zoev89

Do you have the start and end code scripts? I tried a doodle3d as a wifi printserver on my umo it works but I always had to wait until that board was booted because it resets the printer somewhere during the boot (it was powered via the printer). So that is why I still use the SD card. The reason why ultimaker hardly supports serial printing is that it is unreliable you never know when the computer decides to do something else. The print buffer on the Marlin is very small so must have quick response from the computer. It really is frustrating to loose a x hour print because your computer decided to do something stupid for a minute. I would bet more on dedicated hardware to do it.

I had the 'luck' that it just started with the first layer of infill. So that is how I could identify it. I guess I was still 1 or 2 layers off. But I just adjusted the Z while printing that can be easily done with a UMO:)

How do you know where the printer is? In my case it only displays the layer height. And by the time I got to the print it was already N layers beyond the point of where it failed... None the less I rescued it so I did not waist any matterial...

With the help of 3dninjaprintor from thingiverse I printed a little different version for the forumslader. It is a telephone charger powered by a bicycle hub dynamo. All the files can be found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/forumslader When printing the top part my printer decided to have a knot in the filament so the extruder got stuck halfway the print. I calculated how far it got and edited the gcode to start from that location and zeroed the extruder to the right length and restarted the print. It turned out quite will. I miss calculated that layer a little so the hotend was too low but adjusting that while printing is not an issue and it turned out quite well. There is only a very thin line in the print.

CONN_2 P1 is the connection on the ultimaker board where 1 is connected to the in my case 19V and 2 is connected to the output transistor of the heater. K1 CONN_2 pin 1 would be the + 24V of the powersupply and one side of the heater cartridge pin 2 would be the return wire of the heater cartridge and pin3 would be the gnd of the 24V powersupply. Now I don't have much knowledge on the ultimaker 2 since I don't own one. The ultimaker 2 is powered by 24V so you would not need this output circuit. You can connect the 24V powersupply directly to the board. As it looks like on the schematics you would have to solder some wires to the input plug. There is no easy connector where you would be able to connect it. Your original heater was 20 ohm so it would produce 28W of power and now you are trying 4.2 ohm which would result into 137W of power. Isn't that a lot? No wonder the powersupply will shut off. I added 2 circles on the ultimaker2 layout where the 24V input should be connected. Make sure you don't create any short or connect the 24V the other way around, it could mean the end of the board! You are dealing with a 400W power supply which is a serious amount of power. By the way I also use a 400W 24V powersupply for my ultimaker umo since I also have a heated bed.

Found the schematic I used:

Hi Leonardo, First warning do not run you UMO board directly from a 24V powersupply! The board is designed to operate at 19V and one should leave it like that, If you run it from 24V you will burn the 12V regualort on the board. I don't think you need a more powerfull heater for the E3D I use the stock 24V heater from E3D but I do run that part from 24V instead of 19V. So keep you 19V powersupply and keep that connected to the UMO board, unless you by a 24V->19V stepdown converter to operate the UMO board. I added a small circuit to convert the heater output signal to a 24V heater output signal. Give me some time to dig that up because I can't find it at the moment.

Thanks for letting known that the issue is resolved. Happy printing.

Maybe a suggestion. In principle the arduino is operational but does not seem to function properly. Given the fact that you have experience with arduino you could flash the device. Hoping it has incorrect firmware..

I assume you have the usb cable connected to the PC. But given the fact that you don't see anything on the ulti controller and Cura does not see the micro controller I think your micro controller is not running. On linux you can use lsusb to see if it is connected to the USB bus but on windows I don't know. However I assume when you find the micro controller on the USB bus Cura can find it as well. Lets see if the ardruino gets power from your board. Here is a link of https://reprap.org/wiki/File:UltimakerPCB1.5.7.jpg On the right side you find the 12V regulator Can you measure between ground and the right hand side pin the output of IC1 the voltage. It should be 12V. Is he jumper also there ARD_PWR?

Is the the micro controller board on the main board correctly pluggedin? If the microcontroller does not get power it will not identify itself on the usb.

