zoev89
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Posts posted by zoev89
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That is a simple temporary solution. Likely the underextrusion is caused due to the longer nozzle that was cooled by the fans. None the less a great idea!
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Did you open a support ticket? If not do so. Then my second bet would be try to call them to speed things up. I had a incorrect laser cut front frame and I had a replacement front panel in 4 days (note I live in the Netherlands so postage does not take long).
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Don't know if this is your problem and not sure if this helps but add to the start code
M302 ; run extruder when cold
The extruder is protected against operating while the plastic is still solid.
This will certainly be one of the restrictions. I can run the printer when I do that when the hotend is cold.
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The outside rings are the skirt. In expert settings menu you can configure the skirt (amount of lines and distance to the object).
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It is possible to flash a firmware were 0.0 is in the middle (there is still homing involved I would guess). But if you print head bumps in the corners it is better to make a modification to the endswitches so you can home again. Otherwise you have to position it in the middle and how would you know if that is correct. If you want to print something covering the build plate you would like it to stop on the edge and not bump into it.
Glue something on the end blocks or print some adapter so you reach the end switch.
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I also tried FreeCAD it looks compelling but I could not build further on an array of objects (at that time) so there I stopped.
I use OpenScad. You need to be a programmer nerd to like it. But it gets the job done for what I am using it for. Making hierarchical draws it works well. Making rounded faces is a drag in OpenScad.
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About the heater 24V issue:
The UM2 design already uses 24V so using the E3D 24V heater is a perfect fit. The only thing is it takes 40W compared to 25W in the UM2 design. When you stick to single extruder the powersupply of the UM2 should be able to coupe with that according to Daid.
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At 100% the PWM can hardly interfere since it is on all the time...
The interference is also reduced buy using the fast pwm option which is to my knowledge default on. It is about 30Khz range PWM in fast mode if I remember correctly. I looked at the signals when I switched to 12V fans.
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@svandennekom
olafweller bedoelt direct drive voor de X Y assen niet de extruder.
Ik heb dit probleem ook gehad, geen plek waar je alles kan kopen. Ik heb de assen bij Conrad bestelt maar 1 van de assen is niet 100% recht, dus die wil ik nog vervangen..
Ik heb de couplers bij reprapuniverse gekocht.
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Ik heb een stuk XT liggen maar ben nog niet aan toe gekomen om in te zetten. En om zomaar wat mee te printen vind ik ook niet goed. Dus bij toepassing en tijd ja maar helaas nog geen ervaring. Gezien de statements van colorfabb zou de E3D hier zeer geschikt voor moeten zijn.
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> causes it to be printed offset until the endstops are hit.
I guess that is what has happened to me a couple of times. And since the right and back endstops are software in my case it just bangs the sides (only have the homing endstops).
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Welkom op het forum.
Ik denk als je de juiste electro skills hebt kan je ver komen. Je zal een custom Marlin software moeten hebben. Misschien kan je deze config vinden op
http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/
Dat maakt het dan weer makkelijker. Een andere optie is de thermocoupler + print op de printhead van de UMO gebruiken.
Ik zie dat je in Eindhoven zit ik zit in Waalre PM maar. Ik heb een UMO met een E3D V6.
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A honest answer I have not seen quality differences between before E3D and after. Note the default hotend of the UMO is a good hotend so it is nice that the E3D can get there as well. The difference is when using high temperatures after printing at 260 for some time my teflon was deformed. I don't have that issue any more. But I have a new one. I print with PLA at the moment and I see when I use colorfab filament that I have more friction in the heatsink leading to underextrusion. The way to solve that is 1 drop of sunflower oil per about 12 hours of printing. When I set the retraction to 2.5mm I have not seen a single clog with PLA so that is good.
I did some ABS prints at 260 so I don't have experiences with 260+. I do warn you the default thermistor in the E3D can get to 295 or something like that so if you go often to 260+ you might want to invest in a thermocoupler. One person here on this forum used the UMO thermocoupler, took it appart and inserted it in the heaterblock.
