3poro

Your statement "...it must be able to..." is not accurate. It would be nice - or even important - yes, but already the "reasonably easy" would serve many people. I spent less than a minute on Google: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6548-how-to-modify-machine-a-um2-nozzle-to-08mm/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6268-tweaking-the-um2-nozzle-for-better-extrusion/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6557-help-with-drilling-out-nozzle/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3458-how-to-switch-nozzles-for-the-um2/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5643-does-this-nozzle-fits-the-um2/ I know there are dozens of other posts on the topic as well. You just need to open the can of worms

I think the comments about Dim3nsioneer's print are descriptive. One sees flaws, another goes "wow". The visions for dual extrusion vary quite a bit, as it can be used for so many different things. As Ultimaker has encountered some surprising problems, I think it would make sense to start from the very basics - as it would also help to understand what the primary expectations by Ultimaker users actually are. I, for instance, would be happy to use 2 extruders even one at the time. I'm not the only one who would like to use different nozzle sizes (see for instance http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7150-extra-ultimaker%C2%B2-nozzle/), but the UM2 nozzle is pretty tricky to change. Already having the possibility to define which extruder is used would be a good improvement for me. If Ultimaker wants to keep on developing dual extrusion to the point where everybody says it's brilliant - it will be a very long way... As some say, perfect is THE enemy of good.

My first Pt100 failed quite totally (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5431-thermocouple-failure/), so I couldn't figure out much about it... The 2nd one I opened and it looks like the soldering between the actual sensor and the wires had given up. Most solders melt (fail) at around 250C. Also, I challenge you to give links to Teflon-based insulator tapes and wire coatings which are be rated for temperatures up to 400C What I could find are rated up to 250C or 260C - which is not quite enough for the temperature sensor (when printing at 260C, which is the default for ABS). Now I have a self-made temperature probe (also Pt100) which has already lasted longer than the 2nd original Ultimaker unit I had

Daid, nallath, MartijnvG - are you still there? My UM2 had about 3 months of downtime altogether - due to two original Ultimaker Pt100 sensors failing. When I asked about details on the sensor, I got a pointer to GitHub. The 0C...400C indicated there is a very bold range, given the structure of the sensor. I see there solder, some (Teflon based?) insulator tape, PTFE coated wires etc - are they really rated up to 400C? I'm not sure the sensor is good for continuous temperature of 260C (which means the temperature gets regularly a bit over 260C).

Yes. At least my UM2 came with a glue stick. As EldRick mentioned, you don't have to reapply the glue stick on the glass very often. At some point when I ran low on the original stick, I bought these: http://www.tesa.com/consumer/products/tesa_easy_stick,c.html Works fine. The triangular shape serves me also really well. It's better to use the stick when the glass is in room temperature. If it's heated to 90-110C (like often is the case when printing ABS), the glue layer easily becomes too thick and it's not as good an adhesive anymore.

Please check the today's posts on this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6307-um2-twin-tornadoes/ Maybe you'll not face the same side effect as I did, but just in case - you probably need to control the temperature readings after installing more powerful fan(s) to make sure there are no surprises. I'm lucky I caught the issue so quickly - I can imagine myself hunting down such a problem for days (and nights)...

I don't know why the 2 Tornado fans cause a problem - is their load not purely resistive or what - but the impact on the temperature reading fluctuation is very clear. When the 2 fans are connected, the temperature on LCD varies +-10C (20C from peak to peak, approximately) - without the fans, it's barely +-1C.

Thank you for your advice - I really appreciate! The problem turned out to be caused by myself - I shouldn't have cast any doubt on firmware before investigating the root of the problem more carefully. As I have added airflow for my print head, I had ended up draining too much current from the fan output: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6307-um2-twin-tornadoes/ I added a note about the potential problem to the end of the thread. Now, after switching the fans to a separate power source, the temperature readings are steady again. Thank you again for your help. As I had already checked the system for connection problems, your messages convinced me there had to be something more fundamentally wrong.

