Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

zoev89

Member
  • Content Count

    469
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

zoev89 last won the day on April 9 2016

zoev89 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

72 Excellent

1 Follower

About zoev89

  • Birthday 11/19/1963

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. zoev89

    Ultimaker Original Probleme

    Thanks for letting known that the issue is resolved. Happy printing.
  2. zoev89

    Ultimaker Original Probleme

    Maybe a suggestion. In principle the arduino is operational but does not seem to function properly. Given the fact that you have experience with arduino you could flash the device. Hoping it has incorrect firmware..
  3. zoev89

    Ultimaker Original Probleme

    I assume you have the usb cable connected to the PC. But given the fact that you don't see anything on the ulti controller and Cura does not see the micro controller I think your micro controller is not running. On linux you can use lsusb to see if it is connected to the USB bus but on windows I don't know. However I assume when you find the micro controller on the USB bus Cura can find it as well. Lets see if the ardruino gets power from your board. Here is a link of https://reprap.org/wiki/File:UltimakerPCB1.5.7.jpg On the right side you find the 12V regulator Can you measure between ground and the right hand side pin the output of IC1 the voltage. It should be 12V. Is he jumper also there ARD_PWR?
  4. zoev89

    Ultimaker Original Probleme

    Is the the micro controller board on the main board correctly pluggedin? If the microcontroller does not get power it will not identify itself on the usb.
  5. The last couple times that I was printing I noticed this burning smell but could not figure out what it was. Well yesterday my heated bed did not warm up anymore. So today I started looking in to it and found this burned connection in my printer: One of the wires got probably a little loose and running that 10A current nicely fried the connection. At least I found the stink. The electronics are still intact so with some soldering I was able to get the printer going again. I just left the connector there (too much work to remove it) Never underestimate what 240W of power can do for your heated bed.
  6. Sometimes your model gets something extra
  7. zoev89

    Post your latest print!

    Finally I have been able to finish my locomotive shed. All files are available on youmagine. Have a look at my website at: https://zoev89.github.io/locloods/index.html
  8. zoev89

    One at a time setting in Cura

    My print the bed temperature remains the same. Your hack to change to 65 for each model I guess will work but you do have to baby sit it. I would rather in that case remove the M190 commands (except the first one) from the gcode in an editor that would be less error prone...
  9. zoev89

    One at a time setting in Cura

    Even if you control the temperature from the printer the gcode contains the M190 S60 for every model start so even if you change the temperature it would at the start of each model reset the temperature to the one in the gcode. The M190 code specifies set to temperature and wait.... Actually Cura should not put this part of the startup code in for each model but only for the first. Or move the a save location (home) and then start the new model with all its settings. But that is thinking in solutions and I might be wrong.
  10. If I print with multiple objects I usually use "All at once" setting Cura. But I was printing a small object and I only needed 6 of them so I could print with "One at a time" setting. Using "One at a time" offered much better print quality since the amount of retractions was reduced by a large factor. No inner model retractions. However while printing the 3th object the printer stalled before going to the 4th object. So it left a large blob of material at the top and the wall was melted in (so basically failing that part). So I inspected the gcode but could not find anything strange. Second time printing it happened again but I knew now the print will continue so it just ruined one object. Today I made some modifications of the printed object and printed 7 of them (in the knowledge that probably 1 will fail so I ended up with the 6 that I needed). This time it stalled at going from the 2nd to the 3th, however I was able to see what was happening it was heating the bed and just waiting until the right temperature was reached (1 degree delta) so basically it could happen each time going from 1 part to the other. Now isn't there a setting in Cura that can control this behavior. Like first remove the nozzle from the printed part then set the bed temperature again (since that is in the startup profile of the part) and then start the next part. By first moving the nozzle away and then set the bed temperature would allow the printer to halt to warm-up the bed if needed. My bottom layer bed temperature is the same as for the rest just imaging what would happen if the bed temperature would be higher for the first layer... I use an ultimaker original with a home made heated bed and used Cura 2.7.1 on ubuntu.
  11. zoev89

    PLA curling on one side only

    I have auto completion on the phone
  12. zoev89

    PLA curling on one side only

    If it is airflow relatief you could print a small power software chat the had moves over the object. Or is a brim so it will not lift so easy.
  13. Hoi Rob, Een hoop vragen maar wat is nu precies het probleem? Dat de printkop met een travel move over het object loopt (subject) of is je vraag een andere. Sterkte van objecten hangt van je materiaal af wat je print maar met PLA kan je best sterke objecten maken en die hoef je niet met 100% infill te maken (materiaal vernietiging) Zeker een 9V batterij houdertje zou toch niet een groot probleem moeten zijn. Met ABS kan je layer bonding problemen hebben als je te koud print.
  14. zoev89

    Help with printing

    Did you measure your filament diameter? Could there be a significant difference. It is difficult to judge from the photo what the effect is. For under extrusion usually you see small gaps between the lines but to me it more looks like over extrusion because I can't see the small gaps but I think I see blobs of excess material.
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!