The last couple times that I was printing I noticed this burning smell but could not figure out what it was. Well yesterday my heated bed did not warm up anymore. So today I started looking in to it and found this burned connection in my printer: One of the wires got probably a little loose and running that 10A current nicely fried the connection. At least I found the stink. The electronics are still intact so with some soldering I was able to get the printer going again. I just left the connector there (too much work to remove it) Never underestimate what 240W of power can do for your heated bed.

Sometimes your model gets something extra

Finally I have been able to finish my locomotive shed. All files are available on youmagine. Have a look at my website at: https://zoev89.github.io/locloods/index.html

My print the bed temperature remains the same. Your hack to change to 65 for each model I guess will work but you do have to baby sit it. I would rather in that case remove the M190 commands (except the first one) from the gcode in an editor that would be less error prone...

Even if you control the temperature from the printer the gcode contains the M190 S60 for every model start so even if you change the temperature it would at the start of each model reset the temperature to the one in the gcode. The M190 code specifies set to temperature and wait.... Actually Cura should not put this part of the startup code in for each model but only for the first. Or move the a save location (home) and then start the new model with all its settings. But that is thinking in solutions and I might be wrong.

If I print with multiple objects I usually use "All at once" setting Cura. But I was printing a small object and I only needed 6 of them so I could print with "One at a time" setting. Using "One at a time" offered much better print quality since the amount of retractions was reduced by a large factor. No inner model retractions. However while printing the 3th object the printer stalled before going to the 4th object. So it left a large blob of material at the top and the wall was melted in (so basically failing that part). So I inspected the gcode but could not find anything strange. Second time printing it happened again but I knew now the print will continue so it just ruined one object. Today I made some modifications of the printed object and printed 7 of them (in the knowledge that probably 1 will fail so I ended up with the 6 that I needed). This time it stalled at going from the 2nd to the 3th, however I was able to see what was happening it was heating the bed and just waiting until the right temperature was reached (1 degree delta) so basically it could happen each time going from 1 part to the other. Now isn't there a setting in Cura that can control this behavior. Like first remove the nozzle from the printed part then set the bed temperature again (since that is in the startup profile of the part) and then start the next part. By first moving the nozzle away and then set the bed temperature would allow the printer to halt to warm-up the bed if needed. My bottom layer bed temperature is the same as for the rest just imaging what would happen if the bed temperature would be higher for the first layer... I use an ultimaker original with a home made heated bed and used Cura 2.7.1 on ubuntu.

I have auto completion on the phone

If it is airflow relatief you could print a small power software chat the had moves over the object. Or is a brim so it will not lift so easy.

Hoi Rob, Een hoop vragen maar wat is nu precies het probleem? Dat de printkop met een travel move over het object loopt (subject) of is je vraag een andere. Sterkte van objecten hangt van je materiaal af wat je print maar met PLA kan je best sterke objecten maken en die hoef je niet met 100% infill te maken (materiaal vernietiging) Zeker een 9V batterij houdertje zou toch niet een groot probleem moeten zijn. Met ABS kan je layer bonding problemen hebben als je te koud print.

Did you measure your filament diameter? Could there be a significant difference. It is difficult to judge from the photo what the effect is. For under extrusion usually you see small gaps between the lines but to me it more looks like over extrusion because I can't see the small gaps but I think I see blobs of excess material.

Hoi Kees, Ik heb een post op een van issues gedaan. Ik denk dat het het 0.4mm line probleem is. Groeten, Eric

Hi Kees, What is the wall thickness of the manually added support? Is it 0.4mm? In that case in Cura 1.5.4 changing the line width to 0.39 was good enough in 1.5.4 but in 2.4 it is not. In 2.4 you need to change the nozzle size to 0.38 to get walls of 0.4mm. I regulary use objects with 0.4mm lines. Regards, Eric

Could it be that it are rounding errors? When using 100% infill it needs to align the nozzle (which is 0.4mm) into that open area. My feeling is that since the area that needs to be filled is not a multiple of 0.4. Usually you don't need to worry about your object beeing multiples of 0.4mm since a head move is more exact. But if you want to fill 100% then the last path might not fit into the area left. Then the slicer has 2 options, make the path with less extrusion (over extrusion is at risk) or not print it and you have a gap. Sometimes playing with the nozzle size and compensate with flow might help in this case but it is not exact science more try and error.