A word of warning for anyone going for a similar hack... It seems to be easy to drain too much current from the fan output. I don't know exactly how much power consumption is too much, but the 2.8W taken by two Tornado fans did cause some headache for me: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7067-temperature-oversampling/ Now I have a completely separate power supply for the fans. The good thing is - now I can adjust their operating voltage independently.

For the past couple of months the nozzle temperature reading on my UM2 LCD has started to fluctuate much more than it used to. Now it can show temperature changes of +-10 degrees (!) within a couple of seconds. Obviously the actual temperature of the nozzle can't change that quickly. I think the situation got worse after some firmware update during the summer, but I can't be 100% sure. The problem for me is - sometimes the printer stops and gives me "ERROR - STOPPED; Temp sensor" message. This is obviously a false alarm. I found an interesting note here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin "Temperature Oversampling: To reduce noise and make the PID-differential term more useful, 16 ADC conversion results are averaged." Depending on how frequently the readings are taken, I should probably simply increase the number of results averaged. Now - how to do this in practice? I haven't yet had the need to hack my UM2 firmware, so is there some "quick-hacking for dummies" intro somewhere? What is the threshold temperature for the error above?

This is a project which pretty much made me to get into 3D printing, as I realized the necessary parts would be quite tricky to make otherwise. My goal was to get a lot of light to my room - a lot of dimmable light with good color rendering properties. Here's a photo of the result - the lights are dimmed down from maximum quite a bit: The design is intentionally very function-driven. I have had my ups and downs with my UM2 to get all the parts printed, but I'm very happy with the result. Now I just need to make more of these lights - the nights are getting darker

Very nice work! Not nearly as brutalistic as my implementation (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5921-um2-greenhouse-edition/). Your design also makes operating the front door easier than what I have - I might make a switch to your design for that part. Do you have photos on how you ended up closing the rear wall of the "dome"? I tried to figure out something for that before I gave up and extended the dome to get closer to the feeder.

I don't have experience on ceramic replacement, but I have seen Ultimaker employees writing that PLA sticks to ceramic materials _very_ efficiently. Besides friction, I would be concerned about tightness of the fit between (ceramic) isolator and the actual nozzle unit. As PTFE is slightly elastic, it makes a tight fit with the nozzle unit. My solution was to improve airflow towards the Teflon isolator: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6307-um2-twin-tornadoes/ It helped a lot. As I have also built a closed chamber for my UM2, my need for cooling the PTFE isolator was accented.

...and printed in PLA, I assume?

While I'm not actually in the mood of praising UM2 due to the problems I've been having, I'm pretty convinced the UM2 print is not made with FormFutura ABS. I have printed a lot with ABS, including FormFutura ABS. Regardless of temperature and speed, I just don't know how to reproduce the kind of surface stringing as I see on the photo. With PLA it happens easily, but with ABS - no. Can you share the gcode file you used for printing?

Really? I found this: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1185_PT100_B_sensor_(x1)/B1185-B2P-A.pdf ...but I can't really find answers to my questions. In the document it's written: "Temperature range: 0° C to 400° C" ...which really prompts the question about the materials being used.

My original knurled wheel has diameter of 7.95mm and the MK8 I ordered has precisely 1.00mm less. I don't know if PLA in warm environment under tension bends that much over time, but I have had to improvise some tightening for your feeder design twice to keep it in operation. Nothing serious. I haven't yet taken the MK8 into use, as I noticed it would require some (minor) modding of the feeder again - and I'm now running tests with new temperature sensor.

