied with 12V (regulated from 19V from the power supply). The Arduino MEGA board is something like "the heart" of the electronics. That means: If you remove the Jumper it gets no more power. But it can be also powered by the USB cable, so everything is fine as long as you don't want to print without an USB cable plugged in. No problem, I'm glad I could help EDIT: Just take a look at the recycling depot, there is for sure an electronics container where you find an old PC. Look at its Mainboard and on the backside of it's DC/DVD drives. Or you just eMail the Ultimaker support

So it's not the driver! Okay i still think it may be a Jumper, but I guess you don't have any replacement - right? If you have one (from an old Motherboard, CD/DVD drive,...): Fine! If not: There is one jumper on the board which is not necessary if you print via USB, i marked it as 1 in the following picture: Now do the following (change the jumpers from the z-axis one by one): remove the jumper I marked as 1 remove the jumper MS1 on the z-axis driver replace it by the jumper marked as 1 move the z-axis 10mm and measure if it still moves 20mm instead of 10mm, try the same as above with MS2 instead of MS1 (use the jumper marked as 1 for MS12 now and the jumper that was at MS1 originally for MS1). please ensure MS3 is NOT installed and MS1/MS2 ARE. EDIT: @SandervG: this would not explain why the axis moves 20mm when you try to move 10mm using the ulticontroller, am I right?

Well, I tried it now - it works like a charm if you just desolder the MOSFET FDN340P near the Polyfuse

@anon4321: I tried what you suggested but since UGND and GND are connected internally (in the ATMEL) GND is still available on the board. I will desolder the MOSFET FDN340P

so with the switched jumpers, it comes out in the right width? both, x AND y direction? Therefore it's not the jumper? (I'm confused because you said it's "moving faster" and "not anywhere near the bed" at first) If it's not the jumper, carefully pull out the Y or X driver (the little boards with the black heatsinks) and change them with the Z driver. You just have to pull them out, there is no "trick" and... by the way: you dont have to print the robot all the time! you just need a pocket rule and do the following: Auto home (ulticontroller -> prepare) move the z-axis 10mm downwards (prepare -> move axis -> 1mm -> z) measure how much it moved (10mm/20mm) P.S.: Do you have a multimeter?

I think they meant the ARD_PWR jumper, but if you remove it the whole arduino board is no longer supplied with voltage from the power supply. You cannot print without the USB cable connected then?! Anyway, I found another solution here (where you also replied). I guess i found a more elegant solution to this problem: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6131-disabling-usb-power-because-my-memory-is-crap

I know this thread is old but I'm trying to solve the same problem a.t.m. My question is: Why have you chosen that way? Woudn't it be more easy to just desolder the MOSFET that is between the USBVCC and the +5V on the board? It will still power the ATMEGA16 this way but not the remaining board. And VIN does still power the board as before: Can anyone confirm my thoughts? (maybe @anon4321) Thanks

we all where noobs at the beginning sounds good! you have installed the jumpers as they where before, right? (as they are on the Y axis) it's very uncommon that an jumper doesn't work - but well... try to print the little robot again now. is it the right height now? if yes, go to the elctronic dump (or in your garage or wherever) and replace the jumpers by two others. if not, let us know

that's absolutely right! just skip that point so far, i upload it if you tried the rest