Did you ever consider using XT material?
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I am using the same mount. It mounts the E3D nicely the fans configuration is nice and compact. Only the left fan is a little close to the heater. The height of the fans is good. Please note the fans a 4x4cm versions unlike the 5x5cm version on the original so you have to buy 4x4cm fans. I have to reduce the amount of cooling with my fans since at 100% it blows away all the dust but also causes the bottom of the nozzle to be too cold. I run PLA with 40% fan. I operate the fans with a separate 12V.
To increase the amount of room on the left fan I just made the holes a little bigger. Note you have to remove the left fan if you want change the nozzle or need to tighten it.
The 3cm fan of the E3D is very loud but I guess you know that already.
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How much infill did you use? I usually use 20% but I am priniting at 0.1mm layer hight.
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I have also seen that, when you stop you have to wait until it actually stops (buffer runout as you also have seen in the code) and if you stop again (being inpatient) the head crashes into the sidewall so you quickly powercycle.
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Please note that heating the build chamber might cause problems with the stepper motors, they get very hot.
For large objects I would also consider XT material since shrinkage is less of a problem compared to ABS. I have printed large area ABS objects but they were not high so the shrinkage problem was reduced. I also saw a video of somebody printing large arm like structures and he designed holes in the vertical wall. The holes effectively reduce the shrinkage problem. Just a thought for designing parts for ABS.
If you go for high temperature heated build room you might bump into other problems with the extruder or the hotend, the ptfe tube will not like it.
Optimizing the printer for large ABS parts is not a simple task.
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Is dit de eerste laag? Als dat het geval is dan is de leveling niet goed en zit de nozzle te dicht op het bed. Gebruik een papiertje om tussen de nozzle en bed te schuiven bij een koude nozzle. Als er wat rommel ontstaat op de eerste laag is dat meestal niet zo'n groot probleem in de volgende lagen word dat wel opgelost. Zijn de bobbels erg groot dan kan het gebeuren dat het onderdeel los komt.... Je krijgt bij dit soort bobbels meestal wel een print eruit en het patroon aan de onderkant is dan wat rommelig.
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What is the thickness of the first layer? Is 0.1mm or is it 0.3mm. I would use 0.3mm as first layer. In that case the leveling is less critical.
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That power extender looks like a reasonable deal. The mosfet is optically isolated so no worries there and a low 7mOhm on resistance. Just check the temperature when testing on your 300W bed. At 12A it will dispate about 1W so it will get warm but likely within spec.
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You also might want to print multiple objects (2 or 3) at the same time to allow some cooling time.
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235-240 is quite low for ABS. As you already noticed you get layer adhesion problems. I print black um abs at 260. As for your artifacts I don't have suggestions. Am I reading it correctly you print with 0.3mm layer height. In that case 50mm/s is quite fast. I have not been able to print that fast but that might be my lack of skills.
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Good post processing job to get all the connection scars removed. Nice to see how it was printed.
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This is my line of thinking:
A little slag in the belts or a slight wobble in the pulleys can explain the differences. When you have 1 or 2 objects close
together then the probability of printing in a trouble zone is small. But if you fill the bed then there will be areas that are good and bad. Your photo also shows correctly printed parts not all of them have the same artifacts.
Model blijft niet goed vastzitten op bouwplaat met Pritt
in Nederlands
Posted
Mijn ervaringen zonder pritt zijn niet zo goed. Ik maak de plaat schoon met spiritus maar de hechting is niet super. Gisteravond was ik strips aan het printen van 2x2x230mm en die lieten zonder brim toch aan het einde los bij een temperatuur van 70 graden. Heb een keer op 75 gezet maar dan is het plastic te zacht en laat ook los. Toch maar weer even met pritt ingesmeerd en uitgesmeerd met kwast met wat water. Op 60 graden prima adhesion niets los laten aan de randen. Weet niet waarom zonder pritt het bij mij niet vast wil blijven zitten. Er zitten wel flink wat krassen in mijn glas.