First of all, thank you for your post - it motivated me to investigate the 2nd Pt100 sensor I have lost. Both sensors I have lost after just weeks of use. I print primarily ABS, typically at 260C. With standard UM2 setup, already the 260C temperature seems to cause problems for the PTFE isolator. After I added airflow on the PTFE isolator, I haven't had such problems. As there are several Team Ultimaker members reading this thread, could one of you give details on the temperature sensor used in UM2? What are the specifications of the actual Pt100 sensor component? What kind of solder is used between the sensor component and the wires? What kind of insulator materials are used? What is the coating material of the wires? Here's my earlier post on my issue: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5431-thermocouple-failure/

My Pt100 gave up again over a month ago. I've been too busy with other projects to start investigating the problem further, but now I took the time for it. I opened the failed Pt100 (my 2nd failed sensor) and I'm not sure if it is actually suitable for temperatures occasionally exceeding 260C. The problem I had was with the solder which seemed to have melted. What kind of solder is used for the bond between the actual Pt100 sensor and the wires? Also, there is some insulation tape around the Pt100 sensor, inside the metallic (outer) sleeve of the temperature sensor head - what material is it?

Not only that. I think there are other problems also: 1) Lack of published price list; 2) Slow ordering and delivery processes; 3) Rate of errors with orders/deliveries; 4) High shipping charges; 5) High prices across the board. As examples of #5, here are some prices for Europeans (VAT included): Print Table Glass: 70 EUR (95 USD) Pt100 sensor: 45 EUR (61 USD) Stainless steel hot end isolator: 33 EUR (45 USD) I understand some parts can be complicated to produce, but I would blame the design if a nozzle block (for instance) can't be sold on decent profit for less than 84 EUR (with VAT - that's 114 USD!). If Ultimaker would rather focus on other things than making spare parts, they should publish data on their printer sales. Then 3rd parties could estimate business opportunities better and start producing and selling parts.

The license may refer to the files themselves, but not the physical parts. In other words, you can't sell the documents or turn them into "your" documents by removing all references to their origin. Some of the Ultimaker parts might be protected by some design copyright or patent, but even that would be very difficult for Ultimaker to enforce - given that they have published the drawings and underlined the "open source" nature of their product.

I paid using bank transfer. After paying, I sent them the payment receipt, but that didn't help - they actually wait for the money to arrive on their account, before shipping the goods. Prior to my order, I had ordered stuff from Ultimaker for 5000 USD. I was always charged at the time of the order - several weeks before delivery. Now, when I needed spare parts, they trusted me enough to wait for the money to actually arrive on their account. Of course, my payment receipt could have been forged and maybe I was ready to take the risk of being left without support and further spare parts and consumables. Go figure. Well said - very sad.

I don't know what Ultimaker would charge for the heater, but the nozzle, the Pt100 and the 2 isolators (stainless steel and PTFE) seem to total 147 EUR (which is precisely 200 USD). These components don't yet make an extruder. I don't think it get much better for Europe... Here, the prices above are prices without VAT - there's 21% added on top.

I know my first contribution to this topic is very creative (not), but my son does like me printing Ultimaker robots between more utilitarian prints... I'm sorry for bulky image files; here's an Ultimaker robot scaled up to be 5 times as big as the original: It's printed using Ultimaker's red ABS with 0.1mm layer height. Print speed was 75mm/s. The photos were taken without any proofing whatsoever - only the raft was removed. I'm very interested in comments on the print quality. I used my UM2 in its original form for only about 6 weeks. After those weeks Ultimaker granted me a 9-week pit stop during which I got a bit wild in tuning the thing.

From friction point of view, I don't know if straightening the filament actually helps - as it's not going to be straight in the Bowden tube in any case. In my opinion the original filament path in UM2 is not optimal as the knurled side of the filament is on the "outer track" in the Bowden tube. Furthermore, I got inconsistent results depending on how full/empty the reel was. My solution was to place the filament reel on the left side of the printer: Now the knurled side of the filament stays on the "inner track" in the Bowden tube. Also, the curve of the filament on the reel continues quite naturally after the feeder. I've been thinking about adding some extra guides for the filament, but I haven't yet seen there enough need for that.