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gothampixel

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Everything posted by gothampixel

  1. Hey Barnacules, Welcome! The ColorFabb XT you used to print the Halo Gun looks like a white filament not the clear they sell. Did you get something special?
  2. I agree, it would be nice if it matched the most common aspect ratio of digital cameras. With the way we compose an image in camera cropping it to match a 5:3 ratio looses too much space at the top and bottom.
  3. Make your next print one of these. It's an essential tool... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34481
  4. You have fill density set to .2%, that's way too low. try 20% and see what that looks like.
  5. Print more than one at a time and spread them apart. It gives the layers more time to cool. And turn the build plate temp way down, or even off for a small print like that.
  6. Or it could be this issue http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5637-feeder-grinding-on-startup-while-plate-is-leveled-up/&do=findComment&comment=51032%20%2014.03%20Of%20April%2018%202014%2010h15min11 What Firmware are you on?
  7. This look's really interesting.... https://twitter.com/ColorFabb/status/465143178245709824/photo/1
  8. This is happening to me as well 14.03 Of April 18 2014 10h15min11 It's random enough that I can't figure it out. When I start some prints nothing comes out because the filament has been chewed up. I have to abort, change material, cut out the bad part and start over. Very wasteful...
  9. Try printing two or more at the same time. This gives the layers more time to cool without having to slow down the head. I believe increasing the layer time on small objects can make things worse by keeping the hot end over the layer for too long.
  10. I find it's a good practice to run everything you print through NetFabb first. Download the free version and run it through the steps for repairing the part, apply and export it out. Now Import that file into Cura. http://www.netfabb.com/
  11. On the printer before you start the print go into MATERIAL > SETTINGS > CUSTOMIZE. Keep all of the settings for the material you are using but change the build plate temp and then store as preset.
  12. Can anyone explain what is going on here. Why are some curves a nice sweeping line and then jagged? It really shows up in the print. The jagged path happens in between the X and Y. Hard to explain, see photos. thanks for your help
  13. my question is about when I am not there to hit the abort button. For long prints when I'm not at home I will be watching via a webcam. I have the ability to remotely shut off the power to the machine if something goes wrong. Is that ok?
  14. Is it ok to cut power on the Ultimaker 2 if and when a print starts to go bad? I setup a webcam and have the U2 plugged into an outlet that I can remotely shut off. Are there any problems with shutting it down so abruptly? live feed: http://dropc.am/p/Xi8IRr
  15. I heard something fall into the chamber in the middle of a print, I'm not sure where it came from photo: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/4628-screw-loose/ It looks like it may be one of the screws that attach the gears to the rods. What is the best way to move the printhead around when the machine is off so I can spin the rods and take a look. I don't want to force anything. Thanks Christopher.
  16. That was it, the end stop trigger on the x-axis was not being reached right away. I bent it out just a bit and that made it much better. I might need to move it a little bit more, I'm waiting for a print to finish to check. Thanks illuminarti, this kind of help is why I went with Ultimaker. I have another question but will start another topic so it will be easier to search on for others.
  17. That's why I was confused, this was a filament manufacturing company's booth at a 3D printing conference and expo. His response to my question was "our filament is 3mm, I have never heard of 2.85mm" I guess they are part of the 10% Thanks,
  18. Set up my U2 yesterday and it's working beautifully. One thing does have me concerned. At the start of every print the printer makes a really loud noise before the print head moves into position, it does it again at the end of the print when the print head moves back to its resting location. It's like the print head is trying to move in the wrong direction before it starts and then goes too far when it's done. the sound is very jarring, Is this normal? I'd rather not wake the neighbors when my prints are done. thanks, Christopher.
  19. I stopped by the Inside 3D Printing Conference today in NYC and was talking with the guys from Ninja Flex. They sell a very flexible filament in both 1.75mm and 3mm sizes. I asked if their 3mm size was true 3mm or 2.85mm with a tolerance up to 3mm. They said they never heard of the 2.85mm standard and as far as they know their filament is true 3mm. How common is 2.85 and is it going to be supported by filament makers going forward?
  20. I ordered today and got a shipping notice an hour later! No Tax outside of California. With that and getting it a month and a half earlier than expected was worth it for me. I'll be canceling my direct order soon.
  21. http://www.tridimake.com/2014/03/quick-comparison-pro-versus-low-cost